Steel target question

[tcoz]

I'm getting ready to put in my first order for some steel targets. They'll be for 5.56 and .30-06 (M1 Garand) at 100 yards. The company website indicates that 3/8" steel is the upper limt for .30-06 but I'm leaning toward 1/2" for longer life. The only drawback is the extra weight. Does anybody have experience shooting steel with .30-06 and if so, what thickness do you use.

 

[zerobarrier]

Make sure it is AR-500 steel. At a 100yards you will see that the 5.56 will still dimple it if using FMJ. All my steel is 3/8" AR-500. Never shot 30-06 at them, but for 5.56 I like to keep them at least 150 yards away.

 

[tcoz]

They are AR-500 but my range only goes to 100 yds.

 

[jbauch357]

My steel and the steel I maintain for our local range is 1/2" AR500. It should be considered the minimum thickness for anything you want to actually hold up to punishment or continual rate of fire.

Black tip hardened steel core armor piercing .308 will take small chunks out of it, .50BMG API will go through it like butter - aside from those you're going to have a hard time doing any actual damage. Heck we even hit mine with .50BMG mild steel core at 100yds and it did less damage than the black tip .308.

 

[tcoz]

Thanks jbauch. That reinforces my decision and is what I expected. The ammo used will be 55gr FMJ, 150gr FMJ and some Greek surplus .30-06 M2 ball 150gr steel core.

 

[OldmanFCSA]

For mopre info, contact: Evan Moyer at www.shootsteel.com

 

[ColtPythonElite]

I have 3/8" AR500 gongs. I shoot mine with large rifles up to and perhaps past .30-O6. I have had them for about 5 years. They aren't showing much wear. I think 3/8" is fine for personal use. I probably wouldn't put them up at a club.

 

[tcoz]

I forgot to mention that the .30-06 ammo I'll be using is surplus steel core (not AP) which might make a difference and would likely require 1/2" steel. My option is just to buy 3/8", use it for 5.56 only and shoot paper with the M1 since I won't be shooting it all that much anyway and might not justify the added weight and expense of buying 1/2".

 

[taliv]

i think you're wasting your money. shooting steel with those rifles at 100 yards is pretty pointless.

your target will be huge (like 6 MOA+) and your hangers (chains, conveyor belt or firehose) probably won't last more than a few rounds. you'll hit the bolts a lot too, which will be annoying to change.

you won't be able to rapid fire, because the target will be swinging so hard.

stick with paper at 100

 

[tcoz]

I was planning to get a 4" and 6" gong and a 10" bullseye gong that has a 3" swinging bullseye in the center. I use a non-magnified RDS with a 3 MOA dot so I figured they'd still be a challenge, especially with my bad 64yo eyes.

I only rapid fire 50yds at paper and that wouldn't change.

 

[kylec]

I bought some last week from a LGS and shot them this past weekend. They are 3/8 ar500 gongs and one silo. The largest caliber I shot was .308. They all held up well to 147gr fmj. No pitting as far as I could tell. My silo has a small chip in the edge, but I don't know which round caused it.

 

[tcoz]

I bought some last week from a LGS and shot them this past weekend. They are 3/8 ar500 gongs and one silo. The largest caliber I shot was .308. They all held up well to 147gr fmj. No pitting as far as I could tell. My silo has a small chip in the edge, but I don't know which round caused it.

From what I've heard, regardless of steel thickness or caliber, they'll chip if you hit them on the edge.

 

[Sunray]

"...would likely require 1/2" steel..." There's 1/2" steel and 1/2" steel. It ain't all the same. Any .30 calibre bullet will go through a 1/2" of mild steel at 100. Or at the very least bash big chunks in it that will cause frag. Said frag can fly 100 yards without much fuss.

 

[27hand]

steel

1/2" mild steel test plate fired at about 12 yds from behind cover.




top to bottom.

7.62X39 from SKS
.223 wolf from 16" Bushmaster
9mm from 3 1/2" Kahr P9 Covert
30.06 150gr Nosler BT over 57.5 gr IMR4350 Rem Pump 760
30-30 170 gr flat nosed (Speer IIRC) over 4350? Marlin 336
180 gr .40 S&W ball from 4" Glock 32 (.40 bbl)
7.62 X 39 from Chicom AK
.44 mag 240 gr Speer magnum soft point 7 1/2" Redhawk
.300 Win Mag 165 gr Wolf Gold ( through ) Savage
7.62 X 51 from Ishapore 2A1
7.62 X 51 from Spanish FR-8


I believe the 2 Colt Speed plates from MGM ( which are 6" round, 3/8" thick spring loaded resetting) would be a good 100 yd target although I haven't shot them with rifle yet. They are AR500. I have to build a base to elevate them about 2 feet. Spring project.



I would suggest not shooting mild with a rifle although mild does hold up to non magnum pistol.

 

[tcoz]

How does mild steel differ from AR500 and AR550?

 

[zerobarrier]

Its all based on the brinell hardness. AR 500 steel has a brinell hardness of ~500. Mild steel can be anywhere from 150-225. Like A36 which is a construction grade steel is ~165 on the scale, way less then half the hardness of AR500.

Here is a link to Artzen targets that explains some of it. http://www.arntzentargets.com/SteelTypes.htm

 

[27hand]

This is the resource guide to shooting steel I like to post.

http://www.actiontarget.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/pt_Steel_Target_Resource_Guide.pdf

 

[mwsenoj]

Haven't read the whole thread, but I just put a serious pock mark in my (expensive) AR500 full size silhouette when I hit it with a 95 gr V-Max out of my 260 rem @110 yds. I'd hesitate to shoot either of those rounds at any steel at that yardage if I expected to get good use out of it before it starts boomeranging lead back at me.

 

[kato0810]

"...would likely require 1/2" steel..." There's 1/2" steel and 1/2" steel. It ain't all the same. Any .30 calibre bullet will go through a 1/2" of mild steel at 100. Or at the very least bash big chunks in it that will cause frag. Said frag can fly 100 yards without much fuss.

He said it is going to be AR500. Twice.

 

[tcoz]

Thanks for your input guys. From everything I've read here and from other sources, I'm considering scrapping the steel target idea for now. It sounds like 100 yds is too iffy for those calibers, especially the .30-06 milsurp steel core ammo. I think I might keep shooting paper and consider a Bullseye target video system. It wouldn't be much more expensive than the steel targets and stand that I was going to buy.

 

[27hand]

I would purchase one small AR500 target and try it out at 100 with the steel core ammo.

I'm not well versed in steel core but have thought the steel is a very soft steel (brinnel hardness unknown) and doesn't penetrate much more than lead core.

I think I have a 1/2' thick mild steel test plate made up with 7 rounds of 7.62X39 which includes some Chinese steel core rounds. Found it but don't have the list of specific rounds. The craters should mirror the loose rounds on the table



Lets see if the markings on the plate will give me a clue. You can actually make out the initialed craters.

Ok. Left to right are Chinese steel core bottom left and Chinese steel core just above it.
Top left is plastic cored German. 4th from left is Golden Tiger, then German plastic core. last 2 are Wolf and Egyptian.

The Chinese steel core #2 is a bit deeper than the Golden Tiger and Wolf but about the same as the Egyptian.

I know there may be a substantial difference in 30.06 and 7.62X39 on mild steel.

Like I said, I would get a small AR500 plate you can hit at 100 and survey the damage. Then make a decision as to whether or not the steel will hold up for your purposes.