THR Reloading Gear Review Thread

If you get hangups pull the sleeve back and make sure the base that touches the primer face is tight to the shaft.... it may be for depth adjustment but the only thing I had to figure out.

Thanks, but I'm having a hard time visualizing that procedure. 🤔
 
Seating depth can be a critical aspect in the long range game, we find windows as small as .001’ and to ensure each record round as precise as possible from shoulder to ogive, I’ve began using the accuracy one seating depth comparator mounted on a custom base next to my arbor press. This is amazingly quick and accurate to .0005
 

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Depends on the person. Me, personally, I could care less about cost per round. I was taught to reload before I got my first center fire and think of it as an enjoyable hobby outside of the shooting. I know, that won’t make sense to a lot of folks, and they will want to argue about it

Exactly why this line preceded the line you quoted.


Last, but not the least, it has become for many of us, an enjoyable hobby and a pastime. As with most hobbies, the priority of saving money can be lost due to the enjoyment we get from it.

My post was more about the reviewing of reloading equipment and the relative cost of it, kinda the just of this thread........and not just the cost of said equipment, but the value of it when reloading. Whether a piece of equipment is really worth the cost, or just a lot of advertising hype, can, and should be, a factor for purchase. Having motorcycles and ATVs/UTVs, and being a hunter and a fisher, I can relate to spending much more than necessary on my hobbies.
 
Exactly why this line preceded the line you quoted.




My post was more about the reviewing of reloading equipment and the relative cost of it, kinda the just of this thread........and not just the cost of said equipment, but the value of it when reloading. Whether a piece of equipment is really worth the cost, or just a lot of advertising hype, can, and should be, a factor for purchase. Having motorcycles and ATVs/UTVs, and being a hunter and a fisher, I can relate to spending much more than necessary on my hobbies.
Well, like many of you I have spent good money on things I didn't really need, or things that didn't pan out the way I thought they would. OTOH, I've purchased things I had been noodling around with the idea of for years...and when I finally "bit" felt like kicking myself in the hiney for not buying earlier. So that's the whole reason for this thread...unbiased reviews by guys who actually use these things every day and can cut through the sponsored videos (you know those YT guys are getting freebies for positive reviews)
 
Well, like many of you I have spent good money on things I didn't really need, or things that didn't pan out the way I thought they would. OTOH, I've purchased things I had been noodling around with the idea of for years...and when I finally "bit" felt like kicking myself in the hiney for not buying earlier. So that's the whole reason for this thread...unbiased reviews by guys who actually use these things every day and can cut through the sponsored videos (you know those YT guys are getting freebies for positive reviews)
We don't know what we don't know.

I started reloading with a kit that had everything but dies and a shell holder. It all worked, but as time has passed I've tried (bought) different things, some worked great and some just average. Unless you can try before you buy, or someone you know and trust recommends it, you just don't know for sure how it will work.

Great thread by the way!

chris
 
One of my best additions was hanging a Harbor Freight 2 tube LED shop light right above my head. It doesn't shine in my eyes placed there and I need no additional lighting for anything I do on my bench. It's better than sunshine as it remains in one place and is just about as bright.

I looked at caliber specific aluminum powder funnels but was put off by their price. Instead I turned my own and really like the way they work. They are worth the money in my book if you can't make your own.
 
Here's one of those items that I'm not sure was worth it in the long run...the Hornady concentricity gauge:


Does it work as advertised? Let's put it this way...I can measure run-out on a, let's say, 7mm mag cartridge at .003-.004 at the ogive as I rotate the cartridge 360 degrees. Using the nylon tipped thumb screw, I can apply pressure and drop run-out to .001-.002 on the dial, so yes; in effect, it appears to 'work'.
But not so fast...
First, is pushing the bullet back into concentricity alignment really what we are after? Or would we be better served having a trued case neck and/or using a precision micrometer seating die (such as the RCBS die below) that ensures a concentric seated bullet?


Good question.

Second, I'm not a precision bench rest shooter and I don't compete. While I like to build the most accurate ammo I can for range shooting or hunting, how much difference does .001 actually make both on paper or in the field, where there are so many variables?

Third, Several people have commented in the past that simply chambering the round, especially on a good bolt action, will likely correct any concentricity issues. Can't say if this is reality or conjecture, but it bears thought.

Last but not least, this does add time and complexity to the reloading process. So I guess anyone considering one of these really needs to question whether or not the desired effort is worth the cost, and will it give the desired results? As for me, I'll continue to use it on my bottleneck rifle loads, but can't say I recommend it overall to the average reloader. Personally I think you would get better results buying the precision seating die for around the same cost.
You be the judge.

