1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Supressors and threads sticking

Discussion in 'NFA Firearms and Accessories' started by flex28, Feb 10, 2013.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. flex28

    flex28 Member

    Feb 10, 2013
    I have a Thunderbeast 7.62 and several other makes on order awaiting tax stamps. I have seen posts/articles about supressors either backing off or sticking on the barrel threads from heat and dirt.
    I think I can fix this.
    My idea is to coat the threads on both the barrel and the supressor with my anti-galling coating we use for steel oil tool in order to prevent galling or thread locking.
    Then I want to shoot full auto until the supressor sticks on an uncoated version and shoot past that temp/rd. count with the coated version and take it off normally.
    As this coating works perfectly on both carbon steel and stainless steels like Inconel in oil wells under tremendous heat and pressure I think it'll work here.
    It is a permanent coating so it should be worth trying ....and repeating.
    Thos test may well melt barrels and supressors before the coating fails but I do plan to offer it for sale if successful.
    Anyone have any ideas or comments of a constructive nature ?
  2. Zak Smith

    Zak Smith Moderator Emeritus

    Dec 24, 2002
    Fort Collins, CO, USA.
    Suppressors stick on threads when there isn't enough clearance between the inner (suppressor) and outer (muzzle) threads. This is almost always due to muzzle threads that are out of spec. And in that case, it's not stuck due to heat or dirt, it's stuck because there is an interference fit and the metal galls. Anti-seize isn't going to fix that. When a suppressor is "hot" and someone can't get it unscrewed, it is almost always because they simply can't grab it with the same force and friction they can when it's cool.

    The only exception to the above, when a can gets stuck, is when the muzzle threads are too long and actually protrude into the can past its threaded surface. Carbon collects on these exposed threads and then it can get stuck.

    As far as backing off goes, if we are talking about non-full-auto shooting, it is almost never an issue if the suppressor fits correctly on the muzzle threads and you get it firmly hand tight.

    For full-auto applications, it's easy to keep a screw-on suppressor tight. Use Nordloc washers. These are what we provide with the 223A upon request.
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page