Timber Ridge Safes or RSC ...whatever you want to call it

[phantomak47]

I was wondering if timberidge safes by liberty are made for Gander Mountain or if they are a bottom level safe? I know that they are not real safes, but they serve my purpose just fine. Any info regarding these "safes" is apprecaited. thanks

 

[chetrogers]

Anything is better then nothing.Some folks will tell you that you need to spend more money to get something.Buy the most expencive you can .If you can only afford a 99 dollar metal cabinet its better then nothing.Just my opinion.

 

[Ala Dan]

Never heard of a "Timber Ridge" safe by Liberty; and I sell Liberty safe's~!

 

[phantomak47]

ala dan,

I guess they are made for Gander mountain, I have their bouchere on it.


How do you like liberty safes, I am only really concerned with smash and Grab.

Gander mountain sells a 50 cubic sq.ft liberty safe for $1800.00 how is that for a liberty safe.

 

[22WMR]

I am also interested in one of these safes, the 17cubic foot safe (RSC). Did you end up purchasing the 50ft? How do you like it if you did?

I just need something to throw 5 long guns and 6 pistols in. Would this keep them safer from theft? I have homeowners insurance if a professional breaks into it, but am mostly concerned, as stated above, about the smash and grab robbery. Will this hold up?

Thanks.

 

[a1abdj]

Although I'm not a huge fan of Liberty because of the misinformation they spew, they do make an OK product that will serve to protect your items from a smash and grab burglary (even though a dead bolt on a closet would achieve the same purpose and cost $900 less).

I deliver a lot of Liberty products, and have heard of very few problems with them.

To the Liberty dealers: Liberty is working on selling you all out. They are already building safes under different names, selling them to larger retailers, who can then sell the same safe that you're selling to the public (with a different name painted on the front) for less than your wholesale cost.

They are also experimenting with selling factory direct through a nation wide delivery service. How can a reseller compete against the manufacturer?

 

[Technical Fowl]

I looked at Timber Ridge safes this weekend, as I am looking to purchase a safe in the next couple weeks. Some of the differences that I observed between the Timber Ridge safes and the Liberty safes is that the Timber Ridge fire rating are a little lower (example: 30 minutes instead of 45 minutes) and that the door did not have top or bottom locking bolts. There are some cosmetic differences, like the exterior graphics and the interior shelving material. Granted I'm no expert, but the Timber Ridge safes seem like a very good deal.

 

[22WMR]

(even though a dead bolt on a closet would achieve the same purpose and cost $900 less).

My closet doors are all hollow core and I think if you were to put a dead bolt on a closet door, the theif would kinda figure out that there is probably a good chance of finding an item of value in there! Most doors can be taken apart relatively quick, I know cause I have taken them apart myself with ease. A deadbolt would just scream "IN HERE, IN HERE, HE KEEPS ALL HIS STUFF HERE!!!" Atleast a 400-500 lb safe would make em have to work a bit at opening it.

But I wouldn't mind putting a deadbolt on the closet door after putting the safe in there.... along with my ammo supply.

 

[a1abdj]

My closet doors are all hollow core and I think if you were to put a dead bolt on a closet door, the theif would kinda figure out that there is probably a good chance of finding an item of value in there!

Not any more than a safe sitting in plain view.

Atleast a 400-500 lb safe would make em have to work a bit at opening it.

Most of that safe's weight is gypsum board. The types of safes you are looking at use 1/10" (12 gauge) steel for both the bodies and the door.

There is a locksmith in Austrailia who has made a video of him opening a fire rated safe of similar construction with a hand operated can opener and a butter knife.

A good quality solid wood or hollow steel door with a decent deadbolt will give you just about the same level of protection as that gun safe will. If you're worried about somebody going through the wall, then you could add some 3/4" plywood to the inside.

 

[Technical Fowl]

Frank, no disrespect, but you stated:

"A good quality solid wood or hollow steel door with a decent deadbolt will give you just about the same level of protection as that gun safe will. If you're worried about somebody going through the wall, then you could add some 3/4" plywood to the inside."

If that's the case, then why buy a safe in the first place?

 

[a1abdj]

If that's the case, then why buy a safe in the first place?

People have a tendency to look at a square box with a dial and a handle and say "gee...it's a safe". You can put two different safes next to each other, and most people couldn't begin to start to explain the differences apart from the size, shape, and color.

Gun safes are a small segment of the total safe market. There are many types of safes aside from the sheet metal boxes built by many of the safe companies. I sell some of these sheet metal safes myself because there is a need, and more importantly, a demand.

