More info on cleaning the S&W Model 1000 black goo etc.
Old thread, but since I found it looking for info on *my* Model 1000, I thought I should post what I know from first-hand experience and from my recent research.
I just bought one of these, used (of course) in great looking condition. Actually, my wife bought it (yea!) and I 'cleaned' it for her before her first outing with it. Unfortunately, the gun has some problems that you might encounter if you buy one used. Having said that, the quality of manufacture on this gun is just amazing, and the design of everything, from the stock, to the trigger group, thru to the bolt, barrel, and gas operating action, is just phenominal. Much thought and careful work went into making everything fit together with great precision and straightforward simplicity that bespeak of an informed and enlightened designer. I hate to say it, but the Japanese obsession with quality is quite evident in every detail.
The first problem I encountered has to do with the Piston Shock Absorber. Apparently, the rubber material used to make this part was susceptible to the usual gun cleaning solvents in use back in the late 70s/early 80s when this gun was in production. There were no "synthetic safe" versions of popular gun sprays, as there were no polymer guns yet (at least, not in widespread use AFAIK). So, when folks cleaned the gas piston system, at the fore end of the magazine tube, they ended up melting their piston shock absorber washer and the goo ran down into the magazine tube, gumming up the works. Some of it ended up near the front of the tube in my gun, causing the piston to not slide so freely as it should. The result is FTEs and FTFs.
Cleaning it out is described in an article at Brownells, here:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=10571/guntechdetail/Quick_Fix_For_A_Mossberg_1000. The Mossberg 1000 they show in the article, and the S&W 1000 that I have, are identical.
For what its worth, I used ChemTool B-12 Gas Treatment as a solvent to clean out the gunk, dipping a 12 ga mop in it and swabbing the tube from both ends (leaving the magazine follower in the tube, but removing everything else, eg, spring, retaining clip, etc). It works great! and it's cheap.
Secondly, you might need to replace the melted shock absorber. I just went to the hardware store, bought a 1 foot length of heavy-duty black rubber hose of the right diameter (drain hose? Not sure but it looks "tough"). The hose should OD at about .900-.920 inches. Then cut a nice 0.2 inch length of hose, and use that for the replacement washer. Works great!
Thirdly, my gun came with a missing ejector! The ejector just drops in, between the bolt and the receiver, on the left side of the receiver. I think the previous owner forgot to put it back after the last cleaning. Duh! I have a part on order from LSG Mfg., Inc.
http://www.lsgmfg.com/. We'll see how she works when the part comes back.
Lastly, about that pesky capacity reducing pin.... Yes, you can drift it out. Best idea is to use a roll pin punch (the ones with the little dimple bump at the end, to keep them centered on a roll pin you want to drift out). Don't hit it from the split end side of the pin. Hit it from the dimpled end. It will come out, but it takes more whacking than the other, very nice, precisely made drift pins elsewhere in the gun (eg, trigger group, gas piston)
So, if you find one of these at your gun show or gun shop, and you are attracted to the nice way it swings and points, do pull back the bolt and look for the ejector present, and take the forearm off and look carefully thru the slots in the mag tube for evidence of melted black rubber goo...
Happy Shooting!
--JoGusto
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Glock 19
CZ 75 SP-01 Phantom
Benelli M4
S&W Model 1000
Hi-Standard HSA-15
Ruger MkIII678 slab-side competition
Marlin 795
