The 336 Club

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WBoss: Bullet weight and velocity make a lot of difference in point of impact. Typically 150 grain standard jacketed loads print about 3-6" higher in my 30-30 336 Marlins. I'd also agree with Abel's statements and find the 170's to generally be more accurate. There is an exception - the 150 grain Remington Soft point over IMR 4895 (aka the "PapaJohn Load") pushed to about 2200 fps. Purchased in bulk that bullet is relatively inexpensive and has a proven track record on Deer. Another thing I like about it is that the POA = POI with the same sight setting is very close to the same as a 170 grain cast bullet load (~1400 fps) and another 115 grain (Lee "Soup Can") cast bullet over 3 grains of Bullseye so I can use the same rifle to take a Deer or Black Bear (Bro-in-Law just shot one off his front porch with his 30-30 a month ago) with the PJ load, go out on the Weekend and shoot the Silhouette match with the 170 gr cast bullet load and take a Grouse with the Lee Soupcan Load without ever touching the sights.

PR-NJ: If you are going to scope it use the least amount of scope you can. Small is good on a lever gun. What you give up in accuracy is worth it to maintain its handiness. Your mileage may vary, especially if the rifle's main use is just punching paper off the bench. In the field you'll be happy with less glass.

Storm: Sounds like you've been infected with Leverfever. Buy two more and call me in the morning ;^)

Barrels Stamps typically indicate the era more than the model. 336 RC was common in the 60's even on the Texans. 336A and 336AS are generally of more recent mfr. Exceptions would be SC which means it had the shorter magazine or 336CB would be the Octagonal barreled versions.

DashCasey: There is a guy who makes a single point sling for saddle ring lever guns. I have a Saddle Ringed Cowboy that's only purpose is aesthetic. I like it there. ;^)

owboys3855and3030a.jpg

A pair of Cowboy Converted Texans. The Marlin 336 SRC Texan Converted to a 38-55 SRC Cowboy. My latest favorite and most shot Marlin.
 
A saddle ring will not make it look like anything other than a rifle with a saddle ring. And if you don't have a saddle to tie it to, its worthless.
Could a saddle ring be used as a point for attaching a one point sling? I'm not saying I would want to. Just an idea of another possible use.
 
Not sure about the aftermarket versions but the original saddle rings do not move unless you move them, even under recoil. Abel is correct and its usefulness might be limited.
 
Thanks Badlander, for the simple answer to the question. How difficult are they to install, I have a moderate level of gunsmithing skill?
 
Very easy. pull off the stock, take out the set screw for the safety. (there is A tiny spring and detent ball under the screw) pull out the safety and put in the replacememt pin. He makes 2 models one with A screw in stud with the ring on it and one where the ring goes through the pin. I have the screw in ones. I have heard the others are dificult to get the ring put in and closed. Mans name is Kriss and he is good to deal with.
 
Sheepdog
I know someone who uses the ring for A one point sling. He went so far as to drill out the set screw hole larger for A more secure mount.
 
Storm: Sounds like you've been infected with Leverfever. Buy two more and call me in the morning ;^)

Man, you've got that right. I went back today to hopefully put the Western Auto on layaway. It wasn't to happen. 30-30 leverguns have been selling like hotcakes with hunting season. It was gone. I looked at an old 39, but I'm not really in the market for another .22. Instead I put a tang safety M77 International in .243 on layaway. Not a Marlin, but what the heck. I think that if I add another 336 it will be a straight stock.

Now, to shoot what I have.
 
This is a laminated stock and if I could take a better picture of it I'd prove it.
With the butt cap off it is easy to see.
It doesn't have even the slightest ding in the wood despite the fact that the rest of the rifle looked well used before I fixed her up.

I have owned a dozen or so 336's and probably seen several hundred more and I've not seen a stock like this before so I'm not sure if it is a Marlin stock or it could be aftermarket.

Definately not birch though.

I tried searching the web but couldn't find any info on it
 
Rally, that's a fine looking rifle regardless of what the stock is.

I'm sooo eager to get mine out here and cut down the barrel.

I think the problem with your use of the word "laminate" relates to what contemporary "laminate" stocks look like. Those of us who've been around levers for the last, say, five years have come to know that they look like this.

Yours may indeed be laminate - I'll leave that for your photos to prove and others to judge - but it doesn't look like contemporary laminates. From our perspective, it looks like a regular birch stock, like the one on my rifle in post 1 of this thread.

By the way, welcome to the club.
 
I was thinking of getting an 1894 in 38/357 for mostly social plinking. Figured it would have less recoil (w 38s) than my 336 in 30-30 and the cost per round would also be less. Plus, I can shoot it at the local indoor range which is closer and open after sunset.

EDIT: I was able to go online today and found the info I need for the questions below.

I have two questions for all of you lever action lovers:
1. How does the cost of the 38 flat nosed jacked ammo compare to round nose jacketed 38s?
I don't/really can't reload and I don't want to use lead only bullets.


2. Do any of you know who would make jacketed flat nose or hollow point 38s that are affordable?
For 45s and 9 mms I am quite happy with Winchester White Box and I"m hoping there is something similar in 38s that would be tube fed friendly.

Many thanks for your help.
 
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Sheep, your questions might be a little far afield for us in here - we're a .30-30 club - but someone will probably know.

There are also a number of threads in Rifle Country dedicated to the 1894C. I'd query them too. (Please don't take this as criticism; you are welcome to ask here. Just trying to be helpful.)
 
Had to share this with y'all.

It's interesting that my passwords for various electronic functions often tend to involve gun models or calibers.

For example, my voice mail password on my cell phone is ... 336.

My mountain bike lock combination is 3030.

My laptop password has 357 in it (but is much more complex than that).

Funny that. :)

Of course, now I have to change my bike lock combination so you won't steal it. :uhoh:

:neener:
 
Our fearless leader wrote:
we're a .30-30 club

:eek: I thought it was a 336 club in all it's variations, including 35 Rem, 38-55 Win, 44 Magnum... AND the ubiquitous 30-30 (aka 30 WCF). :confused:

Seems to me they're all ingredients in the same cake ;)
 
Sheep, your questions might be a little far afield for us in here - we're a .30-30 club - but someone will probably know.

There are also a number of threads in Rifle Country dedicated to the 1894C. I'd query them too. (Please don't take this as criticism; you are welcome to ask here. Just trying to be helpful.)
No offense taken. I spend a fair bit of my time on this thread and didn't realize there was an 1894C threads that were similar.
 
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