Thread Ruger Mk 2 or buy integrally suppressed

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atek3

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So I moved to CT and set up an NFA trust. I want a 22lr pistol with a can on it.

My first thought was buy a screw-on that I can share between my 22lr pistol and rifles, but I learned more about CT law... no threaded barrels on handguns made after 1994.

So that leaves either using a pre-ban gun or buying an integrally suppressed gun.

I just got off the phone with Ruger and my Mk 2 Bull Barrel was made in 1984, but technically speaking, isn't the "upper" the serialized part? So I'm not sure I could just swap in a new top end.

Any idea what the relative cost between upgrading my mk 2 + a good can vs. buying an integrally suppressed mk3/ 22/45?

thanks,
atek3
 
A Garden variety integral will cost you $1000-$1300 to build on YOUR gun.

Threading your barrel will run $120 or so and a good silencer is in the $400 range or less.

While integrals are nice if you have money to throw around its hard to justify them cost vs value wise.
 
You are correct about the barrel/receiver being the part with the serial number. They can be threaded and move the sight back. I have done it once myself and wouldn't do it again for $120.
 
I was going to recommend tornado technologies . He used to do it for $120 ish but apparently his nerves got fried doing it and he stopped accepting the Mark II for work.

Looking more like $175 now elsewhere. Still cheap for the work done.

http://www.jpgrips.com/page7


Saylors Machine ( David Saylor, Liberty Silencers. They do excellent work ) will do it for $125 but their lead time is 6 months or so.

http://saylorsmachine.com/services.html
 
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Ya that's a tough situation.

What about using this item? You could create a small indent in say the bottom of the barrel for the set screw to drive into so it won't move. As long as you can unscrew it by hand it should not legally be considered part of your barrel. (Compare with a 14" AR barrel and a 2-1/2" muzzle device, unless the device is pinned on "permanently" it is not considered part of the barrel/barrel length on a federal level at least).

You could probably build one that has a slot on the top to go around a front sight for other handguns. Just have to do something to make sure it's stable/secure.
 

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You could probably build one that has a slot on the top to go around a front sight for other handguns. Just have to do something to make sure it's stable/secure.

I think it'd be a near miracle for a device like this to not have concentricity issues and consequent baffle strikes. Probably OK for a flash hider or muzzle break but I'm highly skeptical of using something like this on a suppressor!
 
I think it'd be a near miracle for a device like this to not have concentricity issues and consequent baffle strikes. Probably OK for a flash hider or muzzle break but I'm highly skeptical of using something like this on a suppressor!
I agree, but if it were my only option, I'd make it work. :D
 
Look at the Tactical Solutions uppers for the Browning Buckmark. Buy a pre '94 Buckmark and put that onto it.

Nice to get a Buckmark with either short or long barrel and then get the upper opposite of that. Short and light is best for a can.

I think they also make uppers for the Ruger but it is the #'ed part which I think may be an issue for you.
 
i just restored a beat up MKII. cutting to 4.5",threading, moving the sight back, and even turning the barrel down to remove the warning, cost $175. thats the way id go. even a low end suppressor can be had for $250.
 
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