To Bolt or Not to Bolt a safe

Discussion in 'Shooting Gear and Storage' started by Spartan Gladiator, Sep 14, 2011.

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  1. Spartan Gladiator

    Spartan Gladiator Member

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    I am getting a 1700lb safe, Should I be concerned about bolting it down? It will be in the master bedroom in a corner. 2nd question what are the thoughts about putting down a piece of plywood underneath it,since my last safe when moved had rusted the carpet a little.
     
  2. TXdefender

    TXdefender Member

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    FWIW, one of my safes is bolted, the other is not. My Liberty weighs 570lbs and is bolted to the ground. The other is not but weighs WELL over that, it sits on blocks to prevent rust.
     
  3. AKElroy

    AKElroy Member

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    Safes are 99% about providing piece of mind. My 1,000lbs+ safe is bolted to the slab. Makes me feel better.
     
  4. a1abdj

    a1abdj Member

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    All safes should be bolted, and for a variety of reasons (earthquakes for example).

    I'm assuming you're on a slab in Texas? Around here, 1,700 pounds is a bit much weight for the floor since we usually have basements.
     
  5. heeler

    heeler Member

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    Spartan,although 1700 pounds is way too much weight to move for most people without safe and vault knowledge or Millwright experience/proper moving devices I still would bolt it not so much of concerns of theft but because most safes like this are door heavy and can tip when opened.
    My Amsec BF66X36 weighs 1250 pounds empty and I still had four stainless steel half inch diameter x four inch long Redhead concrete anchors put through my slab.
    I too live in Houston but my home is older and has a non post tension slab so there were no concerns there.
    But even if your house does have the newer slab I would figure out where the tension cables run and still put a bolt or two into the slab to make sure you dont have your safe tip on you.
    What size and brand/model did you buy??
     
  6. lebowski

    lebowski Member

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    If you can get it in someone can get it out. Yes, bolt it.
     
  7. klutchless

    klutchless Member

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    Even if they can't get it out they tip it over and scratch all your guns up bolt it down.
     
  8. Spartan Gladiator

    Spartan Gladiator Member

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    thank you guys , bolt it is. Any input on what to put underneath it?
     
  9. CapnMac

    CapnMac Member

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    For underneath, in a perfect world, I'd use the Grace Peel-n-Stick Ice-&-Water flashing, stuck to the bottom of the safe. But, that could be complicated w/o a forklift.

    So, the next option would be anti-fatigue floor mat, cut to match the safe dimensions as near as possible. In a better world, I'd have the mat come out as far in front as the door opens. But, many of up live with Significant Others who would be more concerned about the 80% of the time the safe is closed, and how the mat might not match the "design" of the rest of the bedroom.

    Another, fallback item would be to get the neoprene lock-together "play" mats, as they can be trimmed neatly to suit the safe.

    Now, if there are rust stains on the carpet anyway, let me advance an idea. Get a carpet person out, and trim the carpet out from under the safe location first. This will give a number of benefits. Like being able to more-neatly drill the slab. But, mostly, if the Design Committee meets and she tells you the bedroom carpet needs replacing, you will have dodged a serious bullet for labor and expense.

    I'd not use plywood unless it were marine grade waterproof, not in as damp a climate as Houston. That carpet wicked moisture up under the previous safe , which is where the rust came from. Anything but waterproof wood can act like a sponge.
     
  10. Spartan Gladiator

    Spartan Gladiator Member

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    Sorry Heeler just saw your question. I bought a Fort Knox Defender Model 61"
     
  11. ColtPythonElite

    ColtPythonElite Member

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    Curious...That kind of construction is your home/floor where this safe is going?
     
