The 336 Club

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I worked a trade deal and will be picking up a brand new 336CS next week :)

I'm stoked, and plan to make it my main defense rifle, so all I'll do is put a bunch of rounds through it to get a feel, then maybe a barrel chop, and limbsaver if it needs it...

For ya'll who use the 336 for "social" work, what rounds are you using? I don't reload (yet), so I was looking at Remington's Reduced Recoil 125gr Core-Lokt or Federal Power-Shok 125gr JHP, assuming either of them group decently
 
Rob's above question about "social" work has got me to wonder...how many rounds could you get through your 30-30, during a zombie raid, before the barrel got too hot?
 
how many rounds could you get through your 30-30, during a zombie raid, before the barrel got too hot?
All of em :D

For ya'll who use the 336 for "social" work, what rounds are you using?
230gr jhp, my336 holds 11 of em in 44 mag.
That should work for "social situations";)
 
For ya'll who use the 336 for "social" work, what rounds are you using? I don't reload (yet), so I was looking at Remington's Reduced Recoil 125gr Core-Lokt or Federal Power-Shok 125gr JHP, assuming either of them group decently
Click to expand...

The Remington is a pointed soft point, according to their web page. Surprising that they'd load a pointed bullet in .30-30, which is almost always used in tubular mags. I wouldn't choose that one.

The Federal load looks like a better choice, in that it's a JHP. According to Federal, MV is about 2500 FPS from a 24" barrel. Knock a bit off for the 20" barrel on your Marlin. Out at 100 yards it should be doing about 2000 FPS. Sounds like a dandy defensive load, as long as you don't need to shoot anything larger than a man, e.g, no black bears in your neck of the woods. If you need to defend yourself or property against larger animals, I'd jump to the 170 grain loads.
 
For "social" work with commercially available ammo I believe whatever shoots best and cycles reliably in your rifle should carry the most weight in that decision. The same could be said for hunting too.

Never shot a zombie. I'm not sure we have a season for em' here in the NW. Are they good eatin'? :barf: :p

I would bet that a 336 would run straight through more ammo than you'd care to carry. I'm not sure it'd set the forend on fire but there are guys out there that have run them through stages designed for "tactical" rifles and carbines.

If the lever rifle is pushed into SHTF service I believe it would best be utilized delivering aimed fire at select targets and then repositioning and/or skedattling. Taking fewer shots will make you harder to locate and if the shots you do make connect you'll do a lot more to ruin the bad guys day than laying down a wall of lead that weighed you down getting there and didn't last long when the shooting started.
 
Just checking in after yet another week from hell at work. Overwhelmed busy. But that should taper off a bit in coming weeks, and more so after the new year.

Good to see the club house jumping. So nice to stop into the house to read for pleasure, take my mind off work. (I'm here more than I post; nice to drop in and read for a few minutes in the middle of a busy week ... great diversion.)

Some great pics of "new" rifles. (ShowMe, where'd you get that sling? That's cool to carry a few extra rnds in it with that orientation, with the long axis of the rnd in line with the axis of the sling.)

As for "social work", even though I have sometimes fancied that my 336 could be good for that, and it would definitely work, increasingly I'm probably thinking more of my 1894C (.357 mag) in that role, with the 336 filling the niche of food getter. The '94C holds more rnds, they're more than adequate for social work, it's small, short, light, lower recoil than .30-30, easy to grab in the middle of the night. I'm finding that I want to mainly use the .30-30 for "target work" for longer distances (50 - 100 m) for deer, and train with the .357 for ... other stuff. Not that it won't take deer at reasonable distances, but when I think deer, I think .30-30. When I think "social work", I think .357 mag.

OK, speaking of the middle of the night, it's that now. I'm tired. Only had three hours sleep last night. Time for bed. Work tomorrow.

Nem
 
Nem-Glad to see you in the club house. Nice place you got here!

I got that sling at Wal-Mart. I havent really tested it (gone traipsin' in the woods with it) yet, but it seems functionally sound. I too like having the extra rounds in the sling.

I'm really looking forward to taking out my 42 year old new rifle to the range someday (who knows when that'll be).

Take care!
 
Marlin 336XLR lever opens too easily

I apologize for the double post, but a member recommeded I try asking the 336 club my question.

Marlin 336XLR lever opens too easily


I have had my Marlin 336XLR in 35 Rem for several months now and love it. It has performed excellent at the range, but I noticed a problem while hunting.

