Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by flyboy1788, Apr 28, 2009.
I hear the term limp wristing being thrown around a lot. Does this really cause jams??
it can indeed.
I have shot my 1911's with one hand, off hand, both hands and cannot seem to induce a jam via this method.
But then again, I have never had a 1911 grip safety "bite" me.
It can, but it's very difficult with a steel-framed pistol, since the frame itself provides a lot of the inertia the slide has to work against to cycle; "limp-wristing" is most commonly seen with polymer-framed pistols, especially with new shooters who don't get a firm lockup behind the pistol.
Just depends on the gun.
hmm interesting. The reason I ask is because my springer mil-spec which eats all new and factory remanufactured ammo like candy, was jamming(failing to return to battery) on these questionable, seemingly underpowered reloads I was using. Not only did they seem quite underpowered compared to the winchester, many of them had small to moderate amounts of rust on the brass shell. Although I would like it to eat ALL ammo, I have to ask myself if I shouldnt worry about it not eating these reloads. i didnt think I was limp wristing, but I figured I would ask. Do underpowered rounds make a difference??? what about a new recoil spring?? Or just not worry about it. Like I said, it eats ultramax LRNs and winchester white box hollowpoints like candy....AHHHHHHH...MUST HAVE PERFECTION!!!!:banghead:
You may just want to disregard the problems if it only happened with underpowered and rusty reloads. I would but if you insist...You may need to install a heavier or lighter Action Spring (recoil spring) Get a Wolff calibration pack. With any autoloader the action spring does two jobs but it's primary job is to return the firearm to battery. Also with a 1911 the feed ramp needs to be smooth. If you can feel machine marks on the ramp you may need to polish it (don't use any power tools).
I've not ever had my 1911 FTF, FTE, FTRTB by limp wristing shooting ball or hp's only issue's I've ever had were Semi Wad Cutters that weren't crimped properly by me that caused the bullet to set back and jam. Simple fix...no more SWC's!
I have had my PT145 3.25" bbl polymer frame 45 malfunction due to limp wristing it causes a short cycle and no round is loaded.
the best bet is..........dont limp wrist
might have been a prob with the reloads as well.
I was going to say the same thing. If the rounds were suspect maybe they weren't crimped correctly, had bulged cases, etc.
Only time i ever had a failure to return to battery was on a reload that wasn't crimped enough.
Beyond that, i've attempted to limpwrist my 1911 and it's never worked. Holding as gingerly as possible, it has always fired and follwed up with a second round.
Only issue i've ever had from holding so lightly was an unintentional double tap. My "experimenting" stopped right there.
My best advice is DO NOT SHOOT QUESTIONABLE AMMUNITION IN YOUR GUNS! Many things can happen, and most of those things ain't good.
Also when was the last time you replaced your recoil spring, how many rounds ago. (I am sure you clean your weapon every time you use it, RIGHT?)
What strength spring do you have? (standard is 16 lbs, but many manufacturers use different weight springs.)
I run an eighteen and a half, 18 1/2 lbs Wolf springs in all my 45acp Government (5") 1911's. YMMV
Almost impossible to do with an all steel 1911. Fired mine with my pinky upside down and got thru 1 mag with zero failures.
Ammunition's expensive these days. It's nowhere near as expensive as a new gun... or a prosthetic hand.
If you had an AKC registered dog, would you feed him roadkill?
Ok, thanks for the replies guys. Many of the reloads cases were "bulged" a noticeable amount. BTW, I clean my gun meticulously after each range session, and I lube it properly right before I go to the range. Also, the feed ramps are extremely smooth, I dont see how they could in any way be the culprit. As far as the last time it was replaced....I am the second owner of the gun, Im pretty sure the originial owner only ran 200-300 rounds of ammo through it or less, because there were hardly even wear marks anywhere, but after I got it, I have since put maybe 1500 rounds through it. So maybe to be on the safe side, I should get an new spring anyways, even though the crappy reloads might be the culprit.
I've never seen it. But that doesn't mean it can't happen. I think "limp-wristing" gets blamed for a lot of problems that aren't related to it. I've put a couple hundred rounds through my Taurus 1911 one-handed with my weak hand and never had a malfunction. I've never been "bitten" by any gun as well.
Limp-wristing and resulting FTEs occur more often with small light guns rather than 1911s due to less static inertia. In other words it will occur more frequently in a P3AT than a 1911.
Yes. The pistol is recoil operated and was designed for full power ammunition that would be used in combat. If you wish to fire a lot of "softball" target loads it is conventional wisdom to reduce the "weight" of the recoil spring.
Old military steel cased stuff, or Wolf? Or did you mean simple corrosion?
Try a LEE Factory Crimp Die, my troubles with failure to return to battery were fixed with that, It irons out any bulges after bullet seating. I don't know if it would hold up to steel cases though, it takes a lot of die pressure to resize, and a LFC die does a final resize.
If you have any doubt just take the barrel out and try dropping the loaded rounds in by hand, they should drop in without pressure and fall out when you point the muzzle end up.
I personally don't consider steel cases worth the effort, but that may change as our glorious leader goes into his second 100 days.
HisSoldier, I know they were not wolf, i am pretty sure they were brass(i cannot check now as I am away at college and the ammo is back home) but it looked like some sort of rust/ corrosion, but i guess brass doesnt rust does it??
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