Is this http://www.amazon.com/BREECH-LOCK-CHALLENGER-PRESS-90588/dp/B00162TBTM/ref=pd_sbs_sg6 the same as http://www.amazon.com/CLASSIC-SINGLE-STAGE-PRESS-90998/dp/B000KK93DA I know they are different but do they do the same thing, I'm trying to start reloading but I'm trying to go a on the cheep side to be positive I will like it.
single stage press?
- Thread starter Lambkhop
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you will want the breech lock it makes a huge difference.. but you can order a complete reloading kit from cabelas for like 100.00.. they call it the lee aniversary kit.. I started with that several years back and have slowly upgraded, but I do not regret the purchase...
I have the breech lock, but in the kit the came with the scale, prime etc. No complaints. I like not having to screw in the dyes, and the kit came with 3 bushings (I don't use the FCD). I also like priming off the press. I was a new reloader and started with this kit. Now I am a noice reloader, and still use it for all my reloading.
I would highly recommend ording from factory sales. Great service, cheap and very fast shipping. Lot's of bang for the buck!
https://factorysales.com/html/xcart/catalog/anivers.html
I would highly recommend ording from factory sales. Great service, cheap and very fast shipping. Lot's of bang for the buck!
https://factorysales.com/html/xcart/catalog/anivers.html
Lost Sheep
Member
Challenger vs Classic Cast
The Challenger Breech-lock is cast aluminum. The Classic Cast Breech-lock is cast iron.
The aluminum is lighter and cheaper, adequately rigid and will last a lifetime.
The cast iron is heavier, more expensive equally or perhaps more rigid and will last a lifetime even if you abuse it a little.
Either will do you proud.
Do get The ABC's of Reloading (no load data, but lots of education) and Lyman's excellent manual as well as Lee's Modern Reloading. Regular loading manuals have their early chapters devoted to "How To" stuff, later chapters devoted to load data and then more miscellaneous stuff like external ballistics and such.
Good Luck
The Challenger Breech-lock is cast aluminum. The Classic Cast Breech-lock is cast iron.
The aluminum is lighter and cheaper, adequately rigid and will last a lifetime.
The cast iron is heavier, more expensive equally or perhaps more rigid and will last a lifetime even if you abuse it a little.
Either will do you proud.
Do get The ABC's of Reloading (no load data, but lots of education) and Lyman's excellent manual as well as Lee's Modern Reloading. Regular loading manuals have their early chapters devoted to "How To" stuff, later chapters devoted to load data and then more miscellaneous stuff like external ballistics and such.
Good Luck
Hondo 60
Member
Lyman's 49th Reloading Handbook is the best manual on the market.
It has a GREAT how-to section & 1,000's of reloading data for all different kinds of bullets.
The bullet mfgs only publish data for their own bullets.
& I don't use brand name bullets because they're too expensive.
So the Hornady, Nosler, Sierra & Speer.... manuals are pretty much worthless to me.
It has a GREAT how-to section & 1,000's of reloading data for all different kinds of bullets.
The bullet mfgs only publish data for their own bullets.
& I don't use brand name bullets because they're too expensive.
So the Hornady, Nosler, Sierra & Speer.... manuals are pretty much worthless to me.
SASS#23149
Member
IMHO,I"d get the cast press over the aluminum press with breech locks.YOu'll be doing your cases in batches,so you only change dies 3 or 4 times no matter if u do 100 or 1000 rounds.Takes less than a minute to change dies,and the cast iron presses make the sizing operation soooo much easier.
If you are using Lee dies with the o-ring lock rings, you may find the breech lock more user friendly. You set the die and jam the lock ring against the breech lock bushing. The die will then maintain its setting.
Another option is to buy replacement lock rings with a clamping feature, either a split ring or a set screw.
A third option is to drill and tap the Lee rings for a set screw. Place a lead shot under the set crew to protect the threads.
A fourth option is to install two Lee lock rings on the die and jam them together in position. Trouble here is the die may not be long enough to hold two lock rings and you still need to buy more lock rings. I have done this on occasions to save money when I replaced the lock ring on my Lee dies and had copious quantities of Lee lock rings in inventory.
A fifth option is to get a Lee turret press and a turret for each cartridge that you pan to load. The lock ring can be jammed against the turret. Change turrets to change cartridges. Get the cast iron turret press if you get a Lee turret press.
Regardless what Lee says about removing and reinstalling their lock rings without upsetting the adjustment, it just does not work reliably. Not if, but when you upset the adjustment it will be at those times you will forget to check the die setting and process a bunch of brass improperly. The lock ring needs to be locked in place, not held by an o-ring.
It is interesting that Lee has introduced a breech lock bushing with a split ring attached for locking the die in position.
My opinion and my experience using Lee dies. Others will most certainly disagree.
Another option is to buy replacement lock rings with a clamping feature, either a split ring or a set screw.
A third option is to drill and tap the Lee rings for a set screw. Place a lead shot under the set crew to protect the threads.
A fourth option is to install two Lee lock rings on the die and jam them together in position. Trouble here is the die may not be long enough to hold two lock rings and you still need to buy more lock rings. I have done this on occasions to save money when I replaced the lock ring on my Lee dies and had copious quantities of Lee lock rings in inventory.
A fifth option is to get a Lee turret press and a turret for each cartridge that you pan to load. The lock ring can be jammed against the turret. Change turrets to change cartridges. Get the cast iron turret press if you get a Lee turret press.
Regardless what Lee says about removing and reinstalling their lock rings without upsetting the adjustment, it just does not work reliably. Not if, but when you upset the adjustment it will be at those times you will forget to check the die setting and process a bunch of brass improperly. The lock ring needs to be locked in place, not held by an o-ring.
It is interesting that Lee has introduced a breech lock bushing with a split ring attached for locking the die in position.
My opinion and my experience using Lee dies. Others will most certainly disagree.
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