Tried Flitz on Old Revolver

[CajunBass]

I've used Flitz on dozens of guns over the years, without a sign of damage. I use it to clean, not to polish. One time, using my fingertip to apply and a soft cloth, by hand to remove it. Gently. I'm not trying to sand a tabetop, I'm trying to clean old dirt, dried oil, grease, fine rust and just general "crud" off the gun (blue, nickel, stainless, it doesn't matter). After that, it's Ren Wax. I'm not looking to make it look "new" just clean.

 

[d'zaster]

I use flitz on my stainless steel revolvers.

 

[stonebuster]

Ive been looking at Graphene as a possible gun preservative/ coating lately. Its taking the automotive detail finishing world by storm as an easy and low- maintainance surface treatment.

Ever try Renaissance wax? It's a non abrasive wax not polish. It protects wood, leather, metal and used in museums. It puts a nice shine on without taking any metal off or giving the mirror shine. I use it on my blued & stainless revolvers Just a little on your fingertip to apply goes a long way.

 

[Jonesy814]

I've used Flitz on dozens of guns over the years, without a sign of damage. I use it to clean, not to polish. One time, using my fingertip to apply and a soft cloth, by hand to remove it. Gently. I'm not trying to sand a tabetop, I'm trying to clean old dirt, dried oil, grease, fine rust and just general "crud" off the gun (blue, nickel, stainless, it doesn't matter). After that, it's Ren Wax. I'm not looking to make it look "new" just clean.

That is pretty much what I did on this one. I used a cloth to apply the Flitz but more to spread it around than anything. I didn't rub hard. Same for removal. More of a deep cleaning than a polish job

 

[tark]

But a Dremel should never even be in the same room as a gun.

Dremels may or may not be useful for working on a completed gun, but they are absolutely essential in the manufacture of a gun. At least 1911s. I worked for Les Baer for 21 years and we used dremels in the shop for a number of operations. Blending the back of the slides to the frame and fitting beavertails were just two. Flaring the ejection port is another. These operations are all done with sanding drums. Cratex and MX wheels come in handy for polishing small areas, like the scallops in the frame. They are also used by the assemblers for polishing the feed ramp on the barrel. The barrel lockup man uses them on the barrel lugs ( the lower lugs, that bear against the slide stop ) when
a precise, hard fit is required. So, as one can see, dremels definitely have their uses.

 

[Jonesy814]

Dremels may or may not be useful for working on a completed gun, but they are absolutely essential in the manufacture of a gun. At least 1911s. I worked for Les Baer for 21 years and we used dremels in the shop for a number of operations. Blending the back of the slides to the frame and fitting beavertails were just two. Flaring the ejection port is another. These operations are all done with sanding drums. Cratex and MX wheels come in handy for polishing small areas, like the scallops in the frame. They are also used by the assemblers for polishing the feed ramp on the barrel. The barrel lockup man uses them on the barrel lugs ( the lower lugs, that bear against the slide stop ) when
a precise, hard fit is required. So, as one can see, dremels definitely have their uses.

Big difference between a dremel in the hands of a trained and skilled professional and a dremel in my hands. In my case, the dremel stays away from the guns

 

[RainDodger]

stonebuster... yes, I keep a container of Renaissance Wax in my safe. It gets applied to every wood stock and every rifle. Good stuff.

 

[James K2020]

In the car business we used to use toothpaste to take out minor paint scratches. A very good minor abrasive. Leaves no trace.

 

[Bo]

I polished this 19-3 with Mother's