Tisas CMP 1911A1: Most Accurate WWII Reproduction 1911?

[twofewscrews]

I'm wonder what the most accurate WWII reproduction 1911 is as I believe that will be my next purchase.

I've got my eye on the Tisas 1911A1 being made for the CMP

What am I missing?

Thanks,
Screws

 

[Mark_Mark]

I'm wonder what the most accurate WWII reproduction 1911 is as I believe that will be my next purchase.

I've got my eye on the Tisas 1911A1 being made for the CMP
View attachment 1262365
What am I missing?

Thanks,
Screws

I believe T-Sauce M1911A1 is there standard version (very accurate btw) but with wood grips and a few extra makings

I have 3 T-Sauces and they are GOOD TO GO

 

[trackskippy]

My Tisas 1911's shoot fine, accuracy-wise. Its just getting them to run repetitively to be able to do so is whats been the challenge and frustrating.

 

[243winxb]

https://www.americanrifleman.org/content/review-tisas-1911-a1-asf/

If you can see the sights well, accuray looks great for a type 1911.


This is exceptional accuracy. I have to wonder if it was hand picked from the lot?

 

[twofewscrews]

My Tisas 1911's shoot fine, accuracy-wise. Its just getting them to run repetitively to be able to do so is whats been the challenge and frustrating.

I've been finding mixed reviews on them. Most people say they work fine and a handful of people have real issues.

It sounds like a QC issue.
My RIA showed obvious signs it had actually been hand fit and runs like a top.

I'm curious, did yours look like it had been hand fit at all or were the problems related to something else?

 

[trackskippy]

I've been finding mixed reviews on them. Most people say they work fine and a handful of people have real issues.

It sounds like a QC issue.
My RIA showed obvious signs it had actually been hand fit and runs like a top.

I'm curious, did yours look like it had been hand fit at all or were the problems related to something else?

I seriously doubt there was any hand-fitting. They just slapped parts together and sent them out.

What seemed to be the main problem with all of mine, 45 or 9mm, was that the extractors either left the factory untuned, or they were soft and out of spec, and quickly lost their tune, and that required them to be retuned after a couple of hundred rounds.

Dont know if they had a bad batch of extractors or what, but there was something up there. I did replace the extractor on one of my 9mm's with a Wilson Bulletproof extractor, and that seemed to help considerably.

The two 9mm guns had other issues, too, and I think the ramped barrel they use has a lot to do with it. Once I replaced (or at least tuned) the extractor, polished the ramp and a few other spots, and used select mags the guns liked, things got a lot better, but I still always have some kind of issues with them when I shoot them. I wouldn't trust any of them for anything serious.

My old, well-worn 9mm Colt Commander, with the traditional 1911 style barrel, runs anything I put in it, with the same mags the Tisas often balk at and have problems with, without batting an eye.

I really wanted to like the Tisas guns, as I prefer the basic 1911 over the souped-up guns, and theirs looked to be well made, and very reasonable in price. I don't think they are junk, but they do need help, as do most stock 1911's of their type/series, and even just 1911's in general.

I have a feeling, too, if you gave one to someone who was accustomed to dealing with those types of guns in the now somewhat distant past, they would get them straightened out and up to snuff without too much trouble, as long as the guns were in spec. But most of those people are gone or fading out now, and that's just added money thrown at a gun that, realistically, I would no longer use for anything serious. Nothing wrong with a good, working 1911, but at this point, they have been falling farther and farther back, and other things have surpassed them.

 

[Mark_Mark]

it’s a $300 $400 1911 that shoots good. They also have warranty

 

[twofewscrews]

I seriously doubt there was any hand-fitting. They just slapped parts together and sent them out.

What seemed to be the main problem with all of mine, 45 or 9mm, was that the extractors either left the factory untuned, or they were soft and out of spec, and quickly lost their tune, and that required them to be retuned after a couple of hundred rounds.

Dont know if they had a bad batch of extractors or what, but there was something up there. I did replace the extractor on one of my 9mm's with a Wilson Bulletproof extractor, and that seemed to help considerably.

The two 9mm guns had other issues, too, and I think the ramped barrel they use has a lot to do with it. Once I replaced (or at least tuned) the extractor, polished the ramp and a few other spots, and used select mags the guns liked, things got a lot better, but I still always have some kind of issues with them when I shoot them. I wouldn't trust any of them for anything serious.