With rounds in the magazine and a round in the reciever, the lever pops open way too easily. While tree stand hunting in cold weather with gloves, I kept on popping the lever open with just the slightest outward pressure.

When magazine and reciever are empty, the lever engages/disengages much better & tighter.

I compared my lever to a friends older 336 35Rem (pre hammerlock safety) and his engages and disengages with a much more rigid, interlocking feel.

Thanks everyone.
 
I got that sling at Wal-Mart. I haven't really tested it (gone traipsin' in the woods with it) yet, but it seems functionally sound. I too like having the extra rounds in the sling.
Click to expand...

I've got the black version of the same sling for the 336. It works well for what it is. The only gripes I have with it are that the pad on the shoulder holds on really well, it's a pain in the butt if you're trying to get it off your shoulder on the quick. And when we leave to go hunting the rifles are laying on the front seat with us with the barrels in the floorboard of the truck, on more than one occasion, a cartridge will catch on the seat and pop out.

Those are only minor gripes, it's great carrying around in the brush.

-John
 
Possom - I don't really understand what you mean about a cartridge getting caught and pulled out. But I have gotten in and out of a lot of vehicles with guns and I'd never stick the muzzle against the floor board. The muzzle is one of the more "delicate" parts of a gun. It's fairly easy to ding one up and really screw up the accuracy of your rifle.
My system is to put the butt on the floor, action open, muzzle pointed toward the roof (assuming I don't have a gun rack).
A scratched stock is a small matter compared to taking a rifle to a smith to get the muzzle recrowned.
Just my $.02.
 
ok guys my marlins having some problems

some times when im shooting it will do this once or twice a box

when i go to eject the old round then load the next round in it gets hung up and i have to use the old round or my knif to pry the old round back towards the proper position

any idea y?
 
Are you tilting the rifle when you are levering the new round? Usually it has to be pass the 30 degree mark.
 
New to me 336 Range report

Marlin 336 range report and comparison to my 336CB
Details:
-1976 vintage
-20” Microgoove barrel.
-Weather: Lightly snowing, 32*, wind quartering from right front.
-25 & 50 yard targets, 3-5 shot groups
-All reloads crimped with the Lee Factory Crimp

Double check data, use at your own risk.

Bulk Remington 150 grain Core-Lokt JRN
-IMR 4895 (70’s vintage), 30.5 gr, (IMR data) = 2032 fps, 1” 25 yard, 2.25” 50 yard groups
-IMR3031, 30gr, (IMR data) = 2180 fps, 7/8” 25 yard group, 2” 50 yard groups
-Varget, 33gr (Hodgdon data) = 2120 fps, ¾” 25 yard group. 1-1/2” 50 yard groups.

Sierra 170gr JFP
-IMR 3031 29.5gr (IMR data) = 2036 fps, 3/8” 25 yard, 13/16” 50 yard group

Federal Power Shok 170gr JRN
-Factory Ammo = 2163 fps 7/8” 50 yard group

Laser-Cast 170gr LRNFP, I lubed with Lee Liquid Alox and added a Hornady gas check
-IMR 4227 17gr (Lyman Data) =1637 fps, ¾” 25 yard group, 1-5/8” 50 yard group.
-IMR SR4756, (gmdr.com data) 6gr. No chrony data. ½” 25 yard group.
-IMR SR4756, (Lyman Data) 10.4gr, no chrony data, <1” 50 yard group
-Hercules Red Dot, (gmdr.com data) 5.5gr, no chrony data. ¾” 25 yard group

This was my first trip out with this rifle. The 170 grain Sierra and Oregon Trail Laser-Cast bullets looks promising and the commercial Federal 170 grain ammo performed well too. I was disappointed in the 150 gr Remington bulk bullets.

I was pleased with the cast bullet performance. They performed better than the jacketed bullets. The Laser Cast bullets were sized to .310” and there was minimal evidence of leading during the post shoot cleaning. More evidence to bust the Microgroove/lead myth.

Comparatively, my Marlin 336CB with the 24” Ballard grooved barrel gets 130 fps more with the 4895/Rem 150 load, 37 fps more with the 3031/Rem 150 load, 98 fps faster with the 3031/Sierra 170 load, 35 fps faster with the Federal factory ammo and 93 fps with the Laser-Cast 170 load.

Update: I had the opportunity to run a few of the reduced loads over the chronograph

Laser-Cast 170 RNFP over 3 gr of Bullseye averaged 730 fps.

