Trimmer help

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RussellC said:
I do that by hand, using the Lyman vla reamer, which cuts a more sloping angle, which aids bullet insertion, especially with flat end non boat tail bullets. Slow, but I can go through plenty enough for bolt duty. I found it helped a lot towards preventing buckling of the .300 BO cases with flat end type bullets.

For more general work, I find the WFT doesn't leave a big burr if you take your time, and give it a couple twists before taking it out. I do most of the cut easy, then push it home giving a couple twists.

I have not yet resized any of my "precision" brass for bolt guns...I anticipate a problem using the WFT, with unfull length sized brass the case wont fit in its collar. I figure on neck sizing only on the next go with the brass I full length sizes, which is once fired Lake City. I find the new brass I bought doesn't need full length sizing the first go...it goes in the sizer with no contact!

That's why I want a Sinclair or other precision micrometer cutter for that job.

Russellc
Click to expand...
When I reached ~5 firings, I used a body die to get down to the web and get everything uniform. That should make them fit WFT, yes? Re: VLD chamfer tool-I shoot 105 Hybrids so am considering buying the VLD chamfer too. I can't be sure but I think the Sinclair (Mfr Part: 266000) is the only one with more than 4 blades and would leave a smoother cut. Thoughts, experience?
 
quest4perfection said:
When I reached ~5 firings, I used a body die to get down to the web and get everything uniform. That should make them fit WFT, yes? Re: VLD chamfer tool-I shoot 105 Hybrids so am considering buying the VLD chamfer too. I can't be sure but I think the Sinclair (Mfr Part: 266000) is the only one with more than 4 blades and would leave a smoother cut. Thoughts, experience?
Click to expand...
I never used other than the Lyman, I am sure the Sinclair is as good or better. Mine always fit after full length sizing, didn't know how much a single firing would expand the case...

Russellc
 
RussellC said:
I never used other than the Lyman, I am sure the Sinclair is as good or better. Mine always fit after full length sizing, didn't know how much a single firing would expand the case...

Russellc
Click to expand...
Take a look at it please. Just thinking' the cutters look like they would make for smoother inside. I had to pull some bullets a while back and was a bit surprised at the scratches. Polishing with steel or brass wool isn't something I like to do...too much chance for contamination all around.

It would be interesting to find out how others do this- other than wool.
 
Is your cutter dull ??????

If your cutters are leaving a burr/flashing you need to look at the cutter. A sharp edge will feel like a burr. Brass is soft material that can be difficult to machine because it moves around. It can stick to the cutting edge dulling it, causing burrs/flashing. If you inspect the cutting edge closely you may see some brass deposited on it. Use some kind of cleaner to remove it so the sharp (or not so sharp) edge is making contact. This can be done by using a exacto knife to scrape it clean, if its a carbide cutter. If it's still not cutting clean sharpen it or replace it. Depending on how the cutter is made it can be sharpened fairly easily . Most of the 3 way cutters you can remove the cutter and run it alone a stone cutting the back side, or lightly touching the bevel. I prefer not to touch the bevel for you can get multiple edges to different heights. Then you end up with only one edge of 4 doing the cutting. Which may not give you a flat even cut.

The bottom line is if the cutter is sharp is should not leave any burrs/flashing, and you should have a square edge. This can also happen if your feeding at to slow of a rate or to heavy. This is why I run the 3way cutter in the 800-1000 rpm range since I only have one cutting edge. Running to slow the brass may have tendency to grab and spin in your hands. With a end mill 4 flute you can reduce the speed to 1/4 of the speed. If your doing this by a hand crank there is not much you can do. You want the cutter to cut smoothly, but if you feed it to fast it may spin in the holder if it grabs. If this keeps happening increase your rpm of the cutter.

To sharpen a end mill it requires a special tool grinder to index the cutter and keep every thing on axis. Some end mills are not center cut, some are and the cutting edges may or may not be square. Easy enough to check with a straight edge. If you have one of the cutter with a screw in pilot those can be sharpened.
 
Blue68f100 said:
Is your cutter dull ??????

If your cutters are leaving a burr/flashing you need to look at the cutter. A sharp edge will feel like a burr. Brass is soft material that can be difficult to machine because it moves around. It can stick to the cutting edge dulling it, causing burrs/flashing. If you inspect the cutting edge closely you may see some brass deposited on it. Use some kind of cleaner to remove it so the sharp (or not so sharp) edge is making contact. This can be done by using a exacto knife to scrape it clean, if its a carbide cutter. If it's still not cutting clean sharpen it or replace it. Depending on how the cutter is made it can be sharpened fairly easily . Most of the 3 way cutters you can remove the cutter and run it alone a stone cutting the back side, or lightly touching the bevel. I prefer not to touch the bevel for you can get multiple edges to different heights. Then you end up with only one edge of 4 doing the cutting. Which may not give you a flat even cut.

