Stepping up to a progressive press

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PTX - Powder thru expander, goes in the bottom of the powder measure setup to flair the case when you drop powder, so you don't need to use a flair die in a station.
I know what the "powder thru expander" is; just wasn't familiar with the abbreviation. I use it in all my Lee set-ups with the Pro Auto Disk.
I presently have 4 stations on my Lee set-ups, and adding a 5th will be nice with the Hornady for the bullet seater. I like wet-tumbling too, but I decap everything first, then wet tumble to clean all in one setting.

So I guess I,
1. decap and tumble
2. hand prime
3. go to press and resize
4. flare and charge
5. seat
6. crimp
Never thought about a lockout die, or a powder cop - but then this is the first time I've been exposed to them. Sound like some good ideas.
 
I know what the "powder thru expander" is; just wasn't familiar with the abbreviation. I use it in all my Lee set-ups with the Pro Auto Disk.
I presently have 4 stations on my Lee set-ups, and adding a 5th will be nice with the Hornady for the bullet seater. I like wet-tumbling too, but I decap everything first, then wet tumble to clean all in one setting.

So I guess I,
1. decap and tumble
2. hand prime
3. go to press and resize
4. flare and charge
5. seat
6. crimp
Never thought about a lockout die, or a powder cop - but then this is the first time I've been exposed to them. Sound like some good ideas.

You're not going to hand prime instead of priming on your LNL are you?
 
You're not going to hand prime instead of priming on your LNL are you?
Maybe.. I like having the brass already ready; I'll give the LNL a shot at priming; I'll definitely keep decapping then cleaning. I like those clean pockets, and it's good to inspect them anyway.
 
My bench has 1 new Ammo-plant the other 3 are what the previous owners thought were paperweights. And that is what I paid "paperweight price".

When I first started out about 6 1/2 years ago it was something for me and my 15-year-old grandson to do together. But after a year he found that he liked girls more than loading with his Poppy. But in that first year, we got that press to run pretty good with few problems. But we did have small problems. Then on the forms, a lot of the Dillon guys just wouldn't stop bad mouthing the Hornady press. So my new goal was to get my 100% Hornady press not to run as good as a 100% Dillon, but better. And I think I have done that. That is why I have for the last 3 1/2 years have offered to bet my press against any Dillon.

The first thing I did was to get the press to run 100% without any problems faster than I could pull the handle. The next thing I worked on was the case feeder. My goal was to get it to load cases faster than I could pull the handle. Well, I did this on all except large rifle brass. Now, I could probably put a faster motor in the collator but that would have made it not 100% Hornady. Now, the last thing I needed to do was to get the bullet feeder to load bullets perfectly faster than I could pull the handle. This was accomplished with fine adjustments.

Now, I have not had a missed primer since May 23, 2015. And I have not had an upside down brass or jam for the last 8 months. And I have not had a bullet load upside down in the last 8 months. And no matter what caliber I load they all are under 5 min for 100 rounds. Now since I have the Hornady power check die that will lock up the press and send an alarm if I have a low or high power in the case I need to learn not to look in each case before the bullet is set. I could cut my time down 1/5 of a second per round.

Now, will the Dillon press be able to run faster than you can pull the handle? Yes. Will the case feeder load cases faster than you can pull the handle? Yes, but you can't load bullets by hand as fast as you can pull the handle.
 
I know what the "powder thru expander" is; just wasn't familiar with the abbreviation
Sorry, didn't realize when I made that post you are currently using Lee dies and a Pro Disk, yep Lee powder dies have the PTX.
You will need to buy the PTX for the Hornady Powder measure for the caliber you are loading. (it is a nice measure)
You can also use your Lee Pro Disk on the LNL if you want to, works fine.