Laser-Cast 170 RNFP over 5.5gr Red Dot averaged 1027 fps

Laser-Cast 170 RNFP over 6g (=.7cc Lee scoop) SR 4756 averaged 1057

Same LC/4756 load as above only with a Gas Check averaged 980 fps

Both Loads were VERY consistent. I was surprised to see that adding a GC would reduce the velocity.
 

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Paintballdude - you mean it is failing to extract or eject a fired casing? Sorry, but I don't really understand quite what you're talking about.
 
how many rounds could you get through your 30-30, during a zombie raid, before the barrel got too hot?
All of em

For ya'll who use the 336 for "social" work, what rounds are you using?
230gr jhp, my336 holds 11 of em in 44 mag.
That should work for "social situations"
Click to expand...


I've shot 8 boxes(Monarch, 9.50 per box at Academy)out of mine in one afternoon. Thats 160 rounds; slow, aimed, sustained fire. It was hot to the touch, no doubt, but no troubles.

Edited to add- My 336 is on my list of shtf rifles.
 
So, I'm hoping to put Mo's data into a table for easier comparison,
but this datum sticks out at me most right now
(in part because I've got a box of these):

Federal Power Shok 170gr JRN
-Factory Ammo = 2163 fps 7/8” 50 yard group
Click to expand...
Now that seems like one of the best scores: fast and inside an inch.

Could contribute to a BBD (Bambi bad day).
 
My 336 is on my list of shtf rifles.
Click to expand...
Drifter, so is mine.

If that four letter acronym ever happens,
my 336 is likely going along ...
where ever fate leads.

In fact, my entire toolkit - five guns & five knives -
has been assembled with that acronym in mind.

Five guns:
  • 1894C .357 mag/.38 spl
  • 65 .357 mag/.38 spl
  • 336 .30-30
  • X42 .38 spl
  • 39A .22 LR
Five knives:
  • Benchmade Osborne
  • SOG seal pup elite
  • SOG tool
  • Kabar
  • SAK
With those, along with proper skills,
I could build a shelter, defend it,
and acquire food.

If necessary,
I could shorten
the list to 2x2.

If I move to ID or AK,
I'll add an 1895 in .45-70.

I'd also like to add
a sixth edge tool:
a tomahawk.

Other than that,
I'm good to go.

:)
 
Paintballdude - you mean it is failing to extract or eject a fired casing? Sorry, but I don't really understand quite what you're talking about.
Click to expand...
it locks up when it trys to feed the new round it exects fine but the round gets jammed when it trys to feed the new round

Are you tilting the rifle when you are levering the new round? Usually it has to be pass the 30 degree mark.
Click to expand...
umm i dont think i am


and also im thinking about getting into reloading what size bullets do teh .30-30 like

can i use standard .30 caliber?
 
I don't really understand what you mean about a cartridge getting caught and pulled out.
Click to expand...

I carry it with the barrel on the transmission hump, nice and carpeted. No damage there, but if I'm not paying attention to detail when getting it out of the truck, the way the shells are in the sling, they have caught on the seat and fallen out into the floorboard.

-John
 
Paintball: some questions for you

Welcome to the 336 funhouse, Pumpkinheaver.
Very interesting grain patterns on the furniture of that 336.

Paintballdude - you mean it is failing to extract or eject a fired casing?
Click to expand...
it locks up when it trys to feed the new round it ejects fine but the round gets jammed when it trys to feed the new round
Click to expand...
Paintball, just to make sure we understand the problem, so that we can help you solve it, is the following accurate?

The empty shell of previously fired round ejects with no problem,
but the next round doesn't feed correctly, jamming the action.

Is that correct? (Please answer yes or no.)

If you said "yes", then exactly WHERE does the next round jam?

Does the round get pushed up by the carrier (part 7 on the parts list in attached diagram) as you are levering,
but gets stuck as it is being pushed into the chamber?

Does the next round seem to hang up on the lip of the chamber?

If not, does the jam happen before the carrier pushes the next round up?

Please give us as many details as you can.
Especially, tell us WHERE the rnd is getting hung up.

For example, fill in this blank with the name of the part where the round is getting stuck
(refer to the users manual diagram below for the number of the part):
"The round gets stuck on part number ____".

Nem
 

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XD9, purty gun. Nice to see an SS around here.

You taught me something new with this NP3. I just visited the Robar site to learn about it. Interesting.

Is NP3 available only for stainless guns? Doesn't look like it'd work for blue, but they do seem to have some technology for blued guns.

Didn't spend too much time there, so I could be wrong.
 
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