Something You Don't See Every Day, the Triple Lock

[Monac]

Thanks for the information about the cylinder detent, Driftwood. I had no idea it survived the deletion of the third lock on the Triple Lock. Smith & Wesson really spared no effort on those guns.

 

[orpington]

Howdy

I assume you are only asking about Triple Locks, not all the other guns in my photos.

This one is really primo, in addition to being a Target Model, so it went really, really high.

https://www.rockislandauction.com/detail/59/1733/smith-wesson-44-hand-ejector

These two are more like the prices I have been seeing for Triple Locks.

Notice that like all old guns, condition has a great deal to do with the value.

https://www.rockislandauction.com/d...on-first-model-44-hand-ejector-triple-lock-da

https://www.rockislandauction.com/d...el-44-hand-ejector-triple-lock-revolver?text=


Because that old blue Triple Lock of mine was so finish challenged, I got it for less than $700. I jumped all over it and made sure it went home with me. By the way, although the outside of the gun is finish challenged, the bore and chambers look like they just left the factory yesterday, and everything functions perfectly. So that's why I was all over it. I have never seen a Triple Lock go that low in price. The serious collectors are usually looking for one in better condition, so the competition was not bad. I was thrilled to get it for under $700.

The nickel plated one cost quite a bit more, but not as much as any of the links I have posted.

Note that the second of three links posted pertains to a Triple Lock with a 5 inch barrel. This is significant in that the price realized would contain a premium for this 5 inch barrel which, by the way, due to barrel markings, has been verified to be correct and not cut from a much more common standard barrel of 6 1/2 inches.

 

[jeepnik]

This is one of the best threads I've seen anywhere. The OP provides good detailed info and the follow replies are clear and concise.

But I do have one complaint, and that is the title. I do, indeed, see a Triple lock everyday, or at least every time I open my safe.

 

[orpington]

This is one of the best threads I've seen anywhere. The OP provides good detailed info and the follow replies are clear and concise.

But I do have one complaint, and that is the title. I do, indeed, see a Triple lock everyday, or at least every time I open my safe.

Me, too! I consider myself VERY fortunate in that when I open my safe, there are 6 there to greet me. I do need a 7th one though--one for each day of the week!

 

[jeepnik]

Me, too! I consider myself VERY fortunate in that when I open my safe, there are 6 there to greet me. I do need a 7th one though--one for each day of the week!

While not that many triples I do have to admit I have a thing for old Smith's. They seem to call to me, especially when I see them in a shop. I've probably paid a bit more than I should for some, but so it goes.

 

[Malamute]

Thank you for your great illustration and history, you filled in blanks for me. My gun is not refinished and has a good bore. The problem lies in the inability to unlock it with latch and the action freezes up. I have not attempted to monkey with it, I want someone who knows these things. I would love to shoot .455 in it, I shoot it in a couple Webleys.

Check to be sure the extractor rod isn't loose. It should be a regular right hand thread. If tight, push the center pin in the rear of the cylinder in flush with the extractor star with flat of your thumbnail and look at the center pin in the front end of the extractor rod, it should be flush with the end of the rod when the rear is pushed in flush with the star/ratchet face.

If the rod is loose, find out the proper technique to torque it. Pliers or vise grips are not on the list of proper tools or methods.

 

[orpington]

Check to be sure the extractor rod isn't loose. It should be a regular right hand thread. If tight, push the center pin in the rear of the cylinder in flush with the extractor star with flat of your thumbnail and look at the center pin in the front end of the extractor rod, it should be flush with the end of the rod when the rear is pushed in flush with the star/ratchet face.

If the rod is loose, find out the proper technique to torque it. Pliers or vise grips are not on the list of proper tools or methods.

Great advice! I had a similar problem with two of mine. First one just required tightening the end of the threaded ejector rod. Second one required some Kroil to free up the "pin" at the end of the shroud all the way through to where it exits the extractor star.