My old, well-worn 9mm Colt Commander, with the traditional 1911 style barrel, runs anything I put in it, with the same mags the Tisas often balk at and have problems with, without batting an eye.

I really wanted to like the Tisas guns, as I prefer the basic 1911 over the souped-up guns, and theirs looked to be well made, and very reasonable in price. I don't think they are junk, but they do need help, as do most stock 1911's of their type/series, and even just 1911's in general.

I have a feeling, too, if you gave one to someone who was accustomed to dealing with those types of guns in the now somewhat distant past, they would get them straightened out and up to snuff without too much trouble, as long as the guns were in spec. But most of those people are gone or fading out now, and that's just added money thrown at a gun that, realistically, I would no longer use for anything serious. Nothing wrong with a good, working 1911, but at this point, they have been falling farther and farther back, and other things have surpassed them.

Thanks for the feedback.

Some of the complaints I've found claim that feed ramp is 34 or 35 degrees instead of the normal 31 to 31.5 degrees which makes feeding an issue.

I do enjoy a bit of tinkering so having to do a bit of work is not a deal breaker for me, but I've only owned and tinkered with a single 1911 and some of the issues people seem to have with Tisas, reshaping the feed ramps for example, are well beyond my comfort level.

Polishing internals or parts that I can replace don't bother me but making changing to the frame is different ball game.

 

[twofewscrews]

it’s a $300 $400 1911 that shoots good. They also have warranty

Honestly it's not so much the function I'm concerned with, although I do want something that functions with either no effort or little effort on my part, but rather the form I'm interested in.

I want the .45, the gun the greatest generation and subsequent generations used in combat, the lords work, the American warhorse, etc . . . But also want it to be something I can abuse and fix myself.

I love the look of the classic 1911 A1. Auto Ordinance also makes one that's pretty good but it's got series 80s internals which is a deal breaker for me.

 

[Mark_Mark]

Thanks for the feedback.

Some of the complaints I've found claim that feed ramp is 34 or 35 degrees instead of the normal 31 to 31.5 degrees which makes feeding an issue.

I do enjoy a bit of tinkering so having to do a bit of work is not a deal breaker for me, but I've only owned and tinkered with a single 1911 and some of the issues people seem to have with Tisas, reshaping the feed ramps for example, are well beyond my comfort level.

Polishing internals or parts that I can replace don't bother me but making changing to the frame is different ball game.

my T-Sauce feeds empty cases

 

[Mark_Mark]

Honestly it's not so much the function I'm concerned with, although I do want something that functions with either no effort or little effort on my part, but rather the form I'm interested in.

I want the .45, the gun the greatest generation and subsequent generations used in combat, the lords work, the American warhorse, etc . . . But also want it to be something I can abuse and fix myself.

I love the look of the classic 1911 A1. Auto Ordinance also makes one that's pretty good but it's got series 80s internals which is a deal breaker for me.
View attachment 1262381

just buy it… I’ll buy one too

 

[trackskippy]

Thanks for the feedback.

Some of the complaints I've found claim that feed ramp is 34 or 35 degrees instead of the normal 31 to 31.5 degrees which makes feeding an issue.

I do enjoy a bit of tinkering so having to do a bit of work is not a deal breaker for me, but I've only owned and tinkered with a single 1911 and some of the issues people seem to have with Tisas, reshaping the feed ramps for example, are well beyond my comfort level.

Polishing internals or parts that I can replace don't bother me but making changing to the frame is different ball game.

I dont know what the ramp angles are. All I know is, these and a couple of other 1911's Ive had in that past, that had the same sort of ramp barrel set up, all were trouble compared to the original barrel design.

All I did to the feed ramps here was hit them with a Dremel with a polishing tip and some compound. I just polished things, I didn't get crazy. They cleaned up nicely and noticeably, and it did seem to help things. I did the same to the extractor claw, disconnector rail, lower portion of the firing pin retainer, face of the hammer, etc., and they noticeably smoothed out, and did seem to function better.

The thing with the Tisas is, at the price point they are, its sort of a double-edged sword. They are cheap enough you aren't to afraid to fiddle, but if you get aggravated with them, they arent worth much of anything when you go to sell or trade them off. I did finally get rid of two, traded them off, and just took the hit.