If you are simply needing something to keep the kids out, or a casual smash and grab thief, you simply don't need a real safe. A locked closet or locking cabinet will do you just as good. Although my business involves selling security products, I am a firm believer in selling somebody what they need. If they don't really need a safe, I'll be the first to tell them that they're wasting their money.

Let's look at safes like a car. If you need something to take you to work and back you can buy either a Ferrari or a Yugo. Both will accomplish the same task, but one will save you a lot of money. If you were planning on racing, then obviously the roles are reversed.

I am only really concerned with smash and Grab.

Since the original poster has stated no other concerns, then there are many cheaper alternatives that will serve the same purpose.

 

[chetrogers]

Im pretty sure i coudlnt get into a 12 gage safe without it taking a while.But im pretty sure i could kick through a wooden door pretty easy beeing a big guy..The 12 gage arnt going to work for somebody who knows what there doing but are gonna slow down the snatch and grab person.Even if it slows them down a few mins its better then nothing.Just my thoughts on the 12 gage safes..I have one that is 12 or 10 I dont remember and i feel better with it then i would with a wooden door of any kind.

 

[22WMR]

I hope you are not recomending customers to lock their guns in a closet door with a deadbolt.... Someone is eventually going to get broke into and you are going to get sued. I can hear it now..." he told me it would be a better alternative cause I was wasting my money on a safe!" Not a really good idea man.

:banghead:

Frankly I don't know what kind of doors you are talking about, but almost every house I have ever been in, has hollow core doors... You put a dead bolt on it, it isn't going to deter them. Kick it in and it is open. Takes about 5 seconds. No one is going to hear it. They will probably be in and out in less than 10 min. No one is probably going to see them.

A RSC (I call it a safe, but you guys can call it whatever you want and make up all the arguments you want that it isn't, whatever) offers much more over a "door with a deadbolt". I would love to see someone come over and using a can opener and a butter knife, open a safe. If they can, great for them. My insurance company will handle it from there. I did my part, locked them up in a Certified Security Container. Unfotunantly, most theives are NOT smart enough to know how to do this. Hence the reason for being a theif... not exactly that smart to begin with. Most snatch and run theives, do not want to take the time to be in a house for very long. If it is going to take them 20-30 minutes and a lot of noise to open something, they wont bother. A closet door would be hit very easily.

Maybe I should just get a gun cabinet with a glass door? Hell screw it I will just save my money and leave them out with a note attached... "please do not take these guns- Thanks"

Also, I think you might want to check out business classes or something. I do not advocate ripping people off, but if I come in to buy a product that costs 600-1200$, I expect to be shown some product. Not be told.... Well whatcha' wanna do now, is take one of them there bolts and lock em up real tight. You are not going to make any money doing business that way, and most people will just go elsewhere. You are not selling someone something they do not need, they have already decided they need it... you job is to sell them something they want, and they asked for. Nothing else. I am really tired of people trying to tell me I want something else when I come and ask for a specific item. If I wanted the other thing, I would've asked for it. Thanks.

I didn't ask how this safe compares to a clost door with a deadbolt. I simply asked how others liked it in terms of quailty of build, room, and overall feeling of security. I am glad you are happy putting your things in a closet door. I am not. If all I can afford is a 700$ safe that may not be as good as a 4K$ safe, well I will have to deal with it when the time comes that something bad happens. Right now, I can afford this price range.

/rant

 

[Technical Fowl]

Well said 22WMR.

 

[a1abdj]

I hope you are not recomending customers to lock their guns in a closet door with a deadbolt

I didn't say a hollow core closet door. I said:

A good quality solid wood or hollow steel door with a decent deadbolt will give you just about the same level of protection as that gun safe will.

Im pretty sure i coudlnt get into a 12 gage safe without it taking a while.But im pretty sure i could kick through a wooden door pretty easy beeing a big guy

You obviously have never kicked a quality solid wood or hollow steel door. But let's not consider kicking, as that wouldn't work in either case. Let's say your burglar has an axe. He could probably get into that safe or or that closet in roughly the same amount of time. Of course most people don't believe that smash and grab theives come armed with tools. So if you're just worried about kicking, then they'll be fine behind that quality closet door.

i feel better with it then i would with a wooden door of any kind.

That's the problem with many of these gun safe manufacturers. They sell you a feeling and nothing more. The truth remains that 1/10" steel is 1/10" steel. That's not really going to stop much of anything. At least a quality wood door will give you almost 2" of solid thickness. A quality steel door may be hollow, but it is double walled.

