Summer Maintenance of EDC

Mr. Mosin

Mr. Mosin

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Jun 26, 2019
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I’ve carried wheel guns on the belt in years past, pocket carried a snub revolver occasionally, but this is my first S. MS summer pocket carrying an autoloader and a compact in a pancake rig.

Would the same general principle apply- check for rust/wear daily (or every other day), field strip/clean/oil weekly; wipe down with an oiled rag ?
 
Mr. Mosin said:
I’ve carried wheel guns on the belt in years past, pocket carried a snub revolver occasionally, but this is my first S. MS summer pocket carrying an autoloader and a compact in a pancake rig.

Would the same general principle apply- check for rust/wear daily (or every other day), field strip/clean/oil weekly; wipe down with an oiled rag ?
Click to expand...
By “S. MS summer,” I take it south Mississippi?
To answer your question, basically, yes.

I‘m on the gulf coast in Alabama and pocket carry a Colt Agent 38S year-round and I do just that - check it daily and wipe it down when I take off my pants/shorts and put it on the nightstand.
 
My routine is similar, except that I do not use oil, but instead use a boar's bristle shaving brush to apply a light coating of Howard's Wax It All inside the revolver frame window and on all exterior surfaces. I then wipe and buff off the excess with a corner of baby diaper. This leaves a dry protective film which is nonstaining and more resistant to sweat as well as being less prone to pick up pocket lint, dirt and grit.

Howard's is a blend of beeswax, carnuba and food grade mineral oil. Widely used in food service industry for food prep surfaces, wood, steel or leather. Good dubbing for holsters.
 
Outpost75 said:
My routine is similar, except that I do not use oil, but instead use a boar's bristle shaving brush to apply a light coating of Howard's Wax It All inside the revolver frame window and on all exterior surfaces. I then wipe and buff off the excess with a corner of baby diaper. This leaves a dry protective film which is nonstaining and more resistant to sweat as well as being less prone to pick up pocket lint, dirt and grit.

Howard's is a blend of beeswax, carnuba and food grade mineral oil. Widely used in food service industry for food prep surfaces, wood, steel or leather. Good dubbing for holsters.
Click to expand...

There are several Howard waxes. Is this the one you are using?

 
I wipe blue guns off with a piece of sheepskin that has Eezox on it at the end of the day. Same goes for any firearm, not just a carry piece.
 
I quit carrying blued/parked guns and using leather holsters decades ago. Things like Hard Chrome, Tennifer, kydex, etc, made a major difference in how daily use guns fared, and made life a lot easier, on both me and the guns.

These days, I still check them over at the end of the day. Usually, blow out the gun and holster with an air can, check both for any possible issues, and back they go. Between the Glocks finish (and a few of the other newer gun finishes as well) and the kydex holster, rust due to sweat really isnt an issue (or worry) anymore and is rarely, if ever seen. The odd spot on the slide release where the finish is gone is the only spot that might.
 
The pocket gun is the one to watch as it will be more exposed to sweat, unless the pancake rig is directly against your skin.
 
I carry OWB in a desert climate. The OP does far more maintenance than I do. Unless his conditions are truly horrendous, I am sure his routine is more than adequate.
 
Along with checking for rust every day or every other day, and oiling as needed or weekly. I also apply paste wax to my holster both front and back to help keep sweat from soaking in. I will occasionally blow the gun off with compressed air, and dry brush the sights to remove dust.
 
I carry a Shield 45acp lots of the time. Especially on the tractor.....At the end of the day I just blow it out/off with the air hose and back in the holster it goes........Take down and really clean maybe once a year.........It has never failed to fire and function.
 
I carry a blue snub more times than not. I keep an oily piece of sheepskin on top of my gun safe. Everytime I take the gun off my belt or out of my pocket for the day, I wipe it off. As far as actual cleaning goes, I can remember the last time I did it. It's been years.
 
On my autoloaders I use Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner and Lube CLP inside the action. The solvent removes lint, dirt, dust and the prior coating of lube from the prior treatment.
I also spray the inside of the slide to do the same. Afterwards I use Mobil 1 5w20 motor oil and lube per manufacturer’s suggestions and / or where experience tells me I should lube.
The Hornady lube takes care of lubing / protecting most of the gun works.

I carry OWB. I do this I do this once a month or after taking it to the range. In the summer I hit the range a lot more often than in winter so it gets more attention then.
 
Mr. Mosin said:
I’ve carried wheel guns on the belt in years past, pocket carried a snub revolver occasionally, but this is my first S. MS summer pocket carrying an autoloader and a compact in a pancake rig.

Would the same general principle apply- check for rust/wear daily (or every other day), field strip/clean/oil weekly; wipe down with an oiled rag ?
Click to expand...
I wish every day carriers followed that protocol.

Frequently when my son and I went to the old home place on the mountain to target practice, we'd meet up with friends or family who'd want to shoot their home or personal defense weapon for the first time in months. Occasionally there would be problems. I blamed a couple of those problems on carrying daily, sweating on the gun, and doing no checks or preventative maintenance.

GLOCK G42 .380
Problem: Frame rails and slide rail grooves rusted to where the gun would fire but not cycle.
Fix: We disassembled slide from frame. With paper towels, sharpened stick, truck dipstick oil, we removed rust from rails and grooves then lubed the rails and grooves with dipstick oil. Gun ran fine thereafter.

RUGER LCP .380
Problem: Extractor frozen with rust to where a cartridge could not be chambered.
Fix: I took the pistol home and looked up disassembly of LCP extractor (which aint easy & involves using a paperclip to retain the extractor spring plunger while removing the extractor).
I did not have to worry about the spring or plunger flying away to the realm of lost socks: the extractor, plunger and spring and their recesses inside the slide were horribly rusted. Once they were cleaned, I filled the extractor recesses with Rem Oil, reassembled the spring, plunger and extractor, and tested the pistol at the gun club range.

In both cases I suspect human sweat caused the rust.

Good advice: "... check for rust/wear daily (or every other day), field strip/clean/oil weekly; wipe down with an oiled rag ..."
 
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Don't know if this is true but I like the concept nonetheless, that S&W found a guy who was a super sweater and sodium oozed from every pore. S&W would give him a gun made of prototype steel, alloys and see how long it took for him to destroy it. :)
 
UncleEd said:
Don't know if this is true but I like the concept nonetheless, that S&W found a guy who was a super sweater and sodium oozed from every pore. S&W would give him a gun made of prototype steel, alloys and see how long it took for him to destroy it. :)
Click to expand...
My dad was one of those. He could rot a wristwatch in a year.
 
Wipe the outside down with a lint free cotton cloth and a good gun oil after handling. Maybe a puff of air and some Q-Tips for field strip if you are wearing your gun while bush hogging which I do sometimes.
 
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