I have a 1892 Winchester that was in a house that caught fire, there was no damage to the wood but the action is frozen. This occurred 20 something years ago when I was a kid. The other guns function fine, only the action if frozen on the Winchester. I have tried applying WD-40 and other oils to loosen the action, but to no avail. There rifle is relatively rust free. The gun was partially disassembled by my Grandfather, who did not have any luck and then sat in a box for 20 years. I have a take down guide and have not been able to finish disassembling the gun. Any help would be appreciated.
Siezed up 1892 Winchester
- Thread starter Tracy2827
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Kp321
Member
+1 on the Kroil. Might try cutting the Kroil with acetone for better penetration. Win 92's have some very close clearances that takes time for the oil to penetrate.
The advice about penetrants is good, but might not be enough.
Look at the manual and study the action to try to understand the action and the way it should work. Once you are sure that using some force won't harm the gun, you might be able to use a plastic mallet and perhaps a brass bore rod to unseize the action. For example, you might be able to get the bolt open using a brass rod down the barrel and tapping it lightly to push the bolt open. But if you have not freed up the locking blocks and gotten them out of the way, either by pulling down on the lever or by moving them another way, force applied to the bolt can damage the bolt.
Jim
Look at the manual and study the action to try to understand the action and the way it should work. Once you are sure that using some force won't harm the gun, you might be able to use a plastic mallet and perhaps a brass bore rod to unseize the action. For example, you might be able to get the bolt open using a brass rod down the barrel and tapping it lightly to push the bolt open. But if you have not freed up the locking blocks and gotten them out of the way, either by pulling down on the lever or by moving them another way, force applied to the bolt can damage the bolt.
Jim
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
+1
You can pound on it with a rod down the barrel till heck freezes over.
But if the twin locking blocks are not moved down in the receiver to disengage the bolt?
It is never going to come open without destroying it.
rc
You can pound on it with a rod down the barrel till heck freezes over.
But if the twin locking blocks are not moved down in the receiver to disengage the bolt?
It is never going to come open without destroying it.
rc
Win1892
Member
I hope it's not loaded.
Win 1892
I should have added this the other night. The hammer is removed, the trigger is removed and loading gate. When I remove the breech pin the lever will come down slightly, however, I the screw in the breech lugs is not totally accessible. I am not really worried about the metal annealing, because there is some movement and the wood does not have smoke damage. I have the action soaking in a mixture of kerosene, motor oil, and Marvel mystic oil. Hopefully that will work.
I should have added this the other night. The hammer is removed, the trigger is removed and loading gate. When I remove the breech pin the lever will come down slightly, however, I the screw in the breech lugs is not totally accessible. I am not really worried about the metal annealing, because there is some movement and the wood does not have smoke damage. I have the action soaking in a mixture of kerosene, motor oil, and Marvel mystic oil. Hopefully that will work.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
I have no idea what you are taking about.
As far as I know, there is no possible way to get the hammer out of a 92 without removing the whole lower tang first.
And I don't have a clue what a breech pin is??
Or what 'I the screw in the breech lugs is not totally accessible'?
Could you post some picks of where you're at on disassembly??
rc
When I wrote:
I wasn't kidding. Stop fooling around, get some Kroil and soak the action in it.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Good idea to get it apart, maybe?
Bad idea if you ever want to shoot it again.
Heating it hot enough to do any good, and dunking it in cold water will harden the receiver and locking blocks glass hard and it will come apart like a grenade if fired again.
Bolts & nuts used in plumbing are not high-carbon heat-treated steel, and heating them smoking hot and quenching them in cold water will make them no weaker or harder then they already were.
For that matter, if the springs in the OP's gun are annealed from the fire already and soft?
The heat threated parts are already ruined and it will not be safe to shoot.
rc
Bad idea if you ever want to shoot it again.
Heating it hot enough to do any good, and dunking it in cold water will harden the receiver and locking blocks glass hard and it will come apart like a grenade if fired again.
Bolts & nuts used in plumbing are not high-carbon heat-treated steel, and heating them smoking hot and quenching them in cold water will make them no weaker or harder then they already were.
For that matter, if the springs in the OP's gun are annealed from the fire already and soft?
The heat threated parts are already ruined and it will not be safe to shoot.
rc
Clark
Member
If I had a family heirloom Win 92, [and there are no guns that good in MY family] that no one could get apart, I would take it to a wise old gunsmith and have HIM take it apart.
351 WINCHESTER
Member
If there was no damage to the wood I don't see how the metal was affected. Like the post above said, take it to a wise old gunsmith. We have one here that's in his 80's and he still does not need glasses, but he's slow as molasses in January.
Kernel
Member
Did you take the mag tube off? With that out of the way it would help you to see a little better what's going on in there.
Any chance a round cooked-off while the action wasn't fully closed? That might lock it up.
Any chance a round cooked-off while the action wasn't fully closed? That might lock it up.
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