If you get one that works, you probably got a good deal. Although most of the people Ive seen talking about them, didn't seem to have put a lot of rounds through them yet at the time to really know, or at least what I would consider enough to really know.

A couple of mine seemed to run OK at first blush, and I was thinking Id just got a couple of bad ones with the others, but they all had the same extractor issue, and as time wore on, some other issues started popping up the more I shot them. Id say if you get through a case with one without too much trouble, you're probably OK. I never made it to 4-500 rounds with any of mine before it was obvious something was up.

The way I look at things here too is, this is just typical clone 1911 crap, and Tisas isn't the only problem here either. I quit buying Springfields, and a couple of others 25 years or so ago because of similar crap. And about 5 years ago, against my better judgment, I gave a Springfield another try and instantly regretted it.

Depending on what you want and expect out of them, all you can do is spend your money, take your chances, and see how things go.

my T-Sauce feeds empty cases

Happy yours does. Mine didn't reliably feed loaded ammo without help, and still often dont.

 

[someguy2800]

I had a Tisas Stainless Commander for a bit. I don't recall what parts it was, but on mine there were some internal parts that were machined a little differently than an original colt 1911 that made it difficult to tear it down using only the parts of the gun as tools. I can't remember what it was though. Maybe the main spring strut? I seam to remember it was square instead of round or something like that.

So in any case it may be the most accurate externally, but maybe not internally. Mine did function great and I was impressed by the overall machining quality.

 

[Mark_Mark]

I dont know what the ramp angles are. All I know is, these and a couple of other 1911's Ive had in that past, that had the same sort of ramp barrel set up, all were trouble compared to the original barrel design.

All I did to the feed ramps here was hit them with a Dremel with a polishing tip and some compound. I just polished things, I didn't get crazy. They cleaned up nicely and noticeably, and it did seem to help things. I did the same to the extractor claw, disconnector rail, lower portion of the firing pin retainer, face of the hammer, etc., and they noticeably smoothed out, and did seem to function better.

The thing with the Tisas is, at the price point they are, its sort of a double-edged sword. They are cheap enough you aren't to afraid to fiddle, but if you get aggravated with them, they arent worth much of anything when you go to sell or trade them off. I did finally get rid of two, traded them off, and just took the hit.

If you get one that works, you probably got a good deal. Although most of the people Ive seen talking about them, didn't seem to have put a lot of rounds through them yet at the time to really know, or at least what I would consider enough to really know.

A couple of mine seemed to run OK at first blush, and I was thinking Id just got a couple of bad ones with the others, but they all had the same extractor issue, and as time wore on, some other issues started popping up the more I shot them. Id say if you get through a case with one without too much trouble, you're probably OK. I never made it to 4-500 rounds with any of mine before it was obvious something was up.

The way I look at things here too is, this is just typical clone 1911 crap, and Tisas isn't the only problem here either. I quit buying Springfields, and a couple of others 25 years or so ago because of similar crap. And about 5 years ago, against my better judgment, I gave a Springfield another try and instantly regretted it.

Depending on what you want and expect out of them, all you can do is spend your money, take your chances, and see how things go.



Happy yours does. Mine didn't reliably feed loaded ammo without help, and still often dont.

I buff the ramp too, it helped

 

[someguy2800]

Yep it was the main spring strut that I was thinking of. Not that big of a deal but its kind of annoying. You are supposed to be able to use the end of the strut to push out the main spring housing retaining pin, but square pegs don't fit in round holes.

 

[JN01]

I have the Tisas ASF model, it looks very close to a Remington-Rand. Mine has been perfectly reliable (though I've only run FMJ in it). Accuracy is fine, but it's a bit difficult for me to pick up the tiny period correct front sight.

 

[trackskippy]

Not GI correct, but it really helps.

A little gloss white fingernail polish under a coat of bright fingernail polish of your color choice. I use flo orange, and do it to all my sights that don't have a night sight up front.

 

[hutch51]

Have a Tisas ASF model.
Operates with no problems using the Wilson Combat 47C magazines and ball ammo. Haven't tried JHP yet. The mags it came with had feed problems so tossed them.
The trigger pull weight is a little high. I don't have a scale but a Ruger SR1911, Colt 1911, and a Rock Island 1911 have noticeably lighter pulls. The hammer/sear connection looks a little rough on the hammer side. Haven't decided if I want to smooth the hammer notch or just replace it. I did bend the leaf spring back a bit and that seemed to help, but don't want to get excessively creative in this area.

 

[bc1023]

There are some high end WWII 1911A1 clones, so I highly doubt a sub $500 model is the most accurate.

…just a wild guess

 

[twofewscrews]

There are some high end WWII 1911A1 clones, so I highly doubt a sub $500 model is the most accurate.

…just a wild guess

I'm not sure your correct.

Maybe 10 years ago there were a few others, Inland and Springfield, whom were making something very close but that's no longer the case.

Springfield's current version has no lanyard loop and their logo and name in giant print on the slide . . . Beautiful guns but the cheap Turkish clone is a more faithful reproduction.

Inland is a series 80 and that's not something I'm interested in.

Unless I'm missing it and you know of a better WWII 1911A1 clone . . .

 

[Jim Watson]

There are some high end WWII 1911A1 clones, so I highly doubt a sub $500 model is the most accurate.

…just a wild guess

Which are those?

Why should price govern?
Is it cheaper to cut a lower ejection port than GI? Etc.

 

[sqlbullet]

I bought a Tisas GI model about 2-3 years back when I put in my papers for CMP round 2 and decided I didn't want to wait till my somewhat high number was called to add a 45 ACP 1911 to my collection. I have been very satisfied with the gun. I recommend them without reservation in their price range and would not hesitate to grab another Tisas product.

But it also has not been a complete bed of roses. I have had two specific issues I would call out. Neither of these are what I would consider a fault or an example of bad QC, they were just issues that I encountered.

First, the long tang grip safety eats my hand. No, it is not hammer bite. I know what hammer bite is, and this is not that. Originally I thought it was just a thing with that style of grip safety. All my other 1911's had beavertail style grip safeties. I wore gloves when would shoot it. Then I got my CMP 1911, as did my wife, mom and oldest daughter. I could shoot all four of those 1911's without any issue. So I took a file to the tang and rounded the edges. It helped, but didn't fix the issue. I swapped the grip safety in my CMP USGI 1911 with my Tisas and shot them. The injuries followed the grip safety. I don't know what it is but it was a problem. I finally just removed the tang and blended the safety into the frame like an old school Bob Loveless. Problem solved.

Second issue is it would not feed a 200 grain SWC if it was loaded with the SWC shoulder proud of the case at all. The ammo would just not quite fully chamber, hanging up just short of fully in battery. Sometimes a bump would close the action, and sometimes not. Again, initially I thought it was a general issue, but then the CMP guns appeared and they would eat 200 grain SWC loads that the Tisas would not. The rational explanation is that the throat of the Tisas barrel is very tight. That is good for accuracy be requires special care to COAL when handloading SWC ammo. Not an issue when I know what is required. The gun has feed all factory ammo as well as JHP/FMJ reloads without issue. It's just SWC, and only if they are at all proud of the case at the shoulder.

I have not put of groups with the gun looking at the hardcore accuracy potential I will say that in every metric I can quantify the Tisas is better made than war production USGI 1911's. I would be surprised if it did not have very good accuracy off the bench.

 

[Slamfire]

I run 230 grain RN bullets through all of my Tisas 1911's and they all feed, extract, and hit where I am aiming, if I don't flinch.

GI sights are short, thin, made to shoot again paper targets with round black bulls. That's how they shot back then. Personally, I don't want my brass dented on ejection, so I prefer the lowered port. Tisas 1911 are made of a 4140 equivalent steel, the GI guns were the cheapest plain carbon steels that would run 5000 rounds. Modern alloy steels are much better in all respects to those vintage plain carbon steels. I do like the fact Tisas uses CNC machines and I can say, Colt 1911's from the 1970's rattled like castanets when new. These Tisas 1911's are tighter than vintage 1911's and made of better materials. I am happy with mine.

If you are unhappy with the fit and finish of your Tisas 1911, let me recommend a Standard Manufacturing GI model 1911.

It will be tuned in all respects, and they start at $1,329. It will be great.

 

[twofewscrews]

let me recommend a Standard Manufacturing GI model 1911.

Now that's a good looking pistol.

 

[Jim Watson]

Still not a faithful copy.