EDIT: I will say I have found factory ammo with in excess of .005 runout...and corrected it.

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The one item that improved my loads the most was Redding comp seating dies. Bushing sizing dies a fair second.
 
This isn't about a item but about a "type" of item...because I started with the original, wasn't thrilled, but other "copies" of it really make me happy: The Lyman M-die expander

I first got into a "M" profile expander because I was having issues with my seating die shaving polymer coating. I tried more expansion, but that lead to tipping bullets and them not starting straight into the case...plus I started over expanding to the point of the case handing up on the seating die

I got the Lyman M-die on the recommendation of moderator @Walkalong and was thrilled at how it worked:
1. The sides of the case mouth were parallel rather than flared so it reduced interference entering dies
2. The "step" in the die formed a "cup" that the base of the bullet sat in
3. When the case mouth was expanded "just enough", a bullet placed in the case mouth would be held securely enough that the case could be inverted and the bullet wouldn't fall out
4. The bullet was secure enough that it wouldn't shift as it traveled from station to station on my progressive

My only complaint was that the finish and texturing of the die didn't match the price of the piece.
1. The checkering diamonds were flat
2. The sides of the locking ring for the adjustment knob looked unfinished

Luckily Redding and RCBS stated offering expanders utilizing the "M" profile. They have the advantage of being nicer finished with sharp checkering and satin finished bodies. RCBS even offers a "M" profile PTX for their powder measure...which also fits the Hornady powder measure. Then there were replacement PTX inserts for the Dillon powder measures. Most recently Lee offers their Square Start PTX for their Autodrum.

I've used all of these and they all work as well, if not better than the Lyman. The ones I have currently on my progressive presses are the Redding and the Lee
 
We should start a 'Not all it's cracked up to be' thread... of stuff that you bought and hasn't lived up to the hype.

I think if I had just given the $20 to a crackhead for more drugs, we both would have been better off, than wasting my time and money on one of these.

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I have a lot of Lee stuff that works but this one was a swing and a miss.

It works great for about 8 minutes then you need to take it apart and boil the fingers to "reset" them for another 8 minutes of fun before it starts spitting bullets everywhere again.

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When you are trying to help production numbers and have to go to zero to boil your reloading parts, you have time to really study the saying, "a watched pot never boils."...

The design they copied worked but it was two metal fingers that had adjustable tension and cost a lot more.

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I think if I had just given the $20 to a crackhead for more drugs, we both would have been better off, than wasting my time and money on one of these.

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I have a lot of Lee stuff that works but this one was a swing and a miss.

It works great for about 8 minutes then you need to take it apart and boil the fingers to "reset" them for another 8 minutes of fun before it starts spitting bullets everywhere again.

View attachment 1247171

When you are trying to help production numbers and have to go to zero to boil your reloading parts, you have time to really study the saying, "a watched pot never boils."...

The design they copied worked but it was two metal fingers that had adjustable tension and cost a lot more.

View attachment 1247170

View attachment 1247169
Will the Lee 4-tube bullet feeder die fit/work in it's place? Mine works flawlessly and the 4 tubes hold roughly 25-30 bullets each so can drop 100 (or close to) without refilling. Just a thought.
 
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My favorite piece(s) of reloading gear are the 3 RCBS competition or Match Master seating dies with the window. Unfortunately they don't make one in .220 Swift so I ended up buying a Redding competition seater. Also a very good piece of equipment, not better than RCBS but just as good.
 
Will the Lee 4-tube bullet feeder die fit/work in it's place? Mine works flawlessly and the 4 tubes hold roughly 25-30 bullets each so can drop 100 (or close to) without refilling. Just a thought.

Those will work for a dropper but do not seat the bullet to depth at the same station.

The GSI feeders do as do a number of "window" style rifle dies but the pistol "droppers" eat up a station, just setting the bullet on top of a case, then you need room past for a seat then crimp die and one before the dropper for a powder check.
 
Will the Lee 4-tube bullet feeder die fit/work in it's place? Mine works flawlessly and the 4 tubes hold roughly 25-30 bullets each so can drop 100 (or close to) without refilling. Just a thought.
Different animal. The older Lee tried to feed bullets and seat them at the same station

The new Lee Inline bullet feeder works very well but it takes up an extra station on the progressive.
 
Recently bought one of these:


I've only used it once on some 7mm-08 brass. I like it so much I'm thinking of selling off my Annealeze.

I also like the Lee Ram Prime for small quantities of brass to prime. I use the RCBS bench primer for larger amounts.
 
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