Coug, you refer to "track back" and I'm thinking you're not talking about the accuracy with which the scope tracks but rather if it is equipped with a zero stop. A mechanical version is doubtful (couldn't say on your model, perhaps someone else knows). This allows you to twist elevation and windage back to your original "zero" which is helpful if under stress you have made adjustments or "doped the scope" for a shot but did not record what you did.
Make sure you mount it square with the rifle and DO NOT over tighten the rings. Extend the rings as much as possible from the center of the scope for support and zero from the best support you can find.
Once zero is achieved, look around for some ballistics charts to find bullet drop (Hornady.com has a calculator if you know bullet weight, ballistic coefficient and muzzle velocity). If you're zero is 100 yards and the chart says bullet drop is 2" at 200 yards you'll dial up 2" on your scope. Assuming 1/4" MOA adjustment, you'll click 4 up (200 yards doubles adjustments). Verify that distance and log it. You may find the chart isn't spot on for your rifle but that cheat sheet can be taped to your rifle or you can add a pull-out chart that attaches to your scope.
As far as equipment I concur on quality with the possible exception of your rings. Unless you've bought Leupold Mark IV rings you have a 1913 rail and Weaver sized rings. This will give you some slop in fit (Weaver cross slots are narrower than 1913). That can allow for movement in the cross slot and non-repeatable zero if removed.
You'll know which type you have if when you place a single ring in the base there is movement front to back before tightening. (I believe Talley makes both Weaver and 1913 rails so your combo may be fine).
Best of luck, all else seems like a great package.
