Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by IMtheNRA, May 8, 2019.
-Also, a few rolls of copper wool will go a long way toward helping to clear out ugly bores.
(I'm a little skeptical of using pot scrubbers on MY guns... .)
For me, 2 reasons:
 As far as I am concerned, "it ain't broke".
 If I stopped using Hoppes#9 I would have to find a source for amyl acetate to add to the replacement.
Alakazam was so effective that no matter how carefully you wiped it from the bore, there was always a microscopic residue.
Bullets just evaporated before they reached the muzzle, and cartridge cases melted away to nothing but a spent primer before you could open the bolt.
To quote myself:
“Rifle cleaning should not be a 24 hour sport. If your solvent takes hours you’re using the wrong stuff.”
I grew up on Hoppe’s and I have no desire to go back. There is no honor or dignity to be found in torturing yourself. If some new fangled concoction works I am happy to share its virtues with fellow shooters. Just a few short years ago I actually found a use for WD40; works great freeing up bicycle shifters. When I say “great” I mean PB, Kroil, and everything else I threw at the first got it moving 2 days later. WD accomplished that feat in 5 shifts (about 15 seconds).
I’m not maligning ole No 9, merely relating that for lead removal there are better means of removal.
Me too. It works just fine and the smell is nostalgic.
I drive one of those fancy horseless carriages too
When the calendar flipped nineteen years ago we entered the 21st Century. Might wanna join
If you haven’t used Wipe Out you’re only fooling yourself
? I would never use Hoppes#9 for lead removal as it would be an exercise in futility.
I use Hoppes#9 as my default bore cleaner.
Actually, I use Gunslick Pro Foaming Bore Cleaner on some bores that require specialty attention.
For my regular, nothing-special, bore-cleaning regimen I still use Hoppes#9 followed by Eezox. If the bore is really dirty, I will usually first run a patch or two dampened with Mineral Spirits thru the bore to remove most of the gross crud.
Every time I am getting low on the Hoppes I look around to see if there is anything that I may like better. So far, not.
I then bought a small bottle of the Eliminator to give it a try - I never looked back. The product looks just like water but it feels a little thicker to the touch. Whatever the working chemical is in this product, it dissolves lead and copper much faster than any of the other stuff I have used over the years. I let it sit in the barrel after a patch application for about three or so minutes - the follow up patches then come out a bright greenish-blue. I usually look down the end of the barrel with a flashlight where I can see the copper residue after a shooting session. After one or two three minute applications of this cleaner, I then see just steel - the stuff works great with very little effort (much less than I was used to).
Now if you like the solvent smell, you won’t like Eliminator - there is not even a slight odor.
Anyway, I would highly recommend this as a fast and thorough cleaner. Warning note: it will slightly dull a wood stock finish where contact occurs and if you do not religiously remove the residue from the action/ bore by diluting it with an oil coating (not unlike muzzleloader cleaning), it will eventually leave a slight residue of rust. I simply avoid any wood stock contact and I give the bore and action a good coat of gun oil - no problems since I learned those little details - it is a great cleaner!
Bore Tech Eliminator Bore Cleaner and it appears to be an excellent product. I am close to the bottom of my jug of Hoppes#9 so it is time.
I especially like the fact that it is water-based since that will readily draw the potassium chloride from fired "corrosive" primers into solution for easy removal. One less step to soon-after cleaning my milsurps following the use of chlorate-primered ammunition.
There are 16 different cleaners in your photo. Now thats TORTURE.
Water is for drinking, not for metal guns. May be ok for the newer plastic guns.
Enough fun with this subject. I will continue using my vintage #9. Bye
Actually 10 with 2 being CLP (one for the range bag, one for the bench). That isn’t all of them, and they aren’t all for regular care; I use Frog Lube exclusively for everything but rimfires and muzzleloaders now because it works so well. My .22s see nothing but Butch’s Bore Shine, front stuffers get No 13.
The rest of the collection services used firearms or clean ups done for friends’ neglected guns. As for water, I used to boil a pot and draw it up with a cleaning rod when cleaning my muzzleloaders. Worked great, far messier than 13.
While I have switched around, M-pro 7 and Wipeout is in my current cleaning cycle. I've tried several over the years, one of them discolored a nickle boron coated BCG. Works fine still, just a little discolored.
I have always meant to to Butches bore Shine, but never have. Never used Hoppes #9 either. I have a BUNCH of M-pro 7 on hand right now. And the Wipeout too...
I tried that. Solvents tend to eat them up.
Hoppes made one about 3 times the size in a 15 minute soak on an abused Mauser. I decided a mechanic's rubber glove finger over a spent case was a safer option.
For the record, bore soaking is a last ditch effort.
I’ll stress that many other products work, some probably better, just using what I’ve already verified which gives expected results.
My (step)daughter’s 10/22, no known history, disassembled for cleaning and mods. I only include “step” to explain the rifle’s filthy condition.
First patch after CB, slivers are solid lead. I double patched.
Subsequent patches: 2&3 dry, 4 with Bore Shine, 5 dry.
Brownells carries all their stuff now
Who knows? All I can say is that the powder is still nitro, but the solvent isn't anymore. Go figure.
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