So does this seating depth seem okay for 38 special?
- Thread starter gfanikf
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ColtPythonElite
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Seat and crimp in cannelure and work up a load from the minimum charge and don't worry about it.
billybob44
Contributing Member
Right On...
1.475" that your caliper is reading is the EXACT length listed in the Hodgdon Data for a 158gr. SWC, in .38Spl.
I would give them a good roll crimp+get to shooting...Bill.
1.475" that your caliper is reading is the EXACT length listed in the Hodgdon Data for a 158gr. SWC, in .38Spl.I would give them a good roll crimp+get to shooting...Bill.
Okay, it does actually seem to be right along the cannalure...well the part of the bullet painted blue. Definitely starting in the minimum, I want some nice light loads for shooting my Colt Cobra, no wrist breakers...and besides +P isn't good in the long run for the gun anyway.
I would give them a good roll crimp+get to shooting...Bill.
Awesome!
That said I can't get crimping figured out that well, but that just means watch some more youtube videos and read some more. I just can't visually tell what the hell even happened with the die! Lol
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beatledog7
Member
Seat to the middle of the cannelure, if there's a cannelure, and give them a little roll crimp. The right OAL for cannelured bullets is determined that way and no other way.
As posted, crimp into the crimp groove and whatever OAL that comes out to is the proper OAL for that brass length and bullet. Start low and work up. It is rare when this method will not fit a cylinder. The bullet makers want the product to work. But of course, as posted, the max OAL is determined by the cylinder.
Thank you the picture is quite useful. That's actually where I was trying to seat the bullet, though admittedly it was more trying get a number initially. When I did get it, it just looked so spot on perfect I just went for a calipers. I need to do a little readjusting (I moved the die from my hand press to my turret press.As posted, crimp into the crimp groove and whatever OAL that comes out to is the proper OAL for that brass length and bullet. Start low and work up. It is rare when this method will not fit a cylinder. The bullet makers want the product to work. But of course, as posted, the max OAL is determined by the cylinder.
I'm more of a visual learner and for the life of me, even though I set the die up as the Lee video explains, I can't see any difference for the life of me (granted it was late and I may have just missed it). So the picture above helps a lot. I assume the one on the left is pre-seating and pre crimp and the one on the right is post, right?
The one on the left is to show the crimp groove so one can better visualize the brass rolled into the groove. I like visual as well. Explain it and I am.. ok I think I have it, but show me as well and... oh yea, got it.
Okay, that's what I was thinking. For some reason I was using the paint as a guide initially (still checked lengths). This will make adjusting my die a ton easier since I won't need to take it out until after I get close since I can use the cannelure as a visual reference.
Yeah, sometimes I'll read a paragraph on and my eyes will just glaze over, but same info in a youtube video and it all clicks.I like visual as well. Explain it and I am.. ok I think I have it, but show me as well and... oh yea, got it.
Awesome I'll post some pics tonight of crimps I try if I can. If that works out well than I can just start measuring powder and get a box of ammo out of the way (still validating weights and checking lengths).
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Set your crimp die with an empty case and no bullet, you will be able to see how much the mouth is rolling over and measure with calipers. All the crimp is doing is removing the case mouth bell, its not crimping the case to the bullet per say, a stiff crimp is not a good replacement for good case neck tension.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
It is with a roll-crimp as used with revolvers.
rc
returningfire
Member
Isn't the Colt Cobra a 38spl? and not a 357mag?
Or did I miss something?
Or did I miss something?
Case tension is still holding the bullet just like taper crimping revolver rounds which it seems a lot of cast shooters are using taper crimp instead of the roll crimp.
But with a roll crimp in a revolver bullet the crimp is also holding the bullet as well. With heavy bullets and hard recoiling calibers it needs that extra holding power along with proper neck tension.
What you described:
What you described:
is correct for an auto caliber, but not a revolver round when using a roll crimp, and as I posted, many revolver rounds need that roll crimp. Some don't.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
I have never measured the OAL of a revolver round. As said above, crimp in the manufacturers supplied crimp groove and call it good.
Revolvers are easy. Crimp in the groove provided and/or stay below the max COAL of 1.476" if no crimping groove exists. Drop them in your cylinder and make sure they're not sticking out past the front or not fully chambering at the rear or they'll tie up the rotation. If they're too long, shorten em up til they fit.
Follow up:
I had a friend look them over last night. He tested them in in Wilson Combat Case Gauge Chamber, it fit with no problems. He also said the crimp and my primer seating were good to go. He was also kind enough to give me some trail boss so I could try some reduced recoil goods at first.
Looks like I'll be loading up my first full revolver batch this weekend. Was very nice of him to take the time and look over my dummy cartridges.
I had a friend look them over last night. He tested them in in Wilson Combat Case Gauge Chamber, it fit with no problems. He also said the crimp and my primer seating were good to go. He was also kind enough to give me some trail boss so I could try some reduced recoil goods at first.
Looks like I'll be loading up my first full revolver batch this weekend. Was very nice of him to take the time and look over my dummy cartridges.
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