Stock 10/22.....Where do you go from here?

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One of the things that bugged me about stock 10-22s is that they have/had a first-shot flyer problem. I analyzed it and discovered that the operating handle was tight in the bolt slot and when used to function the action to load the first round of a new full magazine into the chamber, the handle would bind the firing pin and the drag would often cause squib firing for the first shot of a fresh magazine. Grinding the operating handle a bit would allow it to move without discernable binding and the malady disappeared...just like that!!!

Yes, other mods that help include improving the trigger pull, most easily changed by buying an after-market trigger.

Pillar-bedding helps, but instead of free-floating the barrel, I bedded it with several pounds of uplift near the end of the forend, because the aluminum receiver can't seem to keep the barrel from wandering from inconsistent vibrations, shot to shot.
 
I had a Clerk 16 in heavy barrel, Power Customs target hammer, A Corelight synthetic stock, & a no name nylon bolt buffers. To that I added a BSA rimfire scope higher magnification and a turret for elevation & adjustable AO.

I used it to shoot prairie dogs out to 150 yards or so. Now my older son has it and could really get that gun to go the distance, he's high functioning special needs and was a really good shot, with rifle & shotgun. He's grown now & hasn't been out with me for a few years.
 
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Does anyone buy any model of 10/22 and shoot it stock or is that sacrilege?
I did with my 10/22s ... including Take Down model.

With the latest Collector #3 model, I kept it completely stock during the 3000 round "real world break in" where trigger went from 7.5 lbs down to 4.7-4.8 lbs. Only changes I made were free floating the barrel with hard plastic shim under the V-block and better securing the rear of receiver with a strip of electrical tape - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...lector-3-break-in.859106/page-3#post-12075391

Even the barrel was intentionally left "uncleaned" and I only mopped the bore with Hoppes #9 and dry patched using Viva paper towel and this "factory stock" 10/22 produced around 1" 10 shot groups with ammunition of choice (CCI SV/Blazer LRN/Aguila 40 gr CPRN) and on last range trip shooting off Lead Sled, produced around 1/2" group which I am sure was a fluke.

I am planning to repeat the range test before cleaning the bore to do a myth busting "clean vs dirty barrel" group size comparison thread.

And since I ordered a 16.5" KSA bull barrel for my T/CR22 which was kept factory stock for 1000 round "real world break in" test (Also no barrel cleaning), I may try factory barrel off T/CR22 on the 10/22 - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...mmo-comparison-break-in.864241/#post-12075377
 
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My first firearm was a 10/22 standard carbine purchased in the late 1970s. A plinker but not exceptionally accurate.

Many years later when my daughters were old enough to shoot, I had stumbled onto the Rimfire Central website (big mi$take) and purchased a Volquartsen target hammer and bolt release bundle. It made an immediate improvement in the trigger. Not long after that I purchased a CZ 452 bolt rifle (see what I meant about Rimfire Central?), only to find that my semiauto had a better trigger than the CZ. I would recommend the VQ hammer as an inexpensive upgrade.

Years later I read about a fellow who could modify a Ruger barrel, so I sent it off. He turned the barrel, set it in an aluminum sleeve with a 0.92” OD, recut a Bentz chamber, and threaded the muzzle. I remounted the action in a Magpul stock and it shoots pretty well now. I liked the idea of tweaking the original barrel instead of replacing it.
 
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