Showing off some leather (pic heavy)

I haven't been around very regularly lately, but I thought I'd share some pics of what's been occupying my time these days.



This one was for a friend's Glock 21 with a "clipdraw" attachment.






To be continued...

Wes

 

And some more...









Wes

 

Dang tasty. I'd like to see some more pics of that HP also.

 

Like.

 

Very nice.

 

nice

 

You have wonderful skills. That looks like pretty heavy duty gear.

 

Nice. What brand and weight of leather is that? Also what dye did you use? I've been thinking of doing a black holster and dying it with vinagaroon dye. The tooling looks awesome! Nice work!

 

Thanks for the kind words, folks.

My pleasure.

The leather is Hermann Oak 7/8oz. The dye is Fiebing's Pro Oil Black. I haven't messed around with vinegaroon yet. It's more of a chemical process than a dye -- it actually causes the leather itself to turn black. If you don't correctly return the leather to a neutral pH after the process is complete, it can ruin the leather.

Perhaps I'll try it someday, but until then, I've been very happy with Fiebing's Pro Oil series.

Wes

 

That's some pretty fine hide bendin' right there. Very nice.

 

What are those blue colored grips? Ratlesnake skin, or lizard skin, dyed blue? Some other reptile?

Bob Wright

 

Very nice leather work.
How much time do you invest in each one?

 

They're actually gray/black G10 composite, the lighting in those pics does make it look sort of bluish, though. They're available at Mil-Tac Knife & Tool.

If it's a pattern that I've already made, I can usually have it cut, stitched, molded, and dried in 2 days. Dye takes another day, and the acrylic finish takes 2 or 3 days, generally.

It would go much faster if I didn't stitch by hand, but leather sewing machines cost a lot of money.

Wes

 

Beautiful work. Well done.

 

Beautiful work. I'm really impressed with the sharp lines - both front and especially back - of the HP's contours you've boned into the leather. Meticulous attention to detail! Well done.

 

Nice work, I'd like to pick you brain a little some time. Here is some of mine, feel free to offer suggestions.

 

I certainly don't consider myself an expert, but I'd be happy to share what I've learned.

A couple thing that really help: use an edge creaser/groover to mark the outer stitch line, and use pencil to mark the stich lines along the top and bottom edges of the gun. Then use an overstitch wheel to mark where to put your stitch holes.

Are you drilling or punching the holes for the stitches?

Wes

 

I do both depending on the thickness of the leather. When I drill I use the smallest bit I can, I use a flat chisel when I punch them.

Just ordered a grover and edge beveler. I do use an over stitch wheel to mark for holes.

What do you use for needles and thread?

 

Also, look into getting an awl with a diamond-shaped blade. It's the only thing I've found that gives the stitching a chance of looking good. The awl doesn't remove any material, and the hole will close around the stitch. With practice, it will also give you that machine-like zig-zag pattern, too.

For holsters, the small blade is what you need. I have bent an awl blade before on REALLY stiff leather, so I prefer the ones that let you change blades.

One of my best investments was this book. Not only does it teach how to make your stitching look really good, it's also probably the fastest method.

I just use no-frills saddlery needles, size 000. For thread, I have tried several different kinds. I like nylon better than polyester. I haven't messed with natural fibers like linen... it has shown to be inferior to polyester and nylon in every regard (strength, rot resistance, etc.). CCW holsters probably don't need the strength, but they do need rot resistance.

This thread is some of the best stuff I've encountered. It's given me some great results.

I've got a major migraine this morning, so I'm having trouble keeping a train of thought. But if you have more questions, please feel free to ask.

Wes

 

I've been using mostly stuff available from hobby lobby and learning a lot but the leather pretty much sucks but its cheap to learn with. I'm going to order that book as soon as I have some cash. I would like to get to a point where I can sell some of my work.

ETA: Do you do any videos? I have a channel and do some leather work but mostly gun stuff. Fatmantolly is the channel if you're interested.

 

I haven't seen what kind of leather stuff Hobby Lobby carries (in fact, I never even knew they did!), but I've found that most leather out there is pretty crappy. Just about anything you get from Tandy will suck also. Their Royal Meadow leather is pretty decent, but happens to cost more than Hermann Oak and Wickett & Craig, which are both about as good as it gets.

It's good to learn on cheaper leather. I still do my prototyping on less expensive stuff... it makes more sense to make your mistakes on 3.99/sq-ft leather than Hermann Oak, which costs 3 or 4 times more.

However, once you've got the basics down, that cheaper leather can hold you back. Example: I made one holster out of cheaper leather, then 2 days later I made my first one with Hermann Oak... it looked like I had gained 6 months of experience between the two. That first picture I posted? Those were my first 2 holsters made with Hermann Oak. Good leather plays a huge part in making your work look good.

I don't have any videos. Even if I had the stuff to make and edit videos, I don't know who would watch them. I'll check out your channel, though.

Wes

 

I watch a lot of leather working videos. I found that my cell phone takes better video than my camera. Editing software is built into windows. I appreciate any criticism as well.

 

BHPshooter, I just ordered the book you recommended. Thanks.

 

No problem! Feel free to message me if you ever have any questions. There are also a TON of folks who can help you out on the Leatherworker.net forums.

Wes

 

Post # 1, image on the left..

I like it. But for ssome of us whose manly body profile leans more to pear shaped and 'squishy'.

That said, a taller fat tab, (AKA 'sweat tab'), would be a good thing. As would a 'wing' of sorts that'd prevent the bottom of the leather from pinching the rt. cheek when seating.

Hopefully my comment is read in the spirit that was intended.

salty