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Stubborn Copper Fouling

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by Iansstud, Feb 11, 2009.

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  1. Iansstud

    Iansstud Member

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    Hey All,

    I am on my 3rd Copper solvent, I cant seem to get rid of the copper!

    I have a Remington 700 SPS Tactical in 308. I will shoot 5-10rds a week. Maby I am doing something wrong... here is how I clean it.

    after shooting, Ill strip the action off the stock, pull the bolt. Ill run a patch of remoil down the bore, and repeat untill I have removed all the black color. Then I'll put my 30 cal mop in with (rem 40x cleaner, or Hoppes 9 solvent, or Hoppes Elite (goo)) and then Ill let it sit for 5-10 min. then pull a brush through 5-10 times. A patch to clean it out, then a second mop with remOil. clean the rest of the gun, lightly coat in RemOil, and Done....

    when Im all done Ill through my bore light in and I can still see Copper!! its just on the tops of the lands on the rifling...

    Am I cleaning right?

    Does this hurt my accuracy?

    I only have 63rds on the gun total. and am the original owner... any Ideas?

    Thanks guys- Ian
     
  2. 351 WINCHESTER

    351 WINCHESTER Member

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    Get some j & b bore paste and put a patch over a cleaning brush. Coat the patch with j & b and make 50 or so passes thru your bore. This should remove all the copper and polish your bore also which should reduce fouling.

    Worked for me and never did any harm whatsoever.
     
  3. matrem

    matrem Member

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    Which three copper solvents are you using? Unless the Hoppes 9 you're using is "Benchrest" # 9,I'm not certain that you've used a copper solvent yet.
    JB does work,but "be carefull with that" a genuine copper solvent & JB bore brite is a better option IMO.
     
  4. R.W.Dale

    R.W.Dale Member

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    do yourself a favor and purchase a big bottle of Sweets 7.62 solvent. All Hoppes products are good for] is sweeping a little crud from the bbl of grandpaws shotgun. As a side benefit if you have a stuffy nose you won't have after using Sweets

    [​IMG]

    most likely if the fouling is as bad as you describe
     
  5. Afy

    Afy Member

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    Actually KG 12 or Robala Solo Mil are the very best copper removers on the market that are not abrasive.
    Google it... :)
     
  6. MCMXI

    MCMXI Member

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    I use and like Sweet's 7.62. I've found that I don't need to use it any more on my two Krieger barrels because copper doesn't build up in them. I'm still using it on a Remington 700 since I'm still getting copper fouling in that barrel (which I didn't break-in following Krieger's recommended procedure).

    There are folks here that think that barrel break-in is a bunch of BS ... I don't based on my recent experience!! According to Krieger, the throat of the barrel is what really needs to be broken in. All of the tooling marks that run perpendicular to the bore will create a "copper plasma" that will deposit in the barrel. If you don't remove the copper every shot for five shots, then after three shots, then after five shots, you'll be cleaning copper out of the barrel months from now. I plan to start again with my 700.

    :)
     
  7. R.W.Dale

    R.W.Dale Member

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    wow your hand lapped Kreiger barrels don't foul as badly as a cheap sewer pipe factory barrel........imagine that:rolleyes:

    WELL stop the presses that proves barrel break in right there
     
  8. W.E.G.

    W.E.G. Member

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    Did you say you are pulling the action out of the stock every time you clean it?

    I think you are going way overboard.
    Certainly with the disassembly, and also with the notion that it makes one bit of difference in the function of the gun if it has a little bit of copper streaked in the barrel.
     
  9. MCMXI

    MCMXI Member

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    Once again your "know-it-all" attitude and general arrogance bubble to the surface ... :rolleyes: When you bitch and moan about Federal primer packaging it's fine, but when other's complain about the lack of availability or the cost of bullets you post juvenile images of menstrual cramp medication. You really DO suffer from small-man complex don't you.

    If you bothered to read my post, and read Krieger's explanation of copper fouling, you'd realize that Krieger DOESN'T polish and lap the THROATS of their barrels and it's the tooling marks IN THE THROAT which contribute greatly to copper fouling.
     
  10. R.W.Dale

    R.W.Dale Member

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    When people piss and whine about the help they receive you're damn right!

    Let those without sin cast the first stone.

    I seem to remember your topic along the lines of "BWAAAA ^$%^#%^* Sierra bullets, stuff costs more nowadays"
     
  11. matrem

    matrem Member

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    Umm? WOW! Glad I'm not the OP looking for advice.
    OP. I want to add that if you use "polishing" compound,be esp carefull at the crown & always use a bore guide with your cleaning rod, whether using paste or solvent.
     
