Steel Wool vs. brass for the reloader

[quest4perfection]

Steel wool is apparently used a lot by reloaders. Consider this: brass wool (fine= ~000 steel wool) does not leave tiny strands or "dust" in your work. Its hardness is approximately that of brass cases and bullets. Some uses: polish inside of dies (look up at Redding site); Lightly polish bullets to remove seating marks between measurements using Hornady's LNL gauge to provide a clean reading each time; polish inside chamfer of cases (at least one person uses a copper pipe cap with a hole drilled through it and a bolt attached, packing steel wool inside-suggest using brass wool -FINE); smooth threads in presses- keeping on your bench you will find myriad uses and would like to hear other ideas.

 

[edwardware]

Consider this: brass wool (fine= ~000 steel wool) does not leave tiny strands or "dust" in your work.

Why would you assume brass wool won't leave hair on the work? It will.

Its hardness is approximately that of brass cases and bullets. Some uses: polish inside of dies (look up at Redding site). . . lightly polish bullets to remove seating marks. . . polish inside chamfer of cases. . . smooth threads in presses. . .

All good ideas, for which I prefer a wool that's harder than brass. . . steel wool. Other advantages include:

1) Steel wool is harder than Fe2O3 (ferric oxide, ie rust), but slightly softer than Fe3O4 (magnetite, ie blueing). Perfect for restoring rusted blueing, or scrubbing out surface-hardened dies.

2) Steel won't gall microscopic deposits of copper into pores in the work surface, whereas brass (and probably bronze) will. That's why the carding in between rust bluing treatments, is done with a fine steel carding wheel, not with a bronze wheel.

I have an assortment of pads and bobs of 0000 steel wool on the bench now; just finished polishing out a slightly neglected set of Redding dies.

So, what's the advantage of bronze?

 

[quest4perfection]

Why would you assume brass wool won't leave hair on the work? It will.



All good ideas, for which I prefer a wool that's harder than brass. . . steel wool. Other advantages include:

1) Steel wool is harder than Fe2O3 (ferric oxide, ie rust), but slightly softer than Fe3O4 (magnetite, ie blueing). Perfect for restoring rusted blueing, or scrubbing out surface-hardened dies.

2) Steel won't gall microscopic deposits of copper into pores in the work surface, whereas brass (and probably bronze) will. That's why the carding in between rust bluing treatments, is done with a fine steel carding wheel, not with a bronze wheel.

I have an assortment of pads and bobs of 0000 steel wool on the bench now; just finished polishing out a slightly neglected set of Redding dies.

So, what's the advantage of bronze?

Each has its own uses. Prepping for bluing is a different, specialized process. Brass wool used at the reloading bench, being sure not to hold your work over it, has many uses that are relevant to this thread. Suggesting the polishing of the inside of dies usually elicits emphatic arguments, so while I sometimes use steel wool myself in dies, I was using discretion while offering a conservative idea for those reluctant to do so. "Fines" is relevant to application and I assume readers have the common sense to carefully clean anything that goes into chamber or dies. Personally, I ultrasound, wipe out, lube lightly with a no-residue lubricant. Regarding galling, it seems to me that if someone found an issue such as scratched cases, the first thing they would do would be to use a copper cleaner, at least.

Offering ideas should not lead to off-topic myopic, self serving criticism.

 

[Patocazador]

"Offering ideas should not lead to off-topic myopic, self serving criticism".

Isn't that what you are doing in the sentence above?

 

[quest4perfection]

"Offering ideas should not lead to off-topic myopic, self serving criticism".

Isn't that what you are doing in the sentence above?

No. But I now know what motivates you and holds your interest.

 

[Scooter22]

Geez I've been reloading 15 different rounds for over 40 years and never used "wool" of any kind in the process. Must be doing something wrong. But they all go bang and make tiny groups.

 

[ATLDave]

I think the guy just has some brass-fleeced sheep and is trying to bump up the market.