So I guess I,
1. decap and tumble
2. hand prime
3. go to press and resize
4. flare and charge
5. seat
6. crimp

I would sort of change it a little bit
1 Decap/resize
2 I would go ahead and flair, since you will be making 2 passes through the press (I do to)
3 Tumble
4 Prime, either hand primer or on the press
5 Charge
6 seat bullet
7 crimp

If you make one pass to deprime, might as well resize and flair while you are at it. You still only touch the case one time here.
I need to do a quick clean before deprime because my range has sandy/clay so I have sticky abrasive for dirt. (wash in bucket first, then15-30 minutes in the tumbler to a quick clean)
I was just deprimeing and resizing before the main tumble of about an hour but decided to go ahead and do the flair in that pass.
Since you touch the case once and have 5 stations you can do what you want to it before it gets spit out, no extra work to flair in the first pass..
Making two passes is more work and time but I like having clean primer pockets (probably does not make any difference but hey they look nice)
My press is out in a shed so like I mentioned I like to hand prime while watching TV. Picking up the primers with the tube to fill it is a pain. If you are going to prime on press you probably want to get one of the devices to fill the primer tubes.

The press primes well on press, I just prefer not to mess with it.
There are different ways to go about it so you just need to find out what works best for you.
If you don't want to tumble the deprimed brass you just do everything in one pass. (faster)
I am like you and I like to tumble the deprimed brass so it takes me two passes.
I like having primed brass to feed the press, nice not to have to mess with priming on press.

Hope you enjoy your LNL.
 
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Maybe.. I like having the brass already ready; I'll give the LNL a shot at priming; I'll definitely keep decapping then cleaning. I like those clean pockets, and it's good to inspect them anyway.

I also decap before wet tumbling. I have a lot of cases for the calibers I load so I just shoot till I have enough to fill my tumbler then do a decap and inspection then clean. Once you get the priming system set up perfect and get confident using it you will use it. I have a RCBS hand primer that I used before getting my LNL and it hasn't been used in a long time.
 
You will need to buy the PTX for the Hornady Powder measure for the caliber you are loading.
Man, I thought I ordered all I needed, and now your telling me the powder expander isn't included with the powder measure like it is in the Lee Pro? I guess they're case specific also? I might have to use one of the Lee's for awhile if it works with the LNL as I acquire the "numerous" accessories. This endeavor is getting to be a "buy as you go" project, and living out in the boonies like I do, I only get to a sizable town once a month. I just can't justify multiple shipping charges for and item here, and an item there. The press will be delivered tomorrow and hopefully I'll be out of physical therapy and back home when it arrives.
 
I need to do a quick clean before deprime because my range has sandy/clay so I have sticky abrasive for dirt.
Must be a real bummer having to clean your brass twice. I shoot off my deck in my back yard which is my range. All my brass falls on the nice clean stained deck; it's easy to find and pickup also.

If your going the PTX route you may want to consider getting extra Powder die base assemblies.
Not quite sure what this is. If I'm understanding you right, the die base is the adjustment for the amount of the charge dropped? So if one of these base units in in a bushing, you would just replace the whole bushing assembly, then reinstall the powder measure? Then how would the expander work? I'm going to have to see this; a picture is worth 1000 words.
 
Man, I thought I ordered all I needed, and now your telling me the powder expander isn't included with the powder measure like it is in the Lee Pro?

John, you don’t need the PTX to use your press. I thought about using one to free up a station for a powder cop die. I found that I don’t have a problem looking into the case to see if there is powder in it before I set the bullet on it. I thought I wanted one, but I never got around to buying one.

Good luck with your new press. I hope you like it as much as I like mine.
 
Must be a real bummer having to clean your brass twice. I shoot off my deck in my back yard which is my range. All my brass falls on the nice clean stained deck; it's easy to find and pickup also.


Not quite sure what this is. If I'm understanding you right, the die base is the adjustment for the amount of the charge dropped? So if one of these base units in in a bushing, you would just replace the whole bushing assembly, then reinstall the powder measure? Then how would the expander work? I'm going to have to see this; a picture is worth 1000 words.

The powder adj is different than the adj the expander. Depending on who dies you have you may have a expander die in your set. All my handgun dies have this 3 die. The case activated powder dump can do 2 functions. The main function is to dump powder like all powder dispensers do. Since it's case activated and only will dump when a case is present it can be used to expand the case at the same time. The PTX goes inside the powder die base and the powder dispenser sits on top of it. The brass contacts the PTX (if used) and rotates up till it full strokes (PTX stop) then as the ram continues up it dumps the powder and full expands the case. The PTX's I have are very similar to the M-die. Meaning it's double step. And yes there are several sized for the appropriate caliber. The adj for the powder dump is normally with the linkage where the PTX is the powder die base or PTX Stop. The stop main function is to prevent from over stressing the
linkage and failing it. I failed mine before the PTX Stop was released. Like I said earlier if you go this way the extra powder die assemblies make it a quick change setup when changing calibers. So it retains all the settings for that particular caliber/bullet setup.

