Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by Shinbone, May 6, 2021.
I have to admit that I may not have lubed the last batch of 380 brass I ran before resizing but that's been at least 10 years ago or more ... I think I got that unprepped brass from Top Brass or somewhere like that and was reloading target ammo for my wife at the time .... I'd still lightly lube that brass using those Hornady dies.
Not a big fan of those dies.
Case in point new brass manufacturers lube brass during the entire seven stage forming process - the last stage of which is almost entirely identical to our single reloading resizing stage. Meaning, we are resizing by hundredths of an inch, if not thousandths of an inch ... yet that is, apparently, enough to warrant lubing before resizing according to some.
So take the easier pressures required from your arms, shoulders and hands out of the equation. Your dies will thank you for it, your arms, shoulders and hands will thank you for it, your press will even thank you for it and especially your brass will thank you for it.
I also can see no difference in lube vs. dry with any of them, at least as far as case life goes. With any of them, it takes a little less force on the press, but it's a minor difference in what already is very low effort. I've stopped lubing handgun cartridges used with coated dies entirely, with the lone exception of the .500 S&W.
The quantities they deal with probably has something to do with that, too...
If you use lube you will need to clean the TiNi insert regularly.
I use a Hornady LNL AP as well. It will certainly work with pistol cases without case lube, but I find a spray of one-shot makes life a lot easier. Actually, the biggest difference i see between lube/no lube is that my COAL variation drops dramatically when using case lube, because the force required for sizing is much more consistent.
I am in this boat. I use a LNL AP and I like the Hornady seating dies because of the sleeve. Makes seating pistol bullets easier. On 9MM I do lube with One Shot and size in a separate process from the rest as I'm sizing down very far and it makes it much smoother.
I developed a process a long time ago that makes lubing cases automagical: I use a tumbler with corn cob and a little Ballistol for my first tumble after decapping.
When I started reloading in the early 1980’s, I did not use lube when using carbide dies. I was not tumbling at the time and removing the lube was a pain.
Eventually, I got into tumbling and now prefer to clean cases after sizing. So, I started lubing cases when using carbide dies. The sizing process, particularly with 44 and 45 caliber, cases requires so much less effort when lubed.
The lubricant gets cleaned off after sizing.
Individual choice though.
I’ve used carbide and TiNi without any problems. It’s all better than steel, I think, and steel wasn’t all that bad.
The instructions with my RCBS 30 carbine dies say to lube them, due to the case design. Dillon carbide dies for bottleneck cases also require lube.
I will give you my experience with using TiN coated punches used in stamping dies that punch holes into 1/4"-5/16" steal. Yes the coating helps but we still had to use some type of lubricant/coolant otherwise the coating would wear off right away and cause galling on the punches. As a toll and die maker, I maintained the stamping dies that punched the big holes into the rails that semi trailer axles slide on and pins lock into. They only way to get those big punches to last was to have them TiN coated and use plenty of lubricant/coolant.
With that being said, I would want to at least lube a few cases per batch to keep the dies from galling up or the cases getting stuck.
No lube needed for any straightway pistol cases when using Carbide or TN dies except for .30 Carbine, especially such minuscule cartridges as those named above.
of Hornady One Shot and my arm could always tell the difference.
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