  12. Horsemany

    Horsemany Member

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    Back under your bridge Krochus!!!

    Iansstud,

    You haven't used a real copper solvent yet. Hoppe's 9 will work but you need to let it soak over night. Probably 2 nights in a row like that brushing and reapplying after the first night.

    I've used most of the big tried and true solvents like Sweets, Barnes CR-10, JB bore paste, etc. etc. I have the best luck with Gunslick foaming bore cleaner. Just shove the straw up tight into the chamber, give it a toot until some comes out of the muzzle. Let it sit for about 30minutes and patch out clean. You'll see some really dark almost purple patches. Follow it up with a light oil and you're done. And don't be bothered if you have a few very minor copper streaks left. It won't hurt anything. Every gun I own shoots best when it's not perfectly clean. No need to de-stock your rifle for cleaning either.
     
  13. Geno

    Geno Member

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    Leadout cloth works great, as does JB bore paste.
     
  14. Curator

    Curator Member

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    The active ingredient of Sweets is ammonia. Ammonia disolves copper into solution. Concentrated Ammonia will etch steel. If you allow Sweets (7.5% Ammonia) it can etch the bore. If you plug the bore and fill the barrel with household Ammonia (2%) and allow it to sit overnight it will disolve most if not all of the copper without damaging the bore. Simply unplug and the copper pours out. Be sure to degrease the bore first and use a good nitro-powder solvent as well since oil and ironed on powder will prevent the ammonia from getting at the copper.
     
  15. Travis Bickle

    Travis Bickle member

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    I've heard this stated on gun forums before, but I have a rather hard time believing it. The label on Sweet's clearly states that it's harmless to steel. If this were untrue, the manufacturer would've been sued long ago.
     
  16. LTR shooter

    LTR shooter Member

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    On the bottle of Sweets it also states "Do not to leave solvent in barrel for periods longer than 15 minutes" You can even read it on the bottle in pic above if you look closely. So , if not used as directed there is apparently some harm that can occur.

    I've used it and make it a point not to leave it in the barrel very long at all. But it has worked well for me.
     
  17. Ol` Joe

    Ol` Joe Member

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    Soak it over night with WipeOut or Forests foam then a simple patch out and oil in the morning.
    Both are non toxic and are safe to leave in your barrels. I doubt you will need more then one treatment in any barrel you have to get it clean.
     
  18. Floppy_D

    Floppy_D Member In Memoriam

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    Sweets 7.62 or Barnes CR-10, NFETP.
     
  19. Travis Bickle

    Travis Bickle member

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    I've heard good things about WipeOut. I recently bought a can of Outers foaming bore cleaner, which I assume is the same thing. Haven't got a chance to try it yet, though.
     
  20. mljdeckard

    mljdeckard Member

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    I used the Outers foaming stuff once. My dad has a policy to clean his guns once after each war, I had so much copper it was a nightmare to clean out. It worked, but it was after EXTENSIVE brush cleaning, I don't know how well it would do on its own.

    I rarely if EVER remove my actions from the stocks on my 700s. Remember, you want a nice tight fit between the action and the stock. Every time you remove it unnecessarily, you are creating wear and play. If you actually bed the action, you probably don't EVER want to remove it, unless you're ready to bed it again. (Not impossibly difficult, but not how I like to spend a saturday.)

    Do you use a rod guide? You are more likely to ding up the crown and mess up your accuracy without one.
     
  21. Travis Bickle

    Travis Bickle member

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    No, but next paycheck I'm buying some Dewey rods. They're nylon-coated and supposedly won't mess up your crowns.
     
  22. USSR

    USSR Member

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    Quote:
    Do you use a rod guide?

    They will after you've worn thru the nylon coating by not using a rod guide. Buy a rod guide.

    Don
     
  23. _N4Z_

    _N4Z_ Member

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    sweets 7.62

    or

    barnes cr10


    both have done the job for me in new, older, surplus, and antique (100+ yr older) rifles.


    sweets is a little easier to use as it is the thicker of the two and less prone to spillage.
     
  24. doctorxring

    doctorxring Member

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    .

    I used to use Sweet's. But I don't like Ammonia and
    quit using it when I found BoreTech Eliminator. Better
    performing than Sweet's. NO ammonia.

    Great product.


    [​IMG]
     
  25. jester_s1

    jester_s1 Member

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    OP- you need a bore guide and a good rod. The Dewey's is fine.

    Use whichever product you like from the ones listed. Push a patch on a jag through from back to front, remove, and repeat. Be careful of your crown when you come out the front and you'll do fine.
     
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