I primer on the press, pistol and rifle (223). The LNL-AP has one of the best press priming systems I've ever worked with. Just take the time to get every thing adj perfectly and it will not miss a lick. I've setup several for friends and neighbors. Once setup right it will feed any size primers fast as you can run the ram up and down. It does take a little time to get it adj right so plan on spending some time on it. Well worth the effort. Once adj you may never have to touch it again unless you move something. There are several threads on adjustments and tweaks to make the LNL-AP run trouble free.

If you run into problems just post here on THR or call Hornady CS.
 
There are lots of good utube videos out there on setting it up.
Google Setting up Hornady Progressive utube
Hornady also has vids on their website.

I shoot off my deck in my back yard which is my range
Sweet, maybe someday when I retire I can get some property some place where I can do that....part of my retirement dream.

You don't have to have the Hornady PTX to load of course, just frees up a station.
If you are making two passes thru the press and flair on the first pass when you deprime/resize you don't need it.
Here is Hornadys die layout to help you think about it.
(I don't use their suggested setup, it's just handy having the pic so you can think about what you want to put where. When I added the bullet feeder and lockout die/powder cop that used up two stations and since I wanted to use the Lee FCD that took a 3rd, it helped me by drawing it out on a piece of paper)

If you only make one pass and want a bullet drop or powder cop/lockout die (prefer lockout die as you have to watch the powder cop) you will need the Hornady PTX (or you will have to use your Lee measure)
Here is one of a couple vids out there on setting up the Lockout die in case you get one.

What happens if it locks is the case won't go all the way up and that prvents the press from advancing the cases to the next station.


Capture5.JPG

If you decide to make two passes
Station 1 can be the deprime/resize
then you can flair with whatever you want to use on any of the other 4 stations.
If you like to use a universal decap you could do it in station 1 (decap has to happen in station 1, because of the pin and the spent primers being ejected)
then you could resize (with the pin removed from the die) on 2,3 or 4, then flair on a station after the resize.

Here is a link to the manual (.pdf) if you don't have it already and would like to read it before you get the press.

https://press.hornady.com/assets/pc...-N-Load---AP-Press-Instructions1501763726.pdf

Please keep us posted on your LNL adventure.:)
Enjoy

PS: You will see it in the vids but you will most likely want a lockwasher to go on the bolt that holds the shellplate down.
 
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Preacher John, feel free to contact me using the messaging feature of the forum if I can help you, but here are a few suggestions and comments.

First, watch the Hornady video series on setting up the press. There should be a DVD in the box but you can also find the videos on Hornady's website and on YouTube. They made the videos before Hoirnady developed the EZ-Ject feature so the videos show an ejection wire that folds over the top of the shellplate ; just ignore it.

Follow Hornady's advice to clean all of the rust prevention grease from the parts, most especially the powder measure assembly. Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner and Dry Lube (not to be confused with One Shot Case Lube) but if you don't have that you can use a different degreaser.

The case activated powder measure system comes in two "halves"; the top is the powder measure and the external linkage that causes it to cycle. The measure has two swappable drums (called " rotors"), one with a larger chamber for use loading rifle ammo, and a pistol rotor with a smaller chamber. A measuring stem fits into the chamber of the rotor and can be changed out at the press of a button. The standard stems are about ten dollars; I keep a couple of them set for pet loads and keep them in the box with the corresponding dies. Hornady also sells a micrometer style insert which allows you to write down specific settings. The quick change stems is a feature I don't see mentioned often.

The bottom half of the powder measure system is threaded like a die so it mounts with an LNL bushing. The linkage attaches to it, and the drop tube of the powder measure inserts from above, atop a cylindrical spacer or a powder through expander (PTX). As a case is raised into the assembly, it pushes up on the spacer/PTX which raises the measure and the linkage causes the rotor to cycle, dumping a charge into the case. You set the depth of the lower assembly in the press to match the length of the cartridge case.

