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U22 Neos Trigger Job

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by sta500rdr, Apr 3, 2008.

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  1. sta500rdr

    sta500rdr Member

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    I recently purchased a Beretta U22 Neos .22 LR handgun. I was originally using an old Colt Woodsman, but decided it was too old and too beautiful of a piece to crash around the woods with. I am pleased with the Beretta, however the trigger pull is pretty stiff. There has been some discussion in the past about doing trigger jobs on them and someone had some info on it. However, I am not able to locate any instructions or info on the topic. If anyone has any info or suggestions or wants to share their experiences about this firearm please do so. Thanks!
     
  2. PointOneSeven

    PointOneSeven Member

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    I haven't seen any drop in kits online for the Neos.

    But after putting a few thousand rounds through mine, the trigger creep isn't as bad. Trigger pull is about the same, but it doesn't feel like things are moving when they shouldn't.
     
  3. sta500rdr

    sta500rdr Member

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    Thats good to know. I had an issue with it at first, and ended up sending it back. Occasionally I would fire it, and it would click, but the firing pin would not release. Almost like the trigger wasn't connected to the release mechanism on the firing pin. That was a bit frustrating. Beretta was cool about it and I got a new one. I will keep looking for a trigger upgrade.
     
  4. jhoff8487

    jhoff8487 Member

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    My Neos doesn't always fire. I can't really figure out why always. I'll run a mag through and 1 or 2 per mag sometimes don't fire the first time. The firing pin releases and strikes the rim and leaves a mark but no bang. I'll clear the round and as of late I've started chambering those that don't fire one at a time and trying again and it always works the second time around. It doesn't matter what ammo I use whether it be Bulk, CCI Mini-Mag, or Wolf. Any ideas?
     
  5. sta500rdr

    sta500rdr Member

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    I think thats part of the nature of the rimfire. Will it go? Will it not? I think its just that some of the priming material doesn't get spread to that part of the rim when it is spinned during the manufacturing. I also have a similar problem. CCI ammo is pretty good I have found for fewer misfires.
     
  6. Liberty4Ever

    Liberty4Ever Member

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    I have a new project (like I have time for that!). I like my new Beretta NEOS .22LR pistol, but it could use a trigger job. Here's a page where a guy went from a 5.5 pound trigger to a crisp 1.7 pound trigger. Sweet!

    http://hexidismal.awardspace.com

    The internet was made for stuff like this.

    I found the above link about 20 minutes ago. It was in a guy's signature line in a different thread in the General Discussion forum on The High Road!
     
  7. tomh1426

    tomh1426 Member

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    I wanted to do Hexidismals trigger job since he posted it but Ive never taken my NEOS apart that far.
    Besides the heavy trigger Its a very accurate reliable gun and I dont wanna mess it up.
    Mine can really shoot this stuff good http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/67020-7211-301.html
     
  8. Liberty4Ever

    Liberty4Ever Member

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    I went a little nuts buying .22 LR ammo. I bought about 60 varieties. The idea was to chrono ten rounds off a bench rest and record the accuracy (group size) on a target so I could do a comparison of all the different types of ammo to see which worked best in the NEOS, and presumably other pistols too. I was also going to track the cost, and generate some score for accuracy and cost combined to help people who wanted the most reliable and accurate plinking ammo without spending the money on the Eley or Lapua.

    I'd repeat the test on a different day with a good .22 rifle. I was going to use the carbine kit for the NEOS, but apparently Beretta has had that project in development for years with no release date in sight.

    Your NEOS likes American Eagle 38 gr plated ammo? That's one of the boxes of ammo piled on my desk to the left of me as I'm typing this, in the big pile of test ammo.

    By the way, I've fired about 1300 rounds through my NEOS, mostly bulk Remington, but some ancient Winchester ammo as well. I haven't had a single misfire.
     
  9. tomh1426

    tomh1426 Member

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    At 20 yards i can put 10 rounds into a group smaller than a nickle using that ammo a red dot and a sandbag.
    I went through probably 10 different ammos befor I found a cheap ammo that shoots well reliably.
    But what shoots good in my NEOS might not shoot as good in yours.
     
  10. jhoff8487

    jhoff8487 Member

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    My misfires didn't start really until I had upwards of 2500+ rounds through mine. Are the misfires just the nature of rimfire ammo or is there possibly something gone wrong with my Neos? It didn't do this near as much initially.
     
  11. sta500rdr

    sta500rdr Member

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    is it me or has .22 lr bulk ammo doubled in price lately? I have a box of 550 remington gold bullets with a price tag of 9.99 on it. I went to get another box, and its like 24$! Is this price gouging or is it really that expensive?
     
  12. the naked prophet

    the naked prophet Member

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    Ammo hasn't gone up that much here, at least not .22 ammo. A 550 round Federal pack is still just $12 here, up from 11 a year ago, and up from 10 a couple years before that.
     
  13. sta500rdr

    sta500rdr Member

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    where are you getting the federal at? I cannot seem to find it around here. Are you still in the holster biz?
     
  14. Liberty4Ever

    Liberty4Ever Member

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    My local Walmarts sell the 550 round bulk value packs of Federal .22, but they're a little more than $12 now. I think they're $13 or $14. Walmart firearms and ammo availability varies wildly depending on the local politics.

    So far, I like the Federal bulk ammo better than the Remington bulk .22 ammo. The Remington ammo has a weird roll crimp and the bullet is actually loose and can be rotated easily by hand. That's not one every so often. They're all manufactured that way. The loose bullet fit probably doesn't help the accuracy, but it also seems to hurt reliability. In some semi-auto .22s, the Remington bullet can pivot enough that it causes misfeeds and jams.
     
