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to re-size or NOT to re-size

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by bachekermooni, Jul 7, 2018.

  1. jmorris

    jmorris Member

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    If it’s the only .223 you own or are willing to keep the brass segregated, I would divide the cases into two groups. Neck size half and FL size the other. Now load them up with the same load and see what one shoots better. Next time just do that process.

    If you can’t tell any difference just FL size them all, that way the ammunition will also run in other .223’s.
     
    Kaldor likes this.
  2. Kaldor

    Kaldor Member

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    I FL resize every firing, no matter the rifle. Why? Consistency. Nothing is more more consistent than resizing everytime. Consistency = accuracy.

    If you want even more consistency you might want to try annealing after every firing. Annealing also has the side effect of increasing brass life due to not having necks split.
     
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  3. CptnAwesome

    CptnAwesome Member

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    I got excited when I read the title of this thread and y'all have not let me down.

    I've only been reloading about 3yrs and I've always FL sized new brass. Wasn't sure if necessary but I know if I FL size them there's no question on the specs, neck tension, etc.

    Finding good info here.
     
  4. Demi-human

    Demi-human Member

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    I don't have a fancy expander die. I run the expander/depriming stem down in the full length sizing die and use that to expand the necks. It makes seating much nicer. I used to just size them, but I don't want to work them twice. Bushing dies for me soon.

    I have found out of round necks on very expensive brass, pushing a bullet in will fix it, using an expander first makes it easier. I don't like copper shavings.:)
     
  5. armarsh

    armarsh Member

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    This right here. If it chambers in a bolt gun why on earth should you work the brass and shorten its life? If it has enough neck tension to hold a bullet you are fine.
     
  6. Nature Boy

    Nature Boy Member

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    I don’t think you your die will affect the shoulder on new brass. They come chamber-safe, dimensionally speaking, to fit a multitude of chambers.

    I run all my new Lapua brass through the sizer to get consistency in neck tension and to remove any dings in the mouth. Then I chamfer them.
     
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  7. Toprudder

    Toprudder Member

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    Exactly.


    Agree, to some extent. If you use the Redding competition shellholders, then absolutely, you can set the shoulders the same every time. The deck heights of the shellholders are in .002" increments up to .010", so the die contacts the shellholder every time without relying on the stiffness of the press. I always use the +0.006" shellholder for my .223 rounds as I know that this will leave me about 0.004" room in all the guns I have in that caliber (semi-autos).
     
  8. Hondo 60
    • Contributing Member

    Hondo 60 Member

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    Yup,that's my procedure too
     
  9. rskent

    rskent Member

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    This. ^^ If you are setup to size for your particular rifle how in the world would it be a bad idea? If it doesn’t push the shoulder back, so be it. If it does, great you are set to go in your rifle.
     
  10. Scooter22

    Scooter22 Member

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    Well you,ll end up with different case lengths. Brass flows when you shoot it. So the short ones will expand to fill the chamber. The longer ones won't. If you FL size and trim the first time all your cases will be the same and they will exspand to fill your chamber the same. Just more consistency. Then size as you want.
     
  11. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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    That doesn't make any sense.
    This is true. But I would guess that the Lapua cases in question are close enough to use as is without trimming whether one chooses to size them or not.

    That said, when I bought Lapua cases for my FN SPR in .308 I used my bushing style FL sizer on them, trimmed them, and deburred/chamfered them. ;)
     
  12. bikemutt

    bikemutt Member

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    I run new Lapua and Starline brass through a Lee collet neck sizing die, that's it. I haven't seen where either brand won't seat in my bolt-action rifles.
     