You could adjust the depth of the lower assembly in the press each time you change calibers, but the better way is to purchase extra lowers (what Hornady calls a Quick Change Powder Die) to have one for each cartridge.

Let me add my endorsement of the RCBS !ockout Die, but it can only be used for straight wall pistol cartridges. hornady has a similar product but I forget the name.

Last, take a look at Inline Fabrication, a small company that makes accessories for the LNL-AP and other presses.
 
it helped me by drawing it out on a piece of paper
This is one of the best piece of advice to get my head wrapped around setting one of these up.

I never dreamed there were so many different options on this press. Being as I've used the Classic Turret for some time now, set up like it is for all 4 calipers on 4 different turrets with 4 of it's own powder measures that I reload I may need to reconsider how to use a new press. I can see how the powder cop/lock out would be of great benefit if you really get rolling along. This never was an issue on the Lee CT, but I watched the case go thru all 4 stations and had to stick the bullet on myself, then stick in another case. I have plenty of shooting ammo loaded up, so I'm in no hurry setting this thing up, I'll take my time, I have a whole winter ahead, LOL. I'll definitely check out the videos, and read up on the manual. Sometimes things don't process in my mind right away (old age), but you guys have been more then willing to help me out on using this new press. And I still have the old Lee set up; it's actually mounted to a 2x6 and I clamp it on my workbench when I reload; the RCBS is the same way for decapping.

but I don't understand getting a progressive press and priming buy hand
Apparanty you never messed with a Lee Classic Turret priming system. I never could get into that type of rhythm. Pulling out that clean brass from a storage container, and priming 500 or so cases while watching my favorite college basketball team has gotten to be a nice past time (unless they lose, that could mess things up).
Besides, I got use to the main motion (down) and when the rod goes up, it just needs to index the turret. What difference does it make? Whenever you get going on the progressive, you're still making the same amount of bullets, whether you prime now, or prime before. There's many days I don't even reload the same time I prime. But I will try it, just to see what it's like.
 
I got in the habit of priming by hand when using my old Lee 3 hole turret. (still use it for small batches, load workups).
Priming by hand gives me a chance to do brass inspection before I go to load, important since I use range brass.
I also like the fact that I have better feel for seating the primer when priming by hand.

Like you I usually prime cases while watching the tube, football, NASCAR race, news etc, so really no time wasted priming by hand.

I understand the feeling that making two passes takes twice as many handle pulls, but to me it's worth it, to others it may not be. (probably less of us that like to deprime resize and clean than those who don't, no right or wrong here)
 
Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner and Dry Lube (not to be confused with One Shot Case Lube) but if you don't have that you can use a different degreaser.
Is there something special about this degreaser, or just hype because it's the same brand? I have Birchwood-Casey gun scrubber, brake cleaner, and carb cleaner that degrease really well. Probably have some Locktite degreaser in the garage also. All of these should cut the grease on the press, just don't know about the paint? Even Horandy says to keep their degreaser off the plastic pieces.
 
One other tool/accessory you may want to get is the LNL-AP Wrench that Hornady makes. This wrench has a ear sticking out to hold the shell plate so you can tighten the retainer bolt. I have never seen a need for a lock washer under the retaining allen head cap screw. I've had my press since 2003 and well over 100k rounds through it. The problem people have is unable to hold the shell plate so they can tighten it. Another way is use a pin that fit into the primer drop hole to lock the shell plate. I prefer the Powder cop die over the lockout die due to the fact it get you accustomed to checking the powder drop in pistol and rifle. Since the lockout die only works for pistol, it forces you to do something different than your normal routine. I also do a visual inspection before I set the bullet in station 4. Crimp in 5.

If your dealing with crimped primer pockets (mil brass), Hornady makes a special die/tool set for dealing with these. It takes a not so pleasant task and make it a breeze to do. They make 2 sizes, 223R/5.56 and 7.62/308W ( small and larger primer respectfully).

I have a feeder on my LNL. I use it a lot for de-primming brass before cleaning with the FART SS pin system. When I do this I have the primer seating punch removed so all the debree has a way out.

If you don't have a air source to keep the press clean, the can air dusters work just fine.

Just take your time and learn how the press operates. It will help you out when you have to trouble shoot a jam. The most common problem is primers sticking to a deprimer pin being drawn back into the pocket preventing the shell plate from rotating.

