Spray Can Camo

If you give the paint proper time to cure decent paint can be pretty durable, I had a marlin I camoed and was holding up well even after the 8-9 years of pretty hard use as my beater. The sponge camo is nice if you do damage the finish it's easy to cover up. And depending how you apply the paint you can get some good texture for added grip.
Proper curing time is essential. I have used both Krylon and Rustoleum but not knowing composition I never mix the two on same stock. Never had any issues and that first (top) picture in post #6 is at least 10 years old and while it probably has a few scratches from use it looks the same today as it did then. I really didn't expect it to hold up nearly as well as it does.
 
I did loose a gun one time for like 15 minutes lol, shot a deer and leaned it up on a tree when field dressing. My buddy shot a deer close by and we met up and talked and got his deer field dressed and dragged out, when we went back for my deer and rifle it slipped off the tree and slid down the hill some under the leaves. It slid down more then I thought and blended in so good we couldn't find it at first lol.
 
Master Gunsmith Mark Graham's (ARS) "Rhodie" camo style is interesting, and must be based on various worn examples used in the very long conflict, which was a "Cold" War proxy.
-------By the way, the only actual gunsmithing/building he does is on the many variations of the FAL rifles and the many parts kits sent to him;
-- in 2023 my total "turnaround time" was only three months for mod. repairs on the L1A1 (a Century build:scrutiny:).

This link includes his very detailed description of his camo process. The guy originally was an Army Ranger.
If I had a really scratched, scraped-up, and very faded FAL, then maybe it would seem worthwhile because there wouldn't be much to lose.

 
Last edited:
I've only sprayed my two 300 blackout guns with flat FDE Walmart Rust-Oleum.
That way I don't mix up the 5.56 mags Black with my 300 blackout FDE mags
I use electrical tape, for my 350 legend and 450 Bushmaster mags and matching tape on the magwell
 
I did loose a gun one time for like 15 minutes lol,
Hehe, I know what you mean. I did a M70 Stealth in Eastern Colorado weed colors, yellow, rust red, kind of a sea green. No particular pattern, just both angular and spray color boundaries. A couple times, I had occasion to leave it lying while I walked around some. Both times it took me 15-20 min to recognize it in the weeds. o_O

West out
 
I’m at it again. I dug out the old beater Crickett 22 and decided it needs a facelift. This gun is literally a beater in every sense of the phrase. It is rusty, deeply scarred, and has a rail JB welded to the reciever, has epoxy on it in multiple spots, and holes drilled through the stock for sling mounts. All of that just destroys an otherwise not great firearm but it was $40 so I couldn’t say no. Especially since it had a $50 dot sight on it. It’s actually a decent shooting gun considering what it is. So it gets the paint.

I essentially masked off the entire reciever. With the bolt and ways being what they are it was just easier to mask it all than to try and mask the serial number and protect the innards. I should have taken a picture before I started but I didn’t. Here’s step 1 a basic gray layer to make it uniform.

IMG_2296.jpeg
 
I've done a few over the years using rattle can, and air brush for highlighting.
pgeZnM9.jpg


qEhVWaX.jpg


vICrp7g.jpg


yACWgzF.jpg


IK2uE8U.jpg


I've also done a few composite stocks with alcohol inks to resemble wood stocks.

4P9zeNY.jpg


hITx2Xz.jpg


sQCW2wc.jpg


gwvNRAt.jpg
Great work! What butt stock is that on the AR?
 
Well, I lost all the other pics I had when my phone died. But here's a recent pic of my Win M70 varmint gun. As noted above, I just guessed at eastern Colo weed colors and did Rust-oleum from HD. Sorry about the background, I got my sis to send me a pic from her house. Only mistake I made was painting with the bipod extended. It took a couple years for that paint to wear off so the bipod would close easy again. I painted everything, just taping critical areas. It's suffering a little wear along the bottom of forearm from bag wear.

I've 'lost' it a couple times when leaving it to walk around. This is an early 2000's model 70 'Stealth'. Started out just plain ugly black. It's pretty accurate, I can't complain about it being 'post-64'. It is heavier than crap, tho', about 13 lb. Definitely a 'sit' gun, not a 'tote' gun. It's in .223.

-West out
 

Attachments

  • m70camo.jpg
    m70camo.jpg
    147.8 KB · Views: 21
I decided several years ago that camouflage is much more for the hunter than the huntee. Staying still, quite, and hopefully downwind does the trick. I used to watch coyote hunting videos for tips and tricks and the most successful hunter I ever watched hunted in middle New Mexico, a land of grass prairies with juniper bushes. He carried a ordinary blued and wood stocked rifle. His apparel was lace up 16" brown boots over jeans, a brown coat, and a round brown campaign hat. He would get close to a juniper and blow his mouth call and coyote after coyote fell to his rifle. I did the full camo everything for coyote hunting for several years and it never seemed to be a help at all.
 
I contemplated a camo paint job on my Rem. 700VSF stock, but it's a high dollar HS Precision Kevlar stock and I just couldn't bring myself to deface it. So it's still desert sand color and will probably stay that way. I recently bought a Magpul detachable magazine kit for it and it wasn't even a close fit. I then discovered the Magpul kits are strictly for Magpul plastic stocks, not the factory HS Precision stocks. And HS Precision wants precious metal prices for their version! Magpul was $67, and HS Precision is $475!!
 
In the spirit of the original intent of the thread, I'll offer this 50s vintage Carl Gustav 96 mauser. Most of the work was done prior to my acquiring the rifle. I just replaced the barrel and installed the cock on opening kit and trigger.

20250206_121538.jpg

20250206_121551.jpg

And to honor the thread drift... I'll off this 1920s vintage Savage 23b in 25-20.
I used existing holes in the receiver and some JB weld to install the scope mount. And I installed the sling swivel studs. It's a fun little package for snowshoe hares; but I really want to kill a coyote with it. Someday

20250206_121301.jpg

20250206_121538.jpg 20250206_121551.jpg 20250206_121301.jpg 20250206_121243.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20250206_121228.jpg
    20250206_121228.jpg
    72.3 KB · Views: 7
I decided several years ago that camouflage is much more for the hunter than the huntee. Staying still, quite, and hopefully downwind does the trick. I used to watch coyote hunting videos for tips and tricks and the most successful hunter I ever watched hunted in middle New Mexico, a land of grass prairies with juniper bushes. He carried a ordinary blued and wood stocked rifle. His apparel was lace up 16" brown boots over jeans, a brown coat, and a round brown campaign hat. He would get close to a juniper and blow his mouth call and coyote after coyote fell to his rifle. I did the full camo everything for coyote hunting for several years and it never seemed to be a help at all.

I can't say that I disagree. I've spent countless hours in a tree stand admiring my rattle can paint jobs. However, it certainly doesn't hurt either.

I also agree that sitting still is the best form of camo. However, we all know that you can't sit perfectly still for hours on end, and for those times when you do have to move, camo likely allows you to get away with it moreso than without.
 
Back
Top