The bottom line is if the cutter is sharp is should not leave any burrs/flashing, and you should have a square edge. This can also happen if your feeding at to slow of a rate or to heavy. This is why I run the 3way cutter in the 800-1000 rpm range since I only have one cutting edge. Running to slow the brass may have tendency to grab and spin in your hands. With a end mill 4 flute you can reduce the speed to 1/4 of the speed. If your doing this by a hand crank there is not much you can do. You want the cutter to cut smoothly, but if you feed it to fast it may spin in the holder if it grabs. If this keeps happening increase your rpm of the cutter.

To sharpen a end mill it requires a special tool grinder to index the cutter and keep every thing on axis. Some end mills are not center cut, some are and the cutting edges may or may not be square. Easy enough to check with a straight edge. If you have one of the cutter with a screw in pilot those can be sharpened.
Click to expand...

Understood. Thanks. I think I will just get a new cutter. Been putting if off. Still curious if anyone has tried the Sinclair VLD inside chamfer tool
 
I have about 50k pieces of brass trimmed (223, 300 BO, 308) on the original cutter on my WTF2 with no issues. I think alot of guys are running it too slow. Im spinning mine around 2000 RPM and it gives a clean cut with no rolled edges with a pretty fast rate of feed.

Here is something I posted awhile back on here. Sorry, pics are busted, Photobucket sucks
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/wtf2-trimmer-tricks-and-tips.823476/

Edit: Fixed the pics in that other thread.
 
Last edited:
Kaldor said:
I have about 50k pieces of brass trimmed (223, 300 BO, 308) on the original cutter on my WTF2 with no issues. I think alot of guys are running it too slow. Im spinning mine around 2000 RPM and it gives a clean cut with no rolled edges with a pretty fast rate of feed.

Here is something I posted awhile back on here. Sorry, pics are busted, Photobucket sucks
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/wtf2-trimmer-tricks-and-tips.823476/
Click to expand...
RPM really matters. Once I kicked up the speed I was impressed with the difference. 50K?! Who'd a thought?
 
quest4perfection said:
RPM really matters. Once I kicked up the speed I was impressed with the difference. 50K?! Who'd a thought?
Click to expand...

I process brass a fair amount obviously. Brass is way softer than steel obviously, but if you dont have the speed vs feed rate correct, then even steel will be dulled by brass mostly because of heat buildup. Keeping the cutter clean is another priority so I keep an air hose close. I confirmed this with a friend who is a machinist by trade who said that he has used the same 1/2" HSS end mill in his Haas mill for working brass for the last couple of years. He just explained it like this when I asked if he could get me a carbide end mill, "I sharpen my HSS end mills I use in brass maybe once a year, and they see more work in 24 hours of running without any sharpening then the 1/2" endmill you are using for case trimming ever will in 1000000 cases trimmed." Just food for thought.
 
Kaldor said:
I process brass a fair amount obviously. Brass is way softer than steel obviously, but if you dont have the speed vs feed rate correct, then even steel will be dulled by brass mostly because of heat buildup. Keeping the cutter clean is another priority so I keep an air hose close. I confirmed this with a friend who is a machinist by trade who said that he has used the same 1/2" HSS end mill in his Haas mill for working brass for the last couple of years. He just explained it like this when I asked if he could get me a carbide end mill, "I sharpen my HSS end mills I use in brass maybe once a year, and they see more work in 24 hours of running without any sharpening then the 1/2" endmill you are using for case trimming ever will in 1000000 cases trimmed." Just food for thought.
Click to expand...

That's good information to have. Was trying to decide between cobalt and replacing my cutter. Not sure now if I need to do either one. thanx
 
quest4perfection said:
That's good information to have. Was trying to decide between cobalt and replacing my cutter. Not sure now if I need to do either one. thanx
Click to expand...

IMO, for as durable as an end mill is, and for all the more material (and brass to boot) you're removing, it should last quite a long time before needing replaced.
 
It's the build up of brass on the cutting edges that makes them act dull. Clean it off with a scraper of maybe a copper solvent if it's looks like brass. Feed rate and speed is a must for all material for the cutter to last.
 
Blue68f100 said:
It's the build up of brass on the cutting edges that makes them act dull. Clean it off with a scraper of maybe a copper solvent if it's looks like brass. Feed rate and speed is a must for all material for the cutter to last.
Click to expand...

Not cleaning the cutter, and all of the insides as well, was a wake up call for me. I figured cut away material would just be pushed out of the way. A little lube and it cut smooth and clean. Thanks Blue
 
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