I hope you are not recomending customers to lock their guns in a closet door with a deadbolt.... Someone is eventually going to get broke into and you are going to get sued.

When (and if) I am sued, I will take a haul a 12 gauge gun safe and door like I mentioned into the court room. I will give the jury a stopwatch, and they can time me as I take an axe to each. I doubt I'll loose.

Believe me when I say: I'm in the safe business, and believe everybody should own a safe. Furthermore, they should buy that safe from me. However, if you're only looking to slow a thief down by a few minutes, there are cheaper alternatives, and the money you would spend on a safe would be better spent upgrading your existing security.

If a theif is going to spend more than a few minutes in your home, then you better have something more than 1/10" thick standing between him and your valuables.

 

[Texas_Archer]

BACK TO THE ORIGINAL QUESTION

What about the safes? Anyone heard anything good about them?

 

[CB900F]

Texas;

Like a1abdj, I'm in the business. I'm a professional locksmith who specializes in safe sales. I've not heard of Timberline.

Liberty: They get no respect from me. None. They are a triumph of marketing and offer very little real security. Especially when price is factored in.

900F

 

[Ash]

It's called Timber Ridge and is the same as the Centurion line of Liberty Safes except it has 10 gauge instead of 12. I have one, and a deadbolt being the same is absurd. A wooden door frame with a hollow core steel door would still be much easier to break through than the safe for two reasons. First, you have but one hardpoint to destroy, that is the bolt. Second, the wood would give much easier than the steel of the safe and its five bolts. A truly determined thief could get into the safe, and it certainly is not something you would want to keep a $100,000 diamond in, but it is better than a gun cabinet and is much better than the deadbolt on a door. I know, I've had to crowbar through doors and through steel cabinets (never a safe, though). And the door was much easier to crowbar through (old solid heart pine door) than the steel cabinet that had to have the steel warped around the bolt. And that steel was a much thinner gauge than 12.

But, thieves aside, said safe is VASTLY better at protecting against fire than said deadbolt. When all was said and done, you'd have a charred deadbolt and a bunch of charred barrelled actions. While there is no guarantee that the safe will outlast the fire, the safe will certainly do much, much better. I bought mine because I wish to protect a Mossberg 183 bolt action .410 shotgun and a Western Field .22LR rifle. Neither have high monetary value, both are priceless family heirlooms that cannot be replaced if they burned.

(I know this thread is somewhat stale, but I've been out a while).

Ash

 

[a1abdj]

For around $60,000 I can turn your basement into a bank quality vault which is much better protection against fire and burglary than any gun safe on the market.

Of course, you'll say that you don't need to spend $60,000, because you don't really need that level of protection, and that is definately true 99.99% of the time.

The original poster said:

I am only really concerned with smash and Grab.

I never said that a deadbolt offers better fireproofing, nor did I ever claim that a deadbolt would protect better than the locking bolts of a safe. What I did say is that it would take me (or any smash and grab thief) about the same amount of time to break into a typical Liberty safe as it would to break into a closet which used a quality door and deadbolt.

If smash and grab thieves are you only concern, then the deadbolt is a much less expensive route to go, and will accomplish the exact same purpose. If your thief is carrying a crowbar he's getting into the closet or the safe regardless. If he's not carrying any tools, he probably won't get into either.

If you don't have an alarm system, the money you save by not buying a safe will allow you to do so. It could also feed your dog for a year, buy a handgun for your significant other, install motion lights, or any number of other security measures that will increase your overall odds of never becoming a victim in the first place.

 

[defendfreedom]

I would check out Patriot Safe Co.

We have exactly what you are looking for. Please feel free to review the following info:

Gun Safe - Fire & Security Information
IMPORTANT!...Know what you are buying!

We understand that some people just want to protect thier children and don't require a huge thick gun safe with tons of fire protection.

We have a safe for everyone and every budget!

What is the difference between a "Novelty Gun Safe" and a "Commercial Style Gun Safe?"

Most gun safe manufacturers use only low cost gypsum board for your "fire protection". We are talking about most of the popular gun safes sold in gun stores, large chain stores or bulk savings stores. 1880° Pyro-Block fire protection gives you twice the fire protection ever offered before. Most companies offer 1200° for 30 min. A standard house fire burns at 1100° for 27 min. That is not much in the way of protection. 1850° Pyro-blocker plus U.L listed x-type fire rated fire board in "combination" gives you an hour, up to 90 mins, depending on which level of fire protection fits your needs.



