SuperLube Engine Assembly Grease: Anyone Use It?

[twofewscrews]

I finally finished my last tube of SuperLube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease w/PTFE. I've used it primarily on the shaft of my bolt guns and locking lugs, as well as on the lock up of my Ruger PCC and the internals of Maverick 88.

It worked great on my bolt guns ensuring a smooth gliding bolt and only required reapplication every 3 to 4 range trips.

It stayed put on my M88, primarily an HD gun, and stayed properly lubed for months at a time without becoming tacky or hard. I relube the internals every two months just because.

I was using it on the bolt of my 10/22 and Ruger PCC but it attracted way more debris so back to oil I went.

I was using a mix of Clenzoil or Hoppes and the SuperLube on my EDC, a CZ P10C, as the Superlube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease alone is too thick. I've grown tired of making the mix and the time/cost is not worth it. I've got a kid on the way so I'll very soon I'll have even less time to mess around with mixing oil and grease to achieve the constancy I want, and anything I can do to reduce the amount of chemicals I use around the house in general is a wise move.

I'm thinking of moving to SuperLube Engine Assembly Grease instead. It's a 0 NLGI rated grease whereas the SuperLube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease is a 2 NLGI rated grease. I've been led to believe that grease a grease of 0 or less NLGI is what I'm looking for.

My goal here is to find something for my EDC that "sticks" so I can cut down on the amount of administrative handling I do each week. I currently apply Cleznoil on Sundays and Wednesdays or my lube mix on Sundays.

Do any of you have any experience with SuperLube Engine Assembly Grease?
Or a light grease you can recommend in place of it?

Thanks,
Screws

 

[MarshallDodge]

Never tried the assembly lube, and am still a fan of the multipurpose PTFE Super Lube, but apply it very thin and only on points of contact.


On 22s, I like Breakfree CLP. I still have an old bottle of Weaponshield oil that works well in place of grease.

More and more people are recommending white lithium grease but I have never tried it.

 

[dfariswheel]

Try the Super Lube oil.
It's a thin grease-thick oil consistency, and it stays where it's put with no running off or evaporating.

The spray cans of Super Lube grease seems to be about the same consistency as the oil. It works well inside shotgun magazine tubes.
It's thick enough it won't run once the carrier evaporates and lubes much better then a dry lube.

 

[nettlle]

I use this grease on the rail and slides of all my semi auto pistols. It will stay put to the point that it's hard to get off when cleaning. One of the main reasons I went to this grease is that is compatible with Dan Wesson Duty Treat finishes. It is NLGI Grade 1.

 

[NR53]

I use the engine assembly lube on the gas rings in my AR'S

 

[twofewscrews]

Try the Super Lube oil.
It's a thin grease-thick oil consistency, and it stays where it's put with no running off or evaporating.

The spray cans of Super Lube grease seems to be about the same consistency as the oil. It works well inside shotgun magazine tubes.
It's thick enough it won't run once the carrier evaporates and lubes much better then a dry lube.

Ordered some if the ISO 100 rated stuff along with the grease

 

[Show Me]

You surly know engine assembly lube for cams and bearings is ment to lube till oil pressure hits and melts to get out of the way fast. Moves out fast as it melts and mixes with the oil at low temp fast.
Not my idea of a gun lube.

 

[twofewscrews]

You surly know engine assembly lube for cams and bearings is ment to lube till oil pressure hits and melts to get out of the way fast. Moves out fast as it melts and mixes with the oil at low temp fast.
Not my idea of a gun lube.

I didn't really consider that specific quality of engine assembly lube, but as I understand it the heat in combination with high pressure reduces its viscosity which allows it move and mix with the oil.

I'm not sure the slide rails will be subject to enough pressure, it's not a closed system, or heat to dispatch the engine assembly grease, but it's something I'll keep on eye on.

For range time I'll still oil the rails, but for EDC I want something that will stay put till needed.

 

[argonn]

I keep a tub of this in the gun room, with q tips for rails, sears, struts and springs ect.

