45 Dragoon
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Wooo Hooo!! Welcome BigD !!! ( thanks for the plug !!!)
THR Remington 1858 Club
- Thread starter Shoot The Moon
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72coupe
Member
Are you going to shoot it upside down?
Nickel Plated
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- 385
Posted it in it's own thread but what the hell. Might as well join the party.
My Uberti Navy converted for .38 Special using a Kirst kit.
Bought from Dixie Gun Works about 4 months ago. I replaced the barrel witha proper .357cal barrel from an Uberti factory conversion. Cheaper and easier than sending the gun away to be rebored. Also stripped off the original bluing using vinegar to get that antique "in the white" look. Might need a bit more weathering though. Still looks too new.
My Uberti Navy converted for .38 Special using a Kirst kit.
Bought from Dixie Gun Works about 4 months ago. I replaced the barrel witha proper .357cal barrel from an Uberti factory conversion. Cheaper and easier than sending the gun away to be rebored. Also stripped off the original bluing using vinegar to get that antique "in the white" look. Might need a bit more weathering though. Still looks too new.
BHP FAN
Member
just like ''Hell on Wheels''!
Nickel Plated
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No. The percussion type original.
Like this:
http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=512163
Like this:
http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=512163
vagunmonkey
Member
What is the difference between the Remington police and the Remington Navy (36) other the perhaps the barrel length?
vagunmonkey
Member
Ok thanks.
Nickel Plated
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- Jun 14, 2012
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Oh never seen that one before.
Really wish someone made a gated .32 cal conversion for the Remington Pocket.
Really wish someone made a gated .32 cal conversion for the Remington Pocket.
Diogenes415
Member
72coupe said:
I think he just lives down under.
72coupe
Member
Ah! That must be it.
New Roster:
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Berkley
Member
The Pietta/Cabela's "Model 1858 New Army Police .36 Caliber Revolver" is just an 1858 Army in .36 caliber with a 6.5" barrel. Because of the thicker barrel and cylinder walls resulting from the smaller bore, it actually weighs an ounce more than the 8" barrel Pietta New Army. As rodwha says, the original police model is much smaller and lighter than the army.
Doak
Member
Doak
Member
rodwha ~
Flash gap flange in cylinder.
Chambers reamed w/.450'' reamer. Finished at .452"
Frame & cylinder case hardened. This is to stop wear, especially in the cylinder locking slots.
Action job, w/hammer main spring lightened. Had to make a new hammer roller & pin. Factory roller assembly was badly botched.
Bottom front of grip frame straight down 90' to cylinder pin. Grip scales reshaped.
Hammer striker face shortened & matched to angle of capsules. Oddly enuff, the mid chamber hammer resting slots still work...just barely.
Think that's about it.
Thanks for asking.
Flash gap flange in cylinder.
Chambers reamed w/.450'' reamer. Finished at .452"
Frame & cylinder case hardened. This is to stop wear, especially in the cylinder locking slots.
Action job, w/hammer main spring lightened. Had to make a new hammer roller & pin. Factory roller assembly was badly botched.
Bottom front of grip frame straight down 90' to cylinder pin. Grip scales reshaped.
Hammer striker face shortened & matched to angle of capsules. Oddly enuff, the mid chamber hammer resting slots still work...just barely.
Think that's about it.
Thanks for asking.
Doak: What is a flash gap flange?
I had my chambers reamed to .449", but wanted as close to .452" as possible.
I've been thinking of having my cylinder hardened as well.
I had to reshape my hammer nose so that it fit properly in the safety notches.
I also had to reshape the hand and bolt as they were tearing up my cylinder.
My loading window had to be opened up to accommodate bullets.
Mine shoots left a bit, and once I really zero in on an accurate load I'd like to see what there is to be done to center it better.
It also shoots low, but I'll file the sight when I'm ready.
Do you have any intentions of trying Olde Eynsford powder? I get mine from Grafs and it's only $1 more per lb than their standard Goex, but performs like Swiss.
I had my chambers reamed to .449", but wanted as close to .452" as possible.
I've been thinking of having my cylinder hardened as well.
I had to reshape my hammer nose so that it fit properly in the safety notches.
I also had to reshape the hand and bolt as they were tearing up my cylinder.
My loading window had to be opened up to accommodate bullets.
Mine shoots left a bit, and once I really zero in on an accurate load I'd like to see what there is to be done to center it better.
It also shoots low, but I'll file the sight when I'm ready.
Do you have any intentions of trying Olde Eynsford powder? I get mine from Grafs and it's only $1 more per lb than their standard Goex, but performs like Swiss.