  13. Scooter22

    Scooter22 Member

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    Well I'm just a simple "re loader". Not a target or bench rest shooter. But if you have brass of different sizes some will exspand more to fill the chamber. The shorter ones will stretch out more to fill the chamber than the ones closer to the chamber right? When brass cartridges exspand to fill out the chamber they flow and lengthen. Right? Thats why we have to trim them. So a shorter case will push the shoulder forward to fit the chamber not lengthening the neck or possibly shorting it from the brass displacement. But a case that fits the chamber close won't push the shoulder forward and have the brass flow from pressure making the neck longer. Thats why they are trimmed. Bottom line my advise is to FL size and trim so all the brass is equal to start. Doesn't matter to me. I've been reloading with no problems since "74" without a dud or boom.:thumbup:
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 11, 2018
  14. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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    Your confusing diameter/length I believe, but no, they will both stretch about the same from the same pressure. The chamber limits sideways stretch and the cases will only lengthen just so much. Sure, they start off different lengths and end up different lengths, unless they came from the factory with a tiny length difference from case to case.
     
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  15. Scooter22

    Scooter22 Member

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    Well thats my whole point for FL sizing and trimming the first time. You take that variable away. They'll all start the same and stretch the same so all cases are consistent length for the first firing. Then size the brass for the best result in the gun they are used in. Like I said it's just my thing I've always done.
     
  16. jmorris

    jmorris Member

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    Sometimes they might expand to the chamber and be shorter than they were to begin with...

    Not one of mine but

    CED3F3AF-1E6B-45EE-AEA3-01CC1AEC54B2.jpeg
     
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  17. Demi-human

    Demi-human Member

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    He definitely should have sized that first. Mostly by reading the head stamp or the box it came in!:)
     
  18. fotheringill

    fotheringill Member

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    I full length resize with a .002 shoulder bump with new brass. Then, I neck size to take any inconsistencies out of the mix.

    New Lapua brass is pretty uniform but there will be some very slight differences among the cases here and there. It may be a PITA, but a small investment in time to start off with all of the cases matching to your satisfaction.
     
  19. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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    That's unnecessary IMHO, and could even be excessive, we just want to make sure we size enough we don't move the shoulder forward too much.
     
  20. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

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    9 in a .40 or .40 in a .45?
     
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  21. Varminterror

    Varminterror Member

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    Life is simpler than this. What does your rifle tell you it needs?

    If the Lapua factory fresh brass fits in the chamber, there is no reason nor advantage to FL sizing it. The purpose of FL sizing is to fit the chamber. If the brass doesn’t fit the chamber, then it needs sized.

    If it fits, it does not need sizing. If the necks are too large for your desired neck tension, then size the necks. If the neck is too tight for your desired neck tension, then expand the necks.

    Many guys will run a set of undersized factory brass through their FL die just to be safe - as a means to catch any inconsistency which might be over sized. Most won’t even get touched, in this scenario, but the ONE OVERSIZED ODDBALL will get sized. For Lapua brass, I don’t worry that much. If it fits in the chamber, then I check the neck on my expander. If my expander expands the brass, then I expand, load and shoot. If the expander does NOT expand the brass, I neck and expand, then load and shoot. 4 dies in that world - FL Body, Neck, Expand, Seat.
     
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  22. Nature Boy

    Nature Boy Member

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    My FL sizing dies don't come close to touching the shoulder on new Lapua brass. In other words, when I run new brass through the sizing process the shoulder location is unaffected when comparing new unsized to new sized. If I was affecting the shoulder when sizing a new case I would stop and figure out what the problem is because somethings not right.
     
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  23. jmorris

    jmorris Member

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    Not sure, I have come across both over the years.
     
  24. bachekermooni

    bachekermooni Member

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    I had ran every case thru my JP case gauge (I know it is a different chamber than pure .223) but it is better than L.E Wilson. Anyway, all had a perfect fit in terms of length (perfectly matching the minimum markers. So, trying to figure out what is wrong, I measured the 40+ cases left (unloaded & untouched) from the original box. I measured the necks (two spots) with my Mitutoyo digital calipers. All were either 0.2480" or 0.2485". Hmmm. That did not help. The consistency was amazing. While measuring I realized some necks were not de-burred, inside and out. Aha. So I set off and de-burred all with my Hornady tools followed by the steel wool in the 1/2" driver treatment. Will that help? I will load some up later this week and report back.
    Cheers.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2018
  25. Hondo 60
    • Contributing Member

    Hondo 60 Member

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    I always full-length resize any new brass.
     
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