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Trigger for 686

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by LWYM425, Feb 24, 2010.

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  1. LWYM425

    LWYM425 Member

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    I am a very happy owner of a Smith and Wesson four inch barrel 686 7 shot revolver.



    That said, I'd like to upgrade my trigger.
    The other day at the range I had a couple "misfires". The round didn't light off until (some of you may disagree to my doing this) I dropped the hammer a second time. These were either factory loaded "range rounds" or "self-defense" rounds.
    This is MY GUN. The go-to gun. The one I rely on, and since it is meaningful to me I won't sell it. So I want to restore the image I have that it is HIGHLY reliable.

    What can I do to make this gun my number one again?
     
  2. X-Rap

    X-Rap Member

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    Take off the grips and on the front of the grip frame at the bottom there is a screw. Tighten it up if it is loose, that is the first place I would look with your description.
     
  3. madcratebuilder

    madcratebuilder Member

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    Make sure the strain screw is tight. A armor or smith can give it a trigger job and I would avoid using a spring kit that reduces main spring weight. You can reduce the return spring weight, smooth up moving parts and you well have a nice smooth, reliable action. No need to touch the hammer and sear.
     
  4. Ken451

    Ken451 Member

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    Yes, I've had exactly that happen!

    Probably wise to put some locktight on it if it's a carry gun.

    Ken
     
  5. X-Rap

    X-Rap Member

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    I think it comes from people wanting to relax the DA trigger pull but it inevitably ends in what to me is a mushy trigger and FTF's.
    There is no substitute for a nice action job, I am not so afraid of changing springs so long as I test with the ammo I intend to use.
    I recently bought a 686 2.5" and when I shot it I had big time FTF so I checked the screw and sure enough.
     
  6. Thaddeus Jones

    Thaddeus Jones Member

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    If that 686 is a 686-6, or 686-7, you need to get a longer firing pin. The factory OEM firing pin is too short. Reportedly S&W did this to pass CA drop tests.

    Apex and Cylinder & Slide both make the lengthened firing pin you need (shows you how widespread this issue is). You could also call S&W customer service and they will issue you a call tag so you can ship it back on their dime to get the reliable firing pin it should have had to begin with.

    In addition, since you say this is a self defense piece, remove that stupid lock too. Wait till you get it back from S&W first, if you go that route. If you send a revolver with the lock neutered to S&W, they will replace it with a functioning lock.

    Good luck! TJ
     
  7. earplug

    earplug Member

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    HIgh Primer?

    I understand you were using range reloads. If so, you probably had two with high primers. They wern't seated completly in the primer pocket.
    The first hammer strike seated the primer, the next hit and fired them.
    It is wise to check the strain screw as others mentioned.
     
  8. rmfnla

    rmfnla Member

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    The mainspring screw should always be in all the way and snug; Loc-tite isn't a bad idea.

    If the screw is loose it can back out further under recoil. If it loosens up too much the hammer will hit the stirrup hooks on the spring and can break them off. :cuss:
     
  9. Oro

    Oro Member

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    You did not say whether the gun was new or used, which matters. Let's assume used. Here's a diagnostic path:

    1) Strain screw tightness as described.
    2) Check that strain screw has not been modified - remove and examine tip for filing marks.
    3) Check that mainspring is stock - remove grips and examine - it should be a flat piece of spring steel and not "ribbed" in any way.

    If none of those are apparent, then consider what Thaddeus Jones said and contact S&W.
     
  10. MrBorland

    MrBorland Moderator

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    One other possibility: If the grips are rubber and removed/reinstalled between the time your gun shot fine and didn't, check the tension of the horizontal screw - if it's too tight, the sides of the grips may be gripping the mainspring and impeding the hammer. A bit of a long-shot, but super easy to check.
     
  11. LWYM425

    LWYM425 Member

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    thanks everyone for your quick assistance for my issue!!

    I am the first and only owner. It does have rubber grips- which makes me hesitent to pull everything apart. I like the idea of having the factory replace the pin. I will give them a call.

    I've seen the threads about peoples' distaste for the locks. Is it just the principle of the thing? Is it concern that the lock will cause the action to jam at a crucial moment? I'd hate to just have a hole where the lock used to be...
     
  12. shockwave

    shockwave Member

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    Research more. The correct fix will remove the lock and replace it with a milled part flush to the frame and look like the correct version. Glad I got mine before the lock era. The 686+ may very well be the most perfect revolver ever designed. Sure, anyone can argue that point, but I've held and shot many different revolvers and autos, and nothing inspires confidence like a 686.
     
  13. sig228

    sig228 Member

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    BTW congratulations on your purchase. The 7 shot 4" 686 is one of the finest revolvers out there.

    The lock on this gun is a non-issue. It's there. Just ignore it.

    NOW, I'm not stealing your thread...but....since YOU didn't post a photo of your 686, I will step up to the plate and post mine :D

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Oro

    Oro Member

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    Good catch. I had it happen to me once.

    If the gun is new, that's all you want to check before calling S&W.
     
  15. LWYM425

    LWYM425 Member

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    Sig, I really like the wood on your 686. That is something I'm considering. Maybe I'll pull this apart afterall
     
  16. bluetopper

    bluetopper Member

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    I just put a .5" wide target hammer on my 686 and really like it a lot. It makes it a lot more pleasurable to shoot and looks good too.
     
  17. 340PD

    340PD Member

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    Do check what has been suggested. You will have to remove grips when you give the gun a good cleaning. Get help from fellow shooters. Forget the lock. No big deal. Enjoy your gun. You bought one of the most versatile guns ever made.
     
  18. jad0110

    jad0110 Member

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    Speaking for Sig, those look like finger groove Ahrends.

    Here's my 4" 686+ wearing a set of no finger groove Ahrends Goncalo Alves round-to-square conversion stocks that I ordered unfinished and stained myself with a "golden pecan" oil based stain. Not only do they look better than the stock rubber Hogues, but they fit my hands MUCH better ...


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  19. ghitch75

    ghitch75 Member

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    i found a set of wood targets for my 686+ 6".....this is my thrid 1 but my first +....mine has the lock.....got it used....would S&W still put in firin' pin and remove the lock?
    [​IMG]
     
  20. Oro

    Oro Member

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    No, the f.p. is an integral part of the frame design and not easy to change. They won't remove the lock, but it's easy to do if it bothers you, and there are kits you can buy to fill the hole.

    On the subject of grips, these are my favorite on the 686. Factory smooth targets. But they only made these in square versions and if you have a round butt gun you'll need something like jad0110's grips.

    [​IMG]
     
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