SR1911-10 barrel lower lug is cracked

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Just out of curiosity, what do you think could/would have happened if it had let go during firing?
 
Just out of curiosity, what do you think could/would have happened if it had let go during firing?

I personally think that the gun would have been out of action, but I don't think it would have caused some serious personal injury. I'm pretty sure the slide cannot come off the back of a 1911 even with no barrel or link whatsoever. The recoil spring housing at the bottom of the slide would bang into the top of the frame feedramp plus all the other solid stuff at the back of the frame.

I once saw a Glock shear off its lower locking/camming lug during a competition... a part that performs basically the same role as the link interface on the 1911. Nothing blew up. Barrel just didn't cam down when the slide came back. Had to disassemble the gun to clear the fired round, but that was it.

With the location of the crack shown here, I suspect that the link and barrel ramp remnant flopping around in the frame would probably have prevented the pistol from going back into battery. But losing the link or the lower part of the feedramp doesn't seem like a recipe for a kaboom or a slide flying backwards.

But there are others here with far more in-depth knowledge of the 1911 than me, and I'm happy to be corrected if I've got the above wrong.
 
Called Ruger today and they sent me a return label. Back to the Mothership she goes.

It has been my experience that Ruger provides excellent product service. :thumbup:

When it comes back, shoot it enough to get back that feeling of trust and confidence. I have noticed a number of posters who have some sort of firearm failure, sent it back, where it is fixed, and then immediately sell the repaired firearm because they lost trust in it! If these guys had shot enough rounds in the repaired firearm they probably would have begun to love it again.
 
My first thought was that the slide might come off, but the front of the slide should have kept the slide on the frame.
I agree. I think you would have just ended up with a stoppage and failure to return to battery and I'd think the barrel lock up, even if jammed up would keep the slide on the frame. Taking it apart would've likely been kind of a bear, and I'm guessing you'd have some marred up surfaces along with maybe a recoil spring. Either way, I don't see an injury being possible.

Either way, I think Ruger would fix or replace the gun, but it's much more easily salvaged now.
 
It has been my experience that Ruger provides excellent product service. :thumbup:

When it comes back, shoot it enough to get back that feeling of trust and confidence. I have noticed a number of posters who have some sort of firearm failure, sent it back, where it is fixed, and then immediately sell the repaired firearm because they lost trust in it! If these guys had shot enough rounds in the repaired firearm they probably would have begun to love it again.

I have a different take on it. Typical gun gets a cursory inspection and out it goes. You send one back and assuming it was properly repaired you now have a thoroughly inspected gun.

I think that may be the reason you get a gun back with a note that they replaced four items and it's hard to see how three had anything to do with the issue. In reality they didn't. You are just now the owner of a "blueprinted" gun.

I guess some people just prefer a gun that's less precise and less thoroughly inspected.
 
From what I've read, Ruger was going to incorporate a radius at the corner of the lug to prevent this cracking. The original barrels had a sharp 90 and this is where the crack originates.My SR 10mm has a generous radius in this corner so obviously Ruger did as they said. OP, could you post a pic of your barrel shown from this angle to see if its an original or updated barrel?


rug10mm.jpg
 
Just out of curiosity, what do you think could/would have happened if it had let go during firing?
The exact results depends on where in the unlocking/extraction/ejection/stripping/chambering/locking/firing cycle it failed. But likely nothing especially exciting. It just wouldn't have worked properly.
 
Yup, this is what I think could have happened as well.
I agree. I think you would have just ended up with a stoppage and failure to return to battery and I'd think the barrel lock up, even if jammed up would keep the slide on the frame. Taking it apart would've likely been kind of a bear, and I'm guessing you'd have some marred up surfaces along with maybe a recoil spring. Either way, I don't see an injury being possible.

Either way, I think Ruger would fix or replace the gun, but it's much more easily salvaged now.

Nothing to the shooter, maybe ruin the gun.

The slide can't come off the back of the frame without tearing the bushing end off. Very likely the the slide returns partway forward and hangs up, with possible frame damage.

The exact results depends on where in the unlocking/extraction/ejection/stripping/chambering/locking/firing cycle it failed. But likely nothing especially exciting. It just wouldn't have worked properly.


Update: I received an email with a tracking number for a package originating from Prescott, AZ. No Ruger communication indicated it was heading back. We'll see...
 
Is this for which you're asking?
From what I've read, Ruger was going to incorporate a radius at the corner of the lug to prevent this cracking. The original barrels had a sharp 90 and this is where the crack originates.My SR 10mm has a generous radius in this corner so obviously Ruger did as they said. OP, could you post a pic of your barrel shown from this angle to see if its an original or updated barrel?


View attachment 891366
20200208_160859.jpg
 
To the OP, how long have you owned this pistol, and do you know the date of manufacture? I just bought an SR1911 10mm, fired it the first time yesterday with 40 rounds of Hornady factory ammo. What I'm wondering about the mfg date is, the breech end of your barrel where it says "10mm Auto" is black, where mine is polished. My pistol is black, but the portion of the barrel that you see in the ejection port when the pistol is in battery is highly polished. I'm just wondering what the differences are between your pistol and mine.