  15. Camjr

    Camjr Member

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    I really like the trigger on my Neos, and so far, haven't found any kind of 22lr that has problems feeding. That said, I usually finish a range trip with it after sending a lot of 40s&w and 38spl+p downrange beforehand. After the long XD trigger, and the heavy j-frame 642 S&W trigger, the Neos trigger feels extremely crisp and light. Different tools, different feels, no problem with any of them. They are what they are.
     
  16. tomh1426

    tomh1426 Member

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    I usually shoot my .22's first then move up to bigger guns and when I finish shooting them I break out the .22 again.
    OK so maybe Its a little bigger than a nickle but Its the only pic I got, it can and has done better with this ammo.
    10 rounds American Eagle 38gr plated at 20 yards
    [​IMG]
     
  17. 0508

    0508 Member

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    jhoff8487 FTF

    I know this may be an older post, but if I found it, then someone may find this info helpful.....

    jhoff8487.....from your description of the problem, it sounds like a light strike on the primer. Try taking the slide off and cleaning the firing pin channel. You may find it dirty enough after 2500 rounds of .22 smut, that the firing pin is prevented from moving forward all the way to its full striking position.

    Hope you didn't have to send it in for service
     
  18. tomh1426

    tomh1426 Member

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    I remember this thread!
    So, I never ended up doing any trigger work myself, I had Glockmonger do it! (no one else would touch it :( )
    It cost me $100 and I have no idea what he did but it breaks clean right at 2lbs, much more fun to shoot now!!
     
  19. joystick

    joystick Member

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    I purchased a new Beretta Neos last month and found that the trigger pull is as bad as has been discussed in this and other threads. It was a little stiff and heavy. The main issue I had was the long crunchy pull.

    When I looked at the rear of the gun and watched the firing pin, I could see it move slightly to the rear just before it would release.

    The "trigger job" post was interesting, but more work than I wanted to do. The gunsmith route seemed pretty expensive.

    I fired 100 rounds of target ammo through the gun and dry fired it a couple hundred times and the trigger did not get any better.

    Most of the trigger jobs I saw involved removing the sear and grinding down the firing pin shelf where the sear mates. Also, if you take off too much, it is hard to reverse.

    I had some plastic 0.030” shim stock in my shop and thought it may be possible to build up the notch in the firing pin instead of grinding it down. It seemed like an easy way to reduce the length of the trigger pull.

    It was amazing how much difference it made when I added a shim to the notch in the firing pin. Right now it is held in place with CA glue, if it does come loose, I think the spring and sear will prevent it from going anywhere. I built up the notch with this one shim, to what gave me what I think is a safe depth to engage the sear.

    Now, the trigger pull movement is almost zero, there is no visible firing pin rearward movement. It is still a little heavy, but it feels right in all other areas.

    There is a downside; the safety cannot be used. For me that is not a show-stopper because I never use it. My gun is never loaded or cocked unless I’m on the shooting range. I never consider a gun "safe."

    I did fire 100 rounds to see if the fix would hold up and not double fire or go full auto on me. It worked great.

    "Warning Will Robinson" When you mess with the trigger or sear on a gun, do so very carefully and expect that it may fire more than you expected, which is not safe. Or it may not fire at all, which is sort of safe, but a real bummer.

    If you want to try this “fix” do so at your own risk. You may want to build up the shelf in 0.010” increments of brass shim stock till you get the effect you want.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2011
  20. hexidismal

    hexidismal Member

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    Some sort of trigger stop is something I always wanted to approach and include in the guide but never got around to doing it. Nice approach joystick. I have actually done something very similar to that on a marlin 22 rifle as a stop solution after a trigger job.
     
  21. hexidismal

    hexidismal Member

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    Now that I read your post again, I'm not sure I had pictured exactly what you were describing. What I initially thought you meant was a piece of material acting as a stop and not allowing any further movement beyond the point of trigger break. I now realize that's not it, but I'm having trouble picturing your solution. What part do you mean by trigger notch ?
     
  22. joystick

    joystick Member

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    Hexidismal, good catch.

    For some reason, I said "trigger" notch when I meant "firing pin" notch. Sorry for the confusion. I edited the original post to correct the error. It makes way more sense now.

    I took a picture of it, but the added material does not show up well, it is not obvious that any change has been made. If there is still confusion, I may need to post a drawing of the firing pin with the shim stock added.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2011
  23. joystick

    joystick Member

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    Neos Firing Pin Mod

    Here is a drawing of the mod to the firing pin.

    Make sure there is plenty of room left for the sear to engage the firing pin to prevent accidental firing of the gun.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 13, 2011
  24. SMaster

    SMaster Member

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    I understand your mod and will probably try it.

    I'd like to soften the trigger and bought the spring but the screw, instead of being the infamous slotted screw is a torx T8 and the best tool I can buy will not turn that screw. I've used a 35w soldering iron to heat it to no avial.

    I'm wondering if I drill the head off will I have enough room to heat the screw, remove it, then replace it?

    Any help would be appreciated. Maybe some pictures of how long the screw sticks out of the part it screws into?

    Thanks,

    Steve
     
  25. joystick

    joystick Member

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    Steve - That torx screw is the main reason I did not want to do the "regular" trigger job. I almost broke my driver trying to get it out and decided that it was not worth the trouble. If I twisted the head off, it would be impossible for me to get out the remains. I don't have any info on how long that screw is.

    I also wanted to reduce the trigger pull. After the shim was installed, I found that the trigger pull was actually not that bad. Part of the cause for the heavy trigger pull was the force required to move the firing pin backward against its heavy spring. With the shim in place, there is no more backward movement and no more "trigger creep."

    The shim I wound up with was 0.03" which works great on my gun. I'm not sure how it would work on others due to manufacturing tolerances.
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2011
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