There are enough of us using these presses to solve any problem you may run into.

Enjoy, Be Safe.
 
Been a while but as I recall mine gave with some kind of sticky protective coating. Kind of a cosmoline for presses.:barf:
The gun cleaner and lube removes it and lubes/rust protection. The Birchwood Casey gun scrubber will probably work just as well as the Hornady product.
Brake cleaner/carb cleaner/auto de-greaser would work but then you would need to lube afterwards with something.

If you don't by a primer tube filler you will need a primer flip tray to fill up the primer tubes. (got to get the primers all the right direction so you can pick them up with the tube)
(only necessary if you prime on press)
Reloading sometimes makes me think of that movie with Tom Hanks and Shelly Long - The Money Pit:)

Oh and a grease gun, need to shoot grease in the press zerk fittings. Didn't have one as none of my cars seem believe in such a thing as a grease fitting.

It is a good press really, just needs a few odds and ends to keep it happy.

PS: primed 1000 cases while watching football today.
I found putting a piece of 1/2" clear plastic tubing around of the handle of my Lee hand primer makes it much more comfortable to use. Cheap addition.
 
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John don't use carb cleaner or brake cleaner on the powder measure. It may, I repeat may mess up the plastic powder tube. Use soapy water and a lot of scrubbing then the LNLcleaner if you have it.

As far as the PTX is concerned, I use it on mine but it doesn't work well for me with coated bullets. Plated or jacketed it works well just not coated. Hard to explain but you don't need the PTX you can use the case mouth expander die. The purpose of the PTX is to free up a station. This is handy if you want to use a separate seating die and crimp die and also have either a bullet feeder or powder lock out die.

Once you get it and set up much of what you are being told will make much more sense. Unlike the LCT, the 5 station progressive press can be set up numerous ways to meet your needs. You bought a good press and we will help you figure things out don't panic.

Out of the box without a case feeder you can load between 400 to about 450 rounds per hour. Add a case feeder and that number will go way up. The press comes with I think 1 each small and large primer pick-up tube. You might consider buying a few more so you can just refill the primer supply without stopping after you load 100 rounds. The best deal I have seen on these tubes is on amazon or ebay for a pack of 4 Dillon tubes. This is a rare case where Dillon is not only the better product but also the least expensive. But for now just get the press set up and running.
 
Apparanty you never messed with a Lee Classic Turret priming system. I never could get into that type of rhythm. Pulling out that clean brass from a storage container, and priming 500 or so cases while watching my favorite college basketball team has gotten to be a nice past time (unless they lose, that could mess things up).
Besides, I got use to the main motion (down) and when the rod goes up, it just needs to index the turret. What difference does it make? Whenever you get going on the progressive, you're still making the same amount of bullets, whether you prime now, or prime before. There's many days I don't even reload the same time I prime. But I will try it, just to see what it's like.
I have a LCT and use it for rounds that I load in smaller quantities, 50 or 100 at a time. I don't have the priming system for it and even with it I wouldn't consider it a progressive press. To me a progressive press produces a finished round with every pull of the lever. I use a LNL.
As I said, however anyone wants to load, it should be a fun hobby in itself.
 
I had to go to town today and started looking for some Hornady LNL Gun cleaner and lube. Somehow I missed the lube part (the lube) when this product was mentioned and got stuck on the degreaser part. Seeing since it is a dry lube, it might be good to use in a the powder drop. Alas, the LGS was out, and Walmart only had the CLS stuff. The press will be here this aftn. Oh well, I need to travel to a different town tomorrow for a doc check up, I'll check their LGS while I'm there.

One more thing; the reason I went to town today was for physical therapy for some very aggravating shin splints in my right leg. The therapist said she'll need to start some sort of kinseology wraps, or something like that and that I had to shave my leg. WHA??? I never shaved my leg before; any tips?
 
One more thing; the reason I went to town today was for physical therapy for some very aggravating shin splints in my right leg. The therapist said she'll need to start some sort of kinseology wraps, or something like that and that I had to shave my leg. WHA??? I never shaved my leg before; any tips?
You are asking a bunch of guys on a gun forum if they have any hints for shaving legs? :rofl: Don't everyone jump in at once!

Seriously, though, good luck with your shin splints.
 
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