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Super Blackhawk Disassembly

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by mje, Oct 24, 2011.

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  1. mje

    mje Member

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    I was nosing around the used cabinet of a local gunshop today when I noticed a Super Blackhawk with a mounted Bushnell Phantom for $550. "It's been here too long," the owner said. "You can have it for $350." I took it out to examine it. Some wear- and it was an original 3-screw version. Looking better all the time.

    The cylinder locked up nice and tight, but when I trued to remove it to examine the barrel, the cylinder pin wouldn't budge. I pushed in the release, as I do on my late model Blackhawk, but the cylinder pin wouldn't even wiggle. Is there something else you have to do on an old Super Blackhawk? Or is it perhaps frozen? The owner couldn't get it loose, either. I left my phone number and asked them to call me if they managed to free it.
     
  2. Remllez

    Remllez Member

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    May need a little Kroil on the pin and stand the gun upright overnight.
     
  3. BCRider

    BCRider Member

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    It SHOULD slip right out. I suspect a bit of penetrating oil or brute force with a blunt object that's softer than the steel to get some more leverage to pry the pin into moving is in order.

    What round is your new toy chambered in?
     
  4. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    There should be a semi-circle relief cut in the base pin flange that must be aligned with the barrel curvature.

    If you force it in and it wasn't aligned right, it will be wedged tight against the barrel!

    You need to use some leather padded pliers to turn the base pin until the relief cut aligns with the barrel curavature, and it easily come right out.

    Hope the gunshop don't screw it up messing with what they apparently don't understand.

    rc
     
  5. BossHogg

    BossHogg Member

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    Git on back down to the gunstore and tell them you'll take a chance on the gun for $300. Should only be jammed up and with a little oil and muscle power should do the trick.
     
  6. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    +1

    If all else fails you can take the hammer out and drive it out from the rear with a brass punch.
    I think?

    Can't recall for sure on a OM Ruger, but Colts work that way.

    rc
     
  7. mje

    mje Member

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    Good suggestions all. I'm guessing that some former owner may have hammered the pin in ;-)
     
  8. BCRider

    BCRider Member

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    RC, that should work but only after the "guts" are removed. Otherwise the transfer bar is in the way.

    From what you posted it also sounds like the pins on various model years are a bit different. For example my own SBH does not have an "indexing scoop" on the flange that holds it in orientation with the barrel. Instead there's the little saddle cut on the pin which the spring retainer slips into and that's it. So on mine I have to watch it to ensure that the cut is oriented correctly. If I turn it I can easily push the pin home but just as easily pull it back out since it doesn't lock.
     
  9. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    The Old Model 3-Screw the OP ask about doesn't have a transfer bar.

    As for the difference in pins?
    Not sure about that either.

    But someone may have put a Belt Mountain base pin in it too, and they for sure have the cut in the flange that must be aligned with the barrel.

    rc
     
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2011
  10. BCRider

    BCRider Member

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    I missed the bit about it being a 3 screw.

    I'd actually like to have a bigger flange pin like that. It would make it more automatic for getting the pin in the correct position. I may have to look into such a thing or maybe make my own once my shop renos are done.
     
  11. Red Cent

    Red Cent Member

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    I just took the cylinder out of my 3 screw 7 1/2" SBH 44 Mag. My pin is very easy to pull out. I didn't remember but you have to take the ejection rod assembly off mine to completely remove the cylinder pin. It does come out far enough to remove the cylinder.
    My cylinder pin has a small rounded channel perpendicular to the pin and about 1/4" down the pin from what I will call a flange. That fits the pin release bar.
    I am not sure someone could get the pin in wrong because of the other "U" shaped cut in the flange as RC mentioned. You could not insert it very far when the angle would stop you dead.
    I agree with RC about going at it from the other end, It occurs to me that an "L" shaped rod could be used and not remove the hammer.
     
  12. thunder173

    thunder173 Member

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    My bet is on the Belt Mountain pin.......see if there's a set screw on the bottom side.
     
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