I bought a sks several months ago. It shoots very well at 50 yds; although the shells do not self eject. I have to manually pull the bolt back. I did not shoot this particular rifle until after the warranty for returns was up. A month later he lost his FFL for legal reasons by the ATF. It is a 59/66 yugo. Can I still use it for a walking stick, or can I fix it myself, for a reasonable price.
sks can i fix it for less than a new one, or trash it
- Thread starter chrisbob
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trickyasafox
Member
honestly, it sounds like the gas valve is turned off. try turning it back on. if that doesnt do it, a new gas valve is about 12 bucks shipped 
heypete
Member
That really depends on what's wrong with it. If it's a simple broken or missing part, it can be readily and easily replaced with one from Tapco.com or some other source.
That said, if it's a Yugo 59/66, is the gas system turned on or off? If you look at the front of the handguard where the gas system comes up off the barrel, there should be a little switch. Be sure to push it in, and then rotate it to the right (as you're looking down the gun toward the muzzle). This will turn it on and allow it to shoot in semi-auto mode.
If the gas system is turned off, as it's suposed to be when launching grenades with the built-in grenade launcher, it'll only shoot single shot, which seems to be the problem you describe.
That said, if it's a Yugo 59/66, is the gas system turned on or off? If you look at the front of the handguard where the gas system comes up off the barrel, there should be a little switch. Be sure to push it in, and then rotate it to the right (as you're looking down the gun toward the muzzle). This will turn it on and allow it to shoot in semi-auto mode.
If the gas system is turned off, as it's suposed to be when launching grenades with the built-in grenade launcher, it'll only shoot single shot, which seems to be the problem you describe.
Preacherman
Member
Chrisbob, check the gas system. Don't be guided by the "expanded" cases - all cases do that when fired, to at least some extent. I would guess that your gas system is turned off, and by simply turning it on, you'll fix the problem. If you aren't sure how to do this, take the gun to a dealer who knows what he's talking about. It's a two-second fix. If the part is broken, it's cheap to replace.
cracked butt
Member
Make sure the gas valve is in the right position, make sure you have all of the gas sysem parts and installed correctly. If none of this solves the problem, replace the gas valve.
Worst case scenario is that you have a defacto bolt action rifle that didn't cost much.
Worst case scenario is that you have a defacto bolt action rifle that didn't cost much.
gas valve
i have checked all of the gas valve parts carefully. The button, on the interior is very pitted, so is the return rod, and the gas exchange port. Do I need to replace the the chamber, or barrel? Either of the the two will cost more than a parts kit, or buying another one.
i have checked all of the gas valve parts carefully. The button, on the interior is very pitted, so is the return rod, and the gas exchange port. Do I need to replace the the chamber, or barrel? Either of the the two will cost more than a parts kit, or buying another one.
heypete
Member
Hmm. Although it's not likely related, I'd have the gun examined by a gunsmith to see if the pitting would be an issue. Just for safety's sake. Either that, or buy replacement parts from a place like Tapco. Always a good idea to have spare parts, and having extra gas pistons, springs, etc. can never hurt.
It's not likely that you'll need to change the chamber or the barrel, unless the gunsmith recommends it. Most barrels can take many tens of thousands of rounds of firing before becoming worn out, and the SKS is no exception. Since you've said the gun fires, that doesn't seem to be the problem.
You say you've checked the gas valve parts carefully, which is good. But did you ensure that the gas valve is in the proper position (at a 45 degree angle to the right), as opposed to being vertical? If you can extend or retract the grenade sight without it being hung up on the gas valve button, then the valve is not in the proper position.
Nick1911
Member
Please listen to what others are saying.
Does your valve look like this, in the 'closed' position?
Then move it to the open position, by pushing it down and turning it in the direction of the white arrow.
Does your valve look like this, in the 'closed' position?
Then move it to the open position, by pushing it down and turning it in the direction of the white arrow.
Technosavant
Member
If the valve itself is pitted, I would get a new valve to keep on hand anyway. They aren't that expensive, and that valve is very often the cause of this problem. I doubt pitting on the gas or operating pistons would cause this, but they might (I wouldn't order those parts until the valve didn't fix it.
As for the valve position, if you can raise the grenade sight, then the valve is closed. When it's set to the semiauto position, it blocks raising that ladder sight.
As for the valve position, if you can raise the grenade sight, then the valve is closed. When it's set to the semiauto position, it blocks raising that ladder sight.
DMK
Member
I agree with the pitted gas valve being the most likely problem. I had a 59/66 that had the same problem. It was a bolt action until a new valve from Numrich fixed it 100%.
Also make sure that the gas piston doesn't bind up in it's tube. I had that keep a FAL from cycling once. There is an 'oprod' (a smaller piston type thing) under the rear sight. Make sure it's not stuck. You flip the little lever that you unlock to remove the gas tube all the way forward to remove it. Put it back in without the spring and make sure it moves freely, then re-assemble it correctly with the spring again.
Also make sure that the gas piston doesn't bind up in it's tube. I had that keep a FAL from cycling once. There is an 'oprod' (a smaller piston type thing) under the rear sight. Make sure it's not stuck. You flip the little lever that you unlock to remove the gas tube all the way forward to remove it. Put it back in without the spring and make sure it moves freely, then re-assemble it correctly with the spring again.
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