 

[twofewscrews]

I keep a tub of this in the gun room, with q tips for rails, sears, struts and springs ect.View attachment 1260603

That what I was using before but it's a little too thick for the slide rails on my EDC. Unless I mix it with some oil to gets a lower viscosity grease it just gets pushed out. It works great for my bolt action rifles and pump action shotgun.

 

[argonn]

My experience has been that folks use too much grease, a small film is enough.

 

[twofewscrews]

My experience has been that folks use too much grease, a small film is enough.

My EDC is a CZ P10c. The tolerances on the rear slide rails is such that after racking the slide a couple times I can wipe the rear rails with a patch and there will be almost nothing on the patch . . . You can almost hear the metal on metal contact . . .

The front rails aren't as tight and after racking the slide a couple times there is visibly grease left and a wipe with a patch confirms it.

 

[jmohme]

Anyone wanting to use engine assemly lube, just stay away from Lubriplate if the gun is going to sit for extended periods.

 

[rabid wombat]

Grease is nominally composed of two parts… the soap / base which holds the oil like a sponge, and the base oil which actually provides the lubrication. The NLGI number is the ’stiffness’ or ‘thickness’ of the base or soap. The ISO number 100, 220, 440, and etc. is the viscocity / ‘weight’ of the base oil. You can have ‘loose’ NLGI grease with high viscocity oil, and vice versa. Never mix greases, as the best that happens is nothing.

View attachment 1260630

 

[twofewscrews]

Grease is nominally composed of two parts… the soap / base which holds the oil like a sponge, and the base oil which actually provides the lubrication. The NLGI number is the ’stiffness’ or ‘thickness’ of the base or soap. The ISO number 100, 220, 440, and etc. is the viscocity / ‘weight’ of the base oil. You can have ‘loose’ NLGI grease with high viscocity oil, and vice versa. Never mix greases, as the best that happens is nothing.

View attachment 1260630

Yea. Down that rabbit hole for a week or two now . . . Many products list NLGI and not OSI . . . Very annoying . . . At a certain point ya just gotta bite the bullet and shell out some cash to see what works

 

[rabid wombat]

Many products list NLGI and not OSI . . . Very annoying . . .

Absolutely annoying, but very consistent in the lubricant world…

 

[doubleh]

I keep a tub of this in the gun room, with q tips for rails, sears, struts and springs ect.View attachment 1260603

It's excellent but my supply went walk-about I while I was recovering from hip replace surgery. Son and grandson were the only ones using my shop during that time and both are clueless about where it is. They are pretty good about putting my stuff back where it belongs but I expect to run across this setting somewhere I have overlooked just as soon as I order some more. I prefer it over any other grease for sears. I don't shoot in cold weather anymore so am only concerned about hot weather and summers are hot to hotter here. I started using a light film of synthetic wheel bearing grease on pistol rails and rifle bolts because it remains in place better than other types of grease. It's done a great job for several years for me.

 

[twofewscrews]

These arrived today


The engine assembly grease is the consistency I was looking for. It's much thinner and spreads much easier then the multi purpose grease but sticks to where you put it.

I applied a small dab on the sides and front of the rear rails and racked the slide a couple times. It pushed a bunch off but left a visible/measurable amount on the rails. Should be able to get away with lubricating my EDC once a week or less.

 

[Anchorite]

The old saying, "if it slides, grease it. If it pivots, oil it," comes to mind.

I have been happy using Brownells action lube for years on my pistol slides and bolt guns.

BROWNELLS ACTION LUBE PLUS® FIREARMS AND EQUIPMENT LUBRICANT | Brownells

Check out BROWNELLS ACTION LUBE PLUS® FIREARMS AND EQUIPMENT LUBRICANT | Brownells available Online at Brownells Today and many more Gun Oils & Lubricants products are available in our Tools & Cleaning Department.

www.brownells.com

Oil is a different topic. YMMV

 

[twofewscrews]

Took my EDC out for a spin lubed with the Superlube Engine Assembly Grease. Fired off 23 rounds of my carry ammo. Got home and checked how the grease held up. It stayed put and didn't migrate anywhere really.