Doak
Member
rodwha ~
The flash gap flange, aka. cylinder bushing, gas ring, flash gap bushing, protrudes at the front of the cylinder, around the cylinder pivot pin, aka. base pin.
It protrudes about 5/32'' under the flash gap, which is the gap between the back of the barrel and the front of cylinder. The flange, or bushing, is usually pressed into a larger hole, at the front of the cylinder, centered around where the base pin comes out. The I.D. of the bushing being the same as the I.D. of the base pin hole.
The purpose of the flange is to keep the flash, escaping the flash gap, from gas cutting the base pin and from packing fouling between the bearing surfaces of the base pin and the cylinder. That packed fouling often seizes up cylinders of revolvers w/out flash gap bushings. Sometimes after only 3 or 4 shots.
Open top Colts and Rem 1858s don't have flash gap bushings. They're the ones w/the problem. It took the industry awhile to fix it.
Rem 1858s can be "fixed" w/a little surgery. Fortunately, the gun lends itself well to the operation. Some of the frame gets cut away to make room for the bushing (flange).
The purpose of my 2nd foto from the left, is to show the flash gap flange.
One of the great design features of the ROA is that it has a flash gap bushing (flange)!
Yeah, I know what you're dealin' with. The cylinders on all the Italian cap guns, that I've seen, have been too soft, and get chewed up by the harder lockwork parts.
I don't know when I'll try some Ol' Eynsford. Coonie's is my source, and they have it. Just gotta remember to beg for a can, next order. :-D
Glad to see you're in pursuit of an improved revolver! There's always somethin' more to do.
The flash gap flange, aka. cylinder bushing, gas ring, flash gap bushing, protrudes at the front of the cylinder, around the cylinder pivot pin, aka. base pin.
It protrudes about 5/32'' under the flash gap, which is the gap between the back of the barrel and the front of cylinder. The flange, or bushing, is usually pressed into a larger hole, at the front of the cylinder, centered around where the base pin comes out. The I.D. of the bushing being the same as the I.D. of the base pin hole.
The purpose of the flange is to keep the flash, escaping the flash gap, from gas cutting the base pin and from packing fouling between the bearing surfaces of the base pin and the cylinder. That packed fouling often seizes up cylinders of revolvers w/out flash gap bushings. Sometimes after only 3 or 4 shots.
Open top Colts and Rem 1858s don't have flash gap bushings. They're the ones w/the problem. It took the industry awhile to fix it.
Rem 1858s can be "fixed" w/a little surgery. Fortunately, the gun lends itself well to the operation. Some of the frame gets cut away to make room for the bushing (flange).
The purpose of my 2nd foto from the left, is to show the flash gap flange.
One of the great design features of the ROA is that it has a flash gap bushing (flange)!
Yeah, I know what you're dealin' with. The cylinders on all the Italian cap guns, that I've seen, have been too soft, and get chewed up by the harder lockwork parts.
I don't know when I'll try some Ol' Eynsford. Coonie's is my source, and they have it. Just gotta remember to beg for a can, next order. :-D
Glad to see you're in pursuit of an improved revolver! There's always somethin' more to do.
Last edited:
Ah ha.
I've actually been thinking how it might be cool to work this pistol over by shortening the barrel to 3.5-4", have the cylinder ground back to produce the flange you speak of since 30 grns and either of my bullets, which the longer (195 grn) is only .460" long, and leaves plenty of room even with a wad, having more threads put on the barrel so it will screw in further to meet the cylinder again, and rounding the butt. I'd need a cheater bar to regain leverage on the losing lever, but that's not a big deal.
I've been using Ballistol on my base pin, and it keeps it working very well. I don't know that it would ever bind up, though I do wipe off the cylinder ever couple of loadings. It used to bind up on the third cylinder full, and was difficult to slide the base pin forward.
I've actually been thinking how it might be cool to work this pistol over by shortening the barrel to 3.5-4", have the cylinder ground back to produce the flange you speak of since 30 grns and either of my bullets, which the longer (195 grn) is only .460" long, and leaves plenty of room even with a wad, having more threads put on the barrel so it will screw in further to meet the cylinder again, and rounding the butt. I'd need a cheater bar to regain leverage on the losing lever, but that's not a big deal.
I've been using Ballistol on my base pin, and it keeps it working very well. I don't know that it would ever bind up, though I do wipe off the cylinder ever couple of loadings. It used to bind up on the third cylinder full, and was difficult to slide the base pin forward.
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