Discussion in 'Blackpowder' started by ClemBert, Aug 11, 2010.
Thank you! Glad to be here and I appreciate the links.
Howell has a FAQs page where they ask the age of your revolver. --->>> https://www.howellarms.com/faq
If you're lucky they can drop right in.
Some guns may need a little bit of work for both cylinders to function.
Kirst has pages for troubleshooting too. --->>> https://www.kirstkonverter.com/faqs-troubleshooting.html
That's why Gary Barnes was mentioned on the last page in post #3575, because he purchases and installs them for folks.
AFAIK he was trained by Kirst.
Edit: My pistol is ‘73 production model so the cylinder will need to be trimmed before it’s sent out. By the way, Howell is no longer making the cylinder but has still has the one I want.
Gary's website was working when I posted it on Thursday, and his site has his phone number listed.
It's possible that he went away to a shoot or that there's internet problems.
Whichever is the case, he will be back online and he also has an active facebook page.
On Facebook it's --->>> https://www.facebook.com/cartridgeconversion/
Cartridge Conversion Revolvers / dba: GB Enterprises
6490 County Road 4520 LaRue, TX 75770
Wow! How much fun is that? My first outing with it today - all 12 shots into a 6" disk at 20 yards off-hand. 20gr (vol) 16gr (weight) Triple7 fffg / wad / .457" ball. Had to use a .357 lead bullet on top of the ball in order to push it all the way down onto the powder, but I'm very pleased with the outcome. Just waiting for my extended grips from Texas Grips. The USPS tracker appears to show that they have gone on a world tour...... Corpus Christi, Chicago, San Francisco, Sydney (!) where next I wonder?
The Powder Inc. and Dick Dastardly Tower of Power loaders work with the ROA.
1. --->>> https://powderinc.com/product-category/cylinder-loader/
2. --->>> http://www.biglube.com/Default.aspx
If filler is recommended, then (a) is a lubed wad still essential and (b) if so does it go under the ball or between the powder and filler? (I'm using Triple7 not "real" BP).
Would appreciate some insight on the above from you gents on here. Thanks!
They generally shoot lower velocity target loads, but anyone can use filler to try to improve their accuracy.
Some folks may notice an improvement while others may not notice any difference.
It's partly about trying to create a more consistent load with less variation between shots.
Filler probably has some effects in addition to reducing the distance between the ball and forcing cone.
The filler adds a little extra weight and being compressed may help to seal gases in the chamber and also protect from chain fire.
I'm not sure that there's any wrong loading regimen to use with it, since experimenting can sometimes lead to different results.
I don't think that the lubed wad is essential, since it's partly used as a carrier for black powder lube.
You may find that 777 doesn't really need lube in the chambers, since it's cleaner than black powder but that's up to you.
The more powder loaded, the more residue that's created.
You may find that it easier to swab the bore after every 30+ shots instead of using lube or lubed wads.
Everything can have an unpredictable affect on accuracy.
I recall someone liked to use coarse grits as filler thinking that it helped to scrub the bore.
OK, thanks very much. I may experiment a little in that case, but for me I think I would prefer to keep things as simple as possible. No need for heavy loads here - I can only shoot at 25 yards locally! Thanks again for your explanations. Greatly appreciated.
ROA Club Members:
296. Bibbyman 297. pinebough 298. Dohrmc 299. BEEMAX 300. LightninST
301. severnsider 302. doubleh 303. Dark Skies 304. hrt4me 305. NathanHale
high priced. To have an extra to cannibalize is wisdom.
It fits but I'm a little concerned with the endshake. I've not officially measured it, but it's about thumbnail thickness between cylinder bushing and frame. When pushed forward, the cylinder to barrel gap closes. Should I be concerned?
The first six shots are usually quite consistent, provided that I use two hands and concentrate, but subsequent shots become less consistent as more shots are fired. After 24 shots I ran a bronze brush down the bore and it was very stiff on the first pass with a lot of crud emerging. I'm thus wondering whether others have found a similar degradation in consistency and if it is common practice to brush the bore out after each six firings? I had also taken to using "Alox" on the balls, thinking that this might be useful as lubricant, but then realised that this was probably a pointless exercise! I would be interested in your thoughts on the matter of brushing the bore between loadings! Thanks!
Last weekend I shot 10 cowboy action stages with my ROAs using a smear of beeswax/crisco over the ball (50 shots from each revolver). The fouling came out of the barrel using a wet mop only. Over-the-ball lube works.
In my experience Alox and black powder don’t play well together. The fouling will be very hard and crusty.
I got around to digging out the Old Army the other day and it seems to lock up fine. I did do some finger polishing on the cylinder with Flitz. I matches the high polished gun pretty close.
OK gents, thanks. I'll forget about the Alox and just try beeswax over the ball (the wads (so-called "Wonder Wads"...... sounds like some kind of incontinence cure) are supposed to be ready-lubed, but they feel quite dry to me. Yes, the fouling comes out easily with water.
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