Uberti 1860 Wiggly Arbor

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bwt1911

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Just got an Uberti 1860 and I noticed while taking it apart that the arbor wiggles a bit. As I understand it there should be no play in the arbor at all. I tried to drive the set pin in the hammer channel further to tighten it up to no avail. Any thoughts on this? I have considered removing the arbor to peen the shoulder of the arbor at the recoil shield but I don't have a drill press to remove the set pin. I have also considered using loctite 290 to wick into the threads but I'm not sure how well that would work especially since the ballistol I sprayed the gun with is probably penetrated into the threads.

Here is a video taken from the wedge slot end where is is most obvious.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?media/20201209_104829.3495/
 
Below are some threads if you still want to see potential fixes.
It seems that a common fix is to install a threaded set screw which can work but not always.
Other recommendations included re-tapping and chasing arbor threads to eliminate 1/2 the slop, and possibly needing a new arbor.
That's not mentioning glue, epoxy, silver soldier and/or heat treating to tighten up the frame.
It seems like it can get complicated if the set screw doesn't work.
They're all mentioned in the threads.

1. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/loose-arbor-on-51-navy-advice.191846/

2. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/how-to-tighten-a-loose-arbor.528196/

3. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/dragoon-with-loose-arbor.724726/

4. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/loose-arbor.682486/
 
Or, it's a 10 -15 min. diy exercise ( if you have a vice, hand drill and some 1/8" steel round stock).

First, drill out the locking pin (you've already identified). Use a dremel or a punch for a mark. You don't need a drill press for this. Chuck the arbor up in the vice and drill the pin out. The arbor will unscrew easily (it's already loose). Upset the shoulder of the arbor in 3 to 