Maybe next time I'll run a bunch of range ammo through it and see how it holds up, but for cutting down how often I need (perhaps feel) to apply more lube I'm happy.

Next I've got to figure out how long between lubes I can go. I assume at least two or three weeks . . . Going more then a month is just asking for trouble tho

 

[dfariswheel]

If it's anything like Super Lube grease or oil, it stays put forever.
I've serviced customer guns as much as 10 years later and the Super Lube was still there and working.
It had turned a light Gray color, but was still there.

This is why it's the perfect CCW gun lube, it won't dry out, migrate away, evaporate, or turn to a varnish.

 

[argonn]

If it's anything like Super Lube grease or oil, it stays put forever.
I've serviced customer guns as much as 10 years later and the Super Lube was still there and working.
It had turned a light Gray color, but was still there.

This is why it's the perfect CCW gun lube, it won't dry out, migrate away, evaporate, or turn to a varnish.

You talking about this one?

 

[natman]

I'm thinking of moving to SuperLube Engine Assembly Grease instead. It's a 0 NLGI rated grease whereas the SuperLube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease is a 2 NLGI rated grease. I've been led to believe that grease a grease of 0 or less NLGI is what I'm looking for.

Assembly grease might be OK, but I wouldn't use it for anything other than its intended use - engine assembly. Assembly grease is formulated to dissolve in oil. There's no consideration given for long life or high temperature resistance because it's gone in minutes, long before the engine gets hot. I also don't understand why 0 NLGI grease would be better. The 0 NLGI rating means the grease is "very soft", the consistency of mustard. Why would that be better?

I'd just stick with the SuperLube that has been working for you.

 

[twofewscrews]

Assembly grease is formulated to dissolve in oil. There's no consideration given for long life or high temperature resistance because it's gone in minutes, long before the engine gets hot.

I'm not sure how hot the slide rails are going to get but I'd wager it's much less then the expected temperature of an engine so heat is not an issue. If I don't add oil and the heat stays well below that of an engine I don't forsee it breaking down anytime soon.

Longevity of the grease is a consideration and to that end Ill be inspecting it every week or two, however, as this is strictly for my EDC it will not be on something that is constantly moving or being heated . . . It should be fine . . .

I also don't understand why 0 NLGI grease would be better. The 0 NLGI rating means the grease is "soft", the consistency of mustard. Why would that be better?

The NLGI grade 2 Superlube I was using tried before was too viscous. The fit between the frame and rails is tight enough that it simply pushed almost all of it off without leaving any left.

I'd just stick with the SuperLube that has been working for you.

The NLGI grade 2 Superlube works great for my bolt actions and pump action but it's too viscous for the slide rails on my P10C or my 1911 (with the 1911 it was a see if it works, i didn't think it would and it didn't).

I wanted/needed a thinner grease or a thicker oil to cut down on the amount of time I'm handling a loaded firearm in my home. My EDC is only empty to apply more lube (or clean and out it after some range time) otherwise it is always loaded.

My goal is cut down on the amount of time I'm handling a loaded firearm in my home.

 

[dfariswheel]

You talking about this one?
View attachment 1261509

That's the grease I use for most action parts contact surfaces, but I use the oil for pivot pins and as a general lube.
The oil is just a thinner consistency then the actual grease.

Both stay right where you put them.

As an add-on, I use CLP Breakfree or Breakfree Collector as a rust preventive.
I put a few drops on a toothbrush and "scrub" all surfaces inside and out.
This leaves a fine coat of CLP on everything to prevent rust, but the Super Lubes are the lubricant.

As a final treatment I apply a coat of wax to the grip frame where the grips cover the frame.
I apply a coat and don't wipe it off. Let dry 20 minutes then mount the grips.
This helps prevent rusting under the grips.
Since Johnson's Paste Wax is discontinued I'll be using Minwax Paste Wax.
Car wax isn't really suitable for this job.