 

[snuffy]

Steel wool is apparently used a lot by reloaders. Consider this: brass wool (fine= ~000 steel wool) does not leave tiny strands or "dust" in your work. Its hardness is approximately that of brass cases and bullets. Some uses: polish inside of dies (look up at Redding site); Lightly polish bullets to remove seating marks between measurements using Hornady's LNL gauge to provide a clean reading each time; polish inside chamfer of cases (at least one person uses a copper pipe cap with a hole drilled through it and a bolt attached, packing steel wool inside-suggest using brass wool -FINE); smooth threads in presses- keeping on your bench you will find myriad uses and would like to hear other ideas.

Apparently not. ( referring to bold type). Your mind is made up that brass wool is somehow better, you want everybody to agree with you.

First time I've heard of "brass wool". If I had I would have ignored it as something that would have no place on my loading bench. The use for steel wool is that it is harder than brass, but softer than hardened steel used in dies. It is also softer than barrel steel, so a lot of people use it for stubborn fouling in barrels. It really shines up a shotgun barrel when spun on a bore brush, taking lead and plastic wad residue right out.

So go right ahead thinking it's great for your use, I disagree.

 

[.308 Norma]

Geez I've been reloading 15 different rounds for over 40 years and never used "wool" of any kind in the process.

Me too.

 

[USSR]

Brass wool? I think he means Bronze wool. Great for removing small spots of surface rust on a blued surface without removing the bluing. That's what I use it for and nothing else.

Don

 

[snakeye]

I have never considered using brass wool in anything related to reloading...I have always used 000 and/or 0000 for cleaning dies, presses, etc and even polishing parts in my guns...... been using it for years.....it has always worked well and have never had issues related to using it....

 

[doubleh]

Me too.

Me three.

 

[Swampman]

Personally I prefer 00000000 depleted uranium wool myself...

 

[Demi-human]

I use sheep wool the most, especially this time of year.

Like a crow, I also like shiny things. Wool will shine all sorts of small metal vessals that may have set ouside for some time.

I have all types of wool. If one has a leaded barrel, there is often nothing better than to scrub it clean with elbow grease and steel wool. On softer barrel steels, like found on some rimfires, or premium barrels that shouldn't accumulate lead based on the purchase price and the extreme care in which it's, not inexpensive, projectiles are loaded with, bronze or copper wool is a great alternative. The fibers wiping action works better than the sweeping bristles of the same material's brush, in my opinion.

Of course all of this can be done with a cotton wool remnant, or "rag" as some of the hipsters call them.

A small piece of fiber glass wool insulation makes an excellent window glass cleaner for stubborn spots of paint!

 

[entropy]

Steel wool is apparently used a lot by reloaders. Consider this: brass wool

Considered;.... synopsis: Brass wool is much less effective than steel wool for said application.

Offering ideas should not lead to off-topic myopic, self serving criticism.

Though I am physically myopic (as well as astigmatic and presbyopic), my synopsis of your proposition is not.

Purely for clarification, here's what I do: Once a year, I pull my dies apart and use steel wool to clean them if necessary. I then use brake cleaner to be sure there is no residue of any type. If die performance indicates, I clean them as needed.

 

[edwardware]

A small piece of fiber glass wool insulation makes an excellent window glass cleaner for stubborn spots of paint!

Huh, I would not have thought of that. Good idea. I'll need to try it.

 

[entropy]

So does a razor blade.

 

[mdi]

"Steel" wool has no place on my bench. I have brass/copper wool but no steel. While both may leave slivers/residue, the steel wool is finer and leaves much more and rusts...

 

[Demi-human]

So does a razor blade.

Some of the newer windows from Jeld-wen have a vapor deposition film that they state not to use a blade on.

Then they ship them with silicone finger prints all over them.

I am unsure if the fiber glass will remove or damage the film, but technically I did not void the warranty.

 

[Scooter22]

"Steel" wool has no place on my bench. I have brass/copper wool but no steel. While both may leave slivers/residue, the steel wool is finer and leaves much more and rusts...

Unfortunately most steel wool is Chines made and breaks and splinters like crazy. It embeds in everything. From what I've read it's more like wrought iron metal than the good stuff we used to get years ago. I haven't used it since the 90s. Too much mess and grief.