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Springfield GI stainless.

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by ruger357, Apr 3, 2004.

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  1. ruger357

    ruger357 Member

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    I have been so impressed with my parkerized GI 1911 that I bought the stainless version today. Pretty good price also $425. Now I have to wait until a week from Monday to get it.:(
     
  2. cerberus

    cerberus member

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    Why the wait?

    Is there a waiting period in your State or did you buy it online?
     
  3. 1911Tuner

    1911Tuner Moderator Emeritus

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    Stainless Mil-Spec

    ...is a contradiction in terms...:D Sorry..I had to say it or bust.

    When you go pick it up, get a small tub of Original Formula J&B Bore Cleaner and a small bottle of CLP Breakfree. Mil-Spec LSA weapons oil will
    do as a substitute for the CLP...About 7 or 8 bucks total. I'll explain it later...Nappy time for the ol' man. *yawn* Been a long time since
    4 this mornin'...

    Luck!

    Tuner
     
  4. ruger357

    ruger357 Member

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    Cerberus yes a 7 day waiting period.
    1911Tuner:confused: Get back to me about that when you wake up.
     
  5. 1911Tuner

    1911Tuner Moderator Emeritus

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    Awake!

    Ahh...Nothin' like a little mid-afternoon nap to recharge the ol' batteries.

    Okay Ruger ThreeFiftySeven...

    The Bore Cleaner and the CLP is used to make a slurry that will smooth out
    the works in that stainless Springer. Stainless has a tendency to gall,
    especially when reciprocating parts...like the slide and frame...are a fairly
    close fit.

    When you get it, you may notice that there's a gritty feel when you hand-cycle the gun. SO, before you shoot it, field-strip it and feel for any sharp
    corners along the slide rails...topside and underneath. If they're there,
    lightly chamfer the corners at 45 degrees with a medium stone. Easy
    now...just a light touch to break the corners.

    Mix the bore cleaner and the Breakfree in a suitable cup until the goop
    just starts to sag off the end of a screwdriver, but not thin enough to drip.
    Let it stand open overnight to let the carrier evaporate. About a teaspoonful of the bore cleaner should be plenty for the base.

    Put a generous amount in the frame rails, on the locking lugs, lower barrel lug and on the link. Smear a little on the OD of the barrel and ID of the bushing...and just a light dab on the cocking rail in the slide...the center part. Put the gun together without the recoil spring, guide, or plug
    and hand-cycle it about 200-250 times, stopping halfway to add a little
    more goop to the frame rails.

    Rinse it all out with carburetor cleaner and dry with compressed air or by
    air drying for an hour or two. Wipe it all down and use the CLP to lube the gun. Go shoot.

    You probably noticed a tight spot in the cycle of your parkerized Mil-Spec too...the slurry can be used to smooth that up as well. Carbon steel gives
    better results than stainless, and feels like buttered glass. Stainless will
    do nearly as good, but not quite as sweet.

    In the days before J&B, we used 101-S Dupont Rubbing Compound for the
    final lapping operation, and finished up with 606-S polishing compound.
    Now we use straight J&B, and finish with the mix...Neat!:cool:

    Luck!

    Tuner
     
  6. ruger357

    ruger357 Member

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    Thanks Tuner I'll have to give that a try.
     
  7. tlohern

    tlohern Member

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    I've only had mine to the range once.I put 150 rounds of Blazer FMJ through it,not one malfunction.The sights seem to work better for me than the ones on my standard GI.Very nice gun for the price.[​IMG]
     
  8. ruger357

    ruger357 Member

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    Nice pic tlohern and welcome .
     
  9. shooter.45

    shooter.45 Member

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    Now you will have Salt N Pepper ruger357. Hope it shoots well. :D
     
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