Congratulations. You've done an experiment and learned something. You learned that you don't have the level of recoil control to land 2 hits on a target of that size at that speed. That's valuable knowledge. If you desire, this can launch you on a voyage of discovery, growth, and skill acquisition.
Obviously, the gun is bouncing around WAY too much in recoil to allow those kind of splits with any kind of accuracy. A very common problem for many shooters is that their left/support hand doesn't really contribute to recoil control, because the gun slips past/through the left hand. In recoil, the gun will move, and so will your hand if you have any kind of grip on it. You want them to be locked together, so that they stay in the same relationship. If the gun moves .01 mm in relation to the left hand, the left hand isn't really the job it needs to do. If you feel the need to "re-grip" with your left hand after shooting X shots, then your left hand wasn't doing its job.
From the video, it appears that the gun is squirming around a bit in your left hand. Fixing that would be a good place to start. Now, that's inherently challenging, since you cannot effectively apply force to the rear of the gun with the left hand... you are dependent upon friction to apply force to the sides of the gun. There are really about 3 things you can do to better weld your left hand to the gun: 1) add friction, with more checkering/stippling/grip tape and/or some kind of gripping fluid; 2) add surface area by adjusting your grip so that more of your left hand is in contact with the gun; or 3) apply more pressure. I think you should explore both 2 and 3.
The seriously competitive shooters in speed-based pistol sports almost all have crushing grip strength, and use it pretty well with their support hand. Squeezing hard with the strong/shooting hand is good, too, but it can come at the expense of trigger control and/or trigger speed, and with the backstrap and beavertail to work against, it's a little easier to keep the gun from moving around. With the left hand, absent a thumb-rest or some other specialize/odd mechanical interface, you really only have the force of your grip and friction. Squeezing your fingertips towards your palm (and vice versa) as hard as you can with your left hand is something you can do immediately. When you put the gun down, you should be able to see the imprint of the checkering or stippling of the gun's grip on the heel of your left hand. Unless you are getting muscle tremors that are making the gun shake, you really cannot squeeze too hard with the left.
Changing your grip around may take a bit more time. Lots of people have very strong views on precisely how the left hand should be positioned, but the really key thing is to have as much contact area as possible while being as high on the gun as possible. For most people, a good approach is this. Grip the gun with your right hand. Look down at the left grip panel, where your left hand will go. Notice that the exposed area of the gun in between your right hand fingertips and the heel of your right palm forms a crescent shape? A backwards C? Now look at the palm of your left hand (while keeping the gun pointed downrange!). Notice how the heel and lower edge of your palm have a raised, C-shaped area? Now, fit that crescent-shaped raised area of your palm into that crescent-shaped space of the grip! Fiddle around with this, trying for the greatest area of contact, and, all else being equal, getting as high as you can. For most people, this will involve flexing the left hand at a downward angle - this gets the part of the heel near the base of the thumb up high, and often over the index finger of the right hand. And for people who don't have Bob Vogel's orangutan hands, this usually means putting the top edge of the left index finger tight up against the trigger guard.
The good news is that this is all very learnable stuff. It doesn't take any superhuman talents to learn effective recoil control of service-caliber handguns.