Sig 229 Take Down Help!

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rjohnson4405

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We bought an armorer's video from MidwayUSA for Sig series disassembly, etc. CWWeapons produces the video. The roll pins in the slllide that holds in the breech block have been impossible to get out even with the hammer and punch they recommend. We have tried it in two guns. Any ideas besides penetrating oil?

Thanks
rjohnson4405
 
These pins are reputed to be very tight. Heat is not an option, obviously. A highly penetrative agent like AeroKroil might help; it can't hurt. What are you using to hold and support the slide against the hammer blow? You want something that will not bend or otherwise absorb the blows, but it also must be non-marring, -crushing or -distorting. (For this reason I would be leery of trying to hold the slide in a vise.) Perhaps a piece of wood, with a small hole in it to allow the pin to come out and set on a sturdy bench or floor, might work. Brownells has a nylon block that should be good for this.

I might mention (whistle;)) that this kind of detail stripping is to replace faulty parts or if the whole gun falls in a mud puddle or something, not a routine procedure. Also, Brownells has a "hot line" - either by e-mail or phone - for gunsmithing questions.
 
Yeah, it was just for fun and to change out a wolff firing pin spring I had out of curiosity. We have the block with the hole in it like you said.
Thanks, anyone else?
 
A P229, having the machined stainless steel slide, should have a solid pin, not the dual telescoping roll pins of the stamped slide models. (I've actually had this older style back out by itself after much shooting.) I believe it also has a convex shape to it and it would be best to use a concave-tipped punch if available, so as not to skid off and reduce the force of the blow, not to mention dinging the slide.
 
Oop's the roll pin thing threw me off in the original post. The pin in the 229 is tapered and a crush fit. You can see the splines on the larger end (left side with the pistol pointed away). So it needs to be driven out from the opposite side. A short cupped tip punch (as The Lone Haranguer recommends) might help start it out. Rumor is SIG has a monster press to remove/install them. Someone on the SIG forum used a modified arbor press with good results.
Regards,
Greg
 
We looked for a tool too, but to no avail. We'll keep trying. The video said we could drive it out from either end, but we'll try driving it out from the right if you say so. I tried from the left originally.
 
No, see above:

rjohnson4405:
Yeah, it was just for fun and to change out a wolff firing pin spring I had out of curiosity. We have the block with the hole in it like you said.
Thanks, anyone else?
Click to expand...

Not malfunctioning but I like to take my guns fully down (except trigger groups) and understand them and put them back together cleaned. Plus it's used and has been in very wet conditions a couple times and I'd like to take a look inside, clean, and put some light oil on.

Does it need it? Probably not, but if it ever does I'd like to have the learning curve out of the way.
 
Sigs are unusual in that the sights need to be removed right to left rather than the usual left to right that most pistols use. Same with the pins.
The breech block pin is quite substantial and needs a good solid blow to start it moving. If the hammer blow does not move the pin it tends to "peen" the pin in place and make it that more difficult to move. Same if you try to move the pin from the left side and drive the splined end further into the slide.

Try this:

1. Use Kroil on the pin and let it sit for a few days.
2. Use a pin punch that fits the size and shape of the right side of the pin.
3. Use a hammer heavy enough to give a solid blow - lighter hammers will peen the pin rather than move it.
4. Use a solid backing to that there is no bounce and the force is directed onto the pin.

We use a lead block in the shop to position the slide and use a 16 oz. ball peen hammer on stubborn pins. The lead gives a "dead" blow on the pin. Do not need a hole in the block as the end of the pin will just dent the soft lead. After it starts to move use a conventional nylon block with holes to remove the pin.
 
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