I think the 1911 frame is plenty strong enough for the 10mm round. As many manufacturers now as are making a 10mm in this platform, they must have confidence in the design. I certainly have more faith in an all-steel pistol chambered for 10mm than I do for one with a plastic frame, and I've owned a Glock 20 since the month the gun was introduced in 1992, and it never gave a second's trouble. Undoubtedly there will be a failure at some point in almost any design, but not always because of the design itself. There may be numerous reports of these 10mm pistols having a common problem, but what are the numbers of failures when compared to the total number of pistols built? How many owners report on a regular basis, "Used my pistol today, but nothing broke"?

This is the fourth Ruger pistol I own (22/45, LC9, SR40C) I hope and expect it will be as reliable and trouble-free as the others have been.
 
I think the 1911 frame is plenty strong enough for the 10mm round. As many manufacturers now as are making a 10mm in this platform,
You have to admit that adding slide speed to the system has to shorten useful pistol life. I'm soon to assemble a long slide 10 and am hoping the extra weight of the slide slows it down enough to cut the hammering down, that and very small radius on the firing pin stop. Even so my guess would be 2/3 the life of the same setup using .45 ACP.
It seems to me that some trade offs are justifiable, because it takes a long time for most 1911's to see 40K rounds of .45 ACP, and also a long time to run out 26,600 rounds of 10MM.
Also, for me at least, I tend to load powderpuff loads for target and plinking, with which system life could be considered several owner lifetimes long.
For self defense full house loads are cheap, because you shouldn't need many. I'm aware that some feel you should be practicing with what you carry, but the difference (It seems to me) between lower power practice loads and high performance rounds would not be noticeable if someone was shooting at me.
 
I got mine new as soon as I could when they first came out, in 2017. The bbl is SS, but is colored black. I don't know the differences of newer units. I've searched the various forums about this bottom lug issue and read came across four or five discussions on the same issue, but all were in 2018 or earlier. I also have several Rugers, but I'm not at all concerned about any of them. I'll shoot the heck out of it when I get it back and intend to keep it...unless the issue recurs.
To the OP, how long have you owned this pistol, and do you know the date of manufacture? I just bought an SR1911 10mm, fired it the first time yesterday with 40 rounds of Hornady factory ammo. What I'm wondering about the mfg date is, the breech end of your barrel where it says "10mm Auto" is black, where mine is polished. My pistol is black, but the portion of the barrel that you see in the ejection port when the pistol is in battery is highly polished. I'm just wondering what the differences are between your pistol and mine.

I think the 1911 frame is plenty strong enough for the 10mm round. As many manufacturers now as are making a 10mm in this platform, they must have confidence in the design. I certainly have more faith in an all-steel pistol chambered for 10mm than I do for one with a plastic frame, and I've owned a Glock 20 since the month the gun was introduced in 1992, and it never gave a second's trouble. Undoubtedly there will be a failure at some point in almost any design, but not always because of the design itself. There may be numerous reports of these 10mm pistols having a common problem, but what are the numbers of failures when compared to the total number of pistols built? How many owners report on a regular basis, "Used my pistol today, but nothing broke"?

This is the fourth Ruger pistol I own (22/45, LC9, SR40C) I hope and expect it will be as reliable and trouble-free as the others have been.
 
When I got the SR1911-10, I had expected that Improved materials / alloys would have addressed the platform limitations. Perhaps not.
You have to admit that adding slide speed to the system has to shorten useful pistol life.

The reason I got the 10mm was to shoot spicy loads, and had expected the Ruger to stand up to the punishment. I can shoot my 40S&Ws if I want to tone it down. As it turned out, this 10mm was a "gateway drug" to more power. First the 44 Magnum and more recently 460 S&W Magnum. :cool:
Also, for me at least, I tend to load powderpuff loads for target and plinking, with which system life could be considered several owner lifetimes long.
For self defense full house loads are cheap, because you shouldn't need many.
 
I wouldn't worry about the durability of Ruger's 10mm 1911 if they had a tendency to break lower lugs it'd be all over the web. Every manufacturer no matter how good the quality control turns out a lemon. It's how the company respondes on correcting that lemon.,I've had Ruger rifles and pistols that had a part break and never had a problem with them fixing the problem.
 
She arrived back from the Mothership today, just shy of 2 1/2 weeks, no cost to me. The barrel was replaced, 35 rounds of 180gr HAP Black Hills shot through her without incident, and sent back on her merry way. No other details provided, but Ruger sent me the obligatory silicone cloth. I could not detect any changes to the bbl design, but difficult to know for sure not having both side-by-side. One minor change was rounded edges on the top of the bbl on both sides of the witness hole. Oh yeah, one other difference; the feed ramp was polished, baby butt smooth. Original bbl was a little rough. Looks good, we'll see if issue never recurs. Happy with Ruger's handling of the matter. 200302 bbl edit.jpg
 
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First I have seen with the hood rounded off like that.

Lack of detail seems usual for warranty repair. A recent poster is expecting all sorts of diagnostic report and step by step account of repair but I doubt he will get it.
 
She arrived back from the Mothership today, just shy of 2 1/2 weeks, no cost to me. The barrel was replaced, 35 rounds of 180gr HAP Black Hills shot through her without incident, and sent back on her merry way. No other details provided, but Ruger sent me the obligatory silicone cloth. I could not detect any changes to the bbl design, but difficult to know for sure not having both side-by-side. One minor change was rounded edges on the top of the bbl on both sides of the witness hole. Oh yeah, one other difference; the feed ramp was polished, baby butt smooth. Original bbl was a little rough. Looks good, we'll see if issue never recurs. Happy with Ruger's handling of the matter. View attachment 896091
Can you please post a pic of the breech face and the old-open?
 
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