  12. heeler

    heeler Member

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    Wow Spartan!!!!
    That is a huge gun safe.
    Back when I was looking at them the 51" was as large as they came and THAT was huge!!
    The Fort Knox Defender with upgrades was high on my list,in fact one of the last three I finally settled upon to choose from to buy.
    I priced the Defender 66x37 with the deluxe upgrade package and exterior hinges which brought the exterior steel up to 3/16ths of an inch thickness and the plate in the door from 1/4 inch to 3/8ths of an inch.
    But my Amsec BF 66x36 was at that time in late 2009 $500.00 cheaper.
    I like Fort Knox safes.
    What a job SafesRUs is going to have moving that thing in.:D
     
  13. Spartan Gladiator

    Spartan Gladiator Member

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    Its a concrete slab, hoping to get with the builder to make sure its not a post tension type since I have heard some warnings on drilling into that. I dont think it is since I dont see anything protruding around any where around my foundation. The safe is going in the master bedroom (too big for the closet), Why do you ask? (Colt).
     
  14. CapnMac

    CapnMac Member

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    I cannot answer for Colt, but to speculate that Col may have seen things like I have, where "4 inch" slabs are framed with 2x4, so that they are only 3.5" thick.

    Which does not leave a lot of room to get a 4" wedge expansion bolt in.

    Knowing the reinforcing method is handy, too. Woven wire mesh is easier on drills than #4 @ 15" O.C.E.W. (even if I have distinct preferences over which to use for Houston residential slabs).
     
  15. Spartan Gladiator

    Spartan Gladiator Member

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    Hey Heeler, I have learned my lesson on buying bigger than you need. Last safe bought was yrs ago and was over flowing 4 yrs ago. I am running out of friends who will store a weapon or two and so it was way past due. I like your thinking and yes I upgraded the door and body steel so safesrus will have a good time. I am hoping to use the same bolts you did and that my foundation wasn't skimped on and is thick enough. Something about builders I just don't trust, the home was built in 2002. I plan on putting it over the fatigue matts capnmac suggested(ty again) then drilling in place. I am hoping that will work, since marking the holes and moving that beast is not what I want to do. Did you drill it that way? any issues? This question is open for all also BTW.
     
  16. Spartan Gladiator

    Spartan Gladiator Member

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    So Capn what do you suggest? I am skeptical that the builder will know for sure but I will ask anyway. I am guessing it was rebar
    is this what you are referring to? So is there a good way of finding the bars and not drilling into them? I can guess some sort of magnetic sensor, I just dont want to reinvent the wheel if it has been done before.
     
  17. Shadow 7D

    Shadow 7D Member

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    The PROFESSIONAL says ^^^^^
    so the guys you show the safe to tells his brother who tells his tweeker drinking buddy who comes up with the idea to rip you off, and he does this alot, so he tips it over and rolls it out on PVC pipes....
     
  18. heeler

    heeler Member

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    Spartan,I had B&L Safe and Vault do my install.
    They placed the safe on a pad of very strong porcelin tile I had put in a corner just for my safe as the other parts of the floor were laminate and I did not want that much weight sitting on a so called floating floor.
    After they placed the safe the guy just climbed inside the BF after taking the bottom out of it and drilled the slab through the predrilled bolt holes with his hammer drill.
    The holes are there on most safes including your Knox.
    If your home was built in 2002 there is a very strong possibility that it is a post tension slab.
    My home was built in the late 60's so it's just a regular slab.
    They make those cocrete anchors as short as two inches in length so no worrys about the thickness of your slab.
     
  19. Spartan Gladiator

    Spartan Gladiator Member

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    Heeler you were right, the foundation is a post tension type. The builder told me I could easily go down 3.5". I was reassured by the building supervisor and he seemed very knowledgeable and helpful, that being said I must apologize and retract my cynical remark about the builder(s) not being trustworthy. Old baggage I need to let go of for sure. I do however need to dig down along the outside close to where the safe will be just to make sure it is not where all the tension cables come to be adjusted. Learning more about foundations than guns safe info. I will post a pic when its all done.

    I do wish I hadn't shown my collection to one group of individuals, but I cant take that back just hope to learn from it (another reason for the bigger and bolted route being taken)
     
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