Success, well, , kinda, sorta

doubleh

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2007
Messages
8,698
Location
NM- far south of I-40
I have posted about my new Canik. The reduced power recoil spring was a total dud with any regular 9mm ammo so I went looking for NATO rated on the internet and found Winchester and Monarch. I ordered one box of each and it arrived yesterday afternoon. Finally by using the reduced power spring I got the Winchester to work correctly. One shot and a stove pipe was the result with the Monarch.

I am beginning to regret buying this gun. Yes, it has a very nice trigger for a striker fired pistol and is easy to take apart to clean. I like it's fit in my hand but on the other hand I find the slide very difficult to rack. Much more so than any other 9mm gun I have owned but I have little muscle left. 1911's are a snap compared to the Canik. Magazines aren't the easiest to load either. A range trip to determine it's accuracy may or may not improve my opinion of it. If it turns out to be really accurate I can forgive it a little.
 
In my experience Winchester are loaded with fast burning powder so they have a good initial recoil impulse that helps alot with reliability.

The performance of your Canik is unacceptable. I'd sent it back for warranty repair.

Can you please post a pic of the recoil spring assembly to see if it is interchangeable with a Walther P99/PPQ/PDP one? At this point I'd also take a look at the ejector.
 
If it’s a reduced power recoil spring, why should the OP send it back for warranty service? Is the “reduced power spring” aftermarket?
 
The pistol is not working as it should and that is from day one. Even with the factory reduced recoil spring assembly it is working correctly only with the Winchester NATO spec. It's not normal.
 
I don’t want to throw this out there to cause a commotion, but..

For limited hand/wrist/arm strength, it might be the operator that’s the issue rather than the gun. It’s well documented that a weak grip can cause a Glock to malfunction, can apply to any semi auto.
 
Winchester SG9W 115 grain is your ticket. These run 1330-1350 fps in my guns. Monarch will be very lucky to break 1100 fps (NATO my ass) and should not be used in a new gun IMO.

Edited to add: I do not mean to impugn you in the slightest but @actionexpress may have a point to ponder about grip strength. Small, polymer striker fired guns need a very firm grip to function properly. My daughter (110 lbs) is a seasoned handgun shooter with revolvers and service-sized pistols, but she can’t get through a magazine with my SIG P365 without jams. When I had severe tendonitis in my thumb I couldn’t shoot polymer autos at all without stoppages.
 
Last edited:
I have posted about my new Canik. The reduced power recoil spring was a total dud with any regular 9mm ammo so I went looking for NATO rated on the internet and found Winchester and Monarch. I ordered one box of each and it arrived yesterday afternoon. Finally by using the reduced power spring I got the Winchester to work correctly. One shot and a stove pipe was the result with the Monarch.

I am beginning to regret buying this gun. Yes, it has a very nice trigger for a striker fired pistol and is easy to take apart to clean. I like it's fit in my hand but on the other hand I find the slide very difficult to rack. Much more so than any other 9mm gun I have owned but I have little muscle left. 1911's are a snap compared to the Canik. Magazines aren't the easiest to load either. A range trip to determine it's accuracy may or may not improve my opinion of it. If it turns out to be really accurate I can forgive it a little.
I have had many pistols that are reported by the manufacture to need a break in period before they become reliable. Most of these have been pocket sized guns but even my brand new Desert Eagle L5 in 50ae had initial teething pains. All of these have turned into great 100% reliable shooters by stripping the gun clean of oil. Putting Flitz polish on the rails and other contact parts. Then working the slide about 1000 times by hand before stripping, cleaning off the Flitz thoroughly and reassembling with proper lube. I have never had a problem with this procedure loosening the pistol up but it always smooths out the action considerably while achieving 100% reliability.

My RIA 1911's all functioned perfectly out of the box. I used the Flitz polish process on them anyway with a noticeable improvement in smoothness.

I think of the Flitz as an accelerated break in process without any unwanted loosening up of the action.
 
Get someone else to shoot doubt its you but do it before sending back. So the reduced recoil spring did not work, how many rounds have you fired in it never believed in breaking but if you have fired 100 rounds I would say that was enough. I would send it back with a note and both recoil springs let them fix it. It's not worth wasting range time and ammo much beyond the point you are at now. In your letter state what ammo you have used list several brands stating other shooters and lower powered spring from them and state how its jamming. Every maker creates a lemon once in a while. If you are the type to never trust it again get it back shoot it a box or 2 and sell it for something else.
 
Thanks for all what-to-dos. I am old and like everyone that becomes old I have lost some strength but not enough to limp wrist. In fact I was very careful to make sure I wasn't doing that. Yes, I got another shooter to try it and his results were the same as mine. It is a full sized pistol and it's barrel is slightly longer than a full sized 1911. We both switched to other 9 mm guns and had no problems. If this was a 1 or 2 a mag thing I wouldn't be so down on it but it was every single shot except the very first one. That one barely barely made it out of the ejection port and fell at my feet. After that it was lock the slide back, drop the magazine, and push the empty out of the chamber with a rod. Like I said, this thing is extremely hard to rack the slide and my arm would play out long before I worked the slide by hand enough to do any good so I will pay Winchester to do the work for me. Racking the slide is kind of a double clutch thing. First half is about like a 1911. Then you hit the hard spot when the barrel unlocks and drops. When that gets worn in maybe it will be OK. I can fit a barrel to a 1911 but have no clue about this thing. Just a little metal needs removed but I don't know exactly where or how much.
 
Here is a slide assist handle. They make them for Canik pistols. Scroll down.

There is also this thing, though I can’t see it used on a carry gun.
 
Thanks for the ideas but the gun comes with one as long as you use a red dot sight. The plate for the standard rear iron sight doesn't accept it. :thumbdown: Only the red dot sight plates accept the assist rod. It's a bit Micky Mouse IMO as it's a slender pin and looks like it would be uncomfortable in use. I think I might come up with a way to increase it's diameter but haven't given it much thought yet as I have been more interested in getting the gun to work correctly. This is strictly a range gun to shoot steel and paper and will never be a carry gun.

There is also the fact that my fingers have become stiff and don't work well in the last year. A recent blood test showed that I now have rheumatoid arthritis which is most likely the cause. The first example looks good but I am not sure I have enough grip to use it. I have the plastic gadget that I found on Amazon that fits over the muzzle and is large enough to grip fairly easy that helps. It's slow and a bit clumsy but that's me every day now.

If the pistol breaks in and will run regular ammo I will put a red dot on it and then deal with the factory rack assist pin. If not I will probably trade it in on something else that is more user friendly. Purchasing the second option might be the simplest solution for a slide racker assist.
 
Last edited:
Hmmmmmm. If the gun is that hard to rack, and won't cycle standard ammunition, the issue isn't the recoil spring. It's mechanical, resistance in the unlocking action. The resistance you encounter, after beginning the motion of the slide?
Had a BG1.0 that acted that way, and never did figure it out; even after two trips to Smith. You're ready for warranty work, and be very specific about what you have found.
Good luck,
Moon
 
Back
Top Bottom