A dealers job is to market and sell safes at huge mark-up because there is not much profit on new gun sales. Accessories including gun safes have inflated and unjustified mark-ups in gun stores. Factory direct saves you hundreds of dollars.

Would you like the factory's good deal or the middleman's?

These same "safes", if you can call them "safes", are constructed from flimsy 12 gauge steel which is less than 1/8" of an inch thick. (that's the same as most filing cabinets!) I don't know about you, but I can't see myself sticking guns worth thousands of dollars in a 12 gauge filing cabinet. A combo lock does not mean "safe".I could see buying 12 gauge if you are just looking to protect the kids but don't think for 1 second those guns are safe from thieves or fire! A security cabinet is not a safe! When choosing between 12 gauge or 10 Gauge with Pyro-Block...

Which would you choose?

When it comes to gun safe interiors don't be talked into fuzzy residential carpeting. Fuzz and gun oil don't mix let me tell you. The truth is these companies are just making more money buy passing off remnant carpet as "high grade" interior.

Do you want fuzz, dust and moisture caught in you gun collection and other valuables?

A hinge on any door's first purpose is to swing the door. A lot of gun safe companies are trying to pass off internal hinges as better. The truth is their just cheaper to construct. They might look good but your door will only open 90 degrees instead of 180 degrees. The second thing is the door cannot be taken off for moving the safe. They tend to sag over the years not to mention they cut away the fire protection to house the internal hinge which depletes the fire rating.

Are internal hinges that good looking?

The thing that I would warn about most in the gun safe industry is the blatant disregard for security. A few companies have gone as far as to show the internal boltwork or giving a diagram of how the relockers work. In some cases even showing the actual relocker and the way its placed in the safe. To me this is the first sign of a company that cares more about the bottom line more than if your goods will always be safely protected.

Do you want to buy a safe that every crook in the world knows exactly how your keeping him out?

99.9 % of all gun safe manufacturers will tell you that their product is the best in the industry, we will tell you that if it has at least 1-1/4" inch body construction, 2" inch door (5'' overall), Top, bottom, left and right locking bolts they might be right!
When shopping for your safe remember that you will have it forever. Remember that what you pay for your safe is buying a lifetime of protection and peace of mind. Take your time, don't be rushed or pushed into what someone else thinks is right for you. Regardless of the great deal your being offered a serious purchase that you have to live with forever deserves a little thought and consideration.

Patriot Safe Co.
www.patriotsafe.com
877.743.5372​

 

[CB900F]

Defend;

Does the Patriot with the 1880 pyro-block meet the U.L. 1 hour fire standard? A simple yes or no answer will suffice.

900F

 

[ramon]

Confusion

Buying a safe(or RSC) is really a confusing task. The reasons for that include a whole lot of misleading advertising and hype. A shiney enamel paint job and 47 chrome bolts don't mean much if the top or sides can be knocked in with a sledge or axe. There are experts here like alabdj and CB900, who know what they are talking about and are honest. alabdj helped me buy a great safe even tho the logistics didn't allow me to by it from him. If you spend a lot of time shopping for a safe you will see the truth in the many posts they have made.

 

[Vibe]

I'm also now in the market for a decent safe for the gun collection. I've got my eye on the Sentry 14 gun "fire protectected" safe. Is there a better safe of the same size available for less than $500? (my price locally) If so, from where?

 

[1 old 0311]

Hate to get back to the topic but the Timber Ridge looks like a good value for the money.

 

[a1abdj]

Aside from the glossy paint on the Timber Ridge safes, you can buy imported gun safes (sold under a variety of names) that cost less than the Timber Ridge (or Liberty, or John Deere, or Craftsman, or Lifesafe, or any other name Liberty puts on their safes), and are built better.

If you wanted to compare model to model, I would need to know which one you are looking at but:

There are gun safes that I have available to me, that have 1/8" (10ga) bodies, 1/4" worth of steel in the door, gear driven boltwork, locks on all 4 sides, UL listed locks, relocker, bolt holes, etc...., and they range in price from $650 to $1,100 depending on size.

The Liberties will most likely have 12 gauge bodies, and 12 gauge doors with a plate welded across the back to support the lock. I would not suggest trying this at the store, but Browning has an informational video out regarding their safes. In this video, the guy braces his knee up against the open door of a Liberty, and it flexes like a piece of rubber.

Although I don't consider a 10 gauge safe to be overly secure, it is better than a 12 gauge safe, and is usually the heaviest steel offered by most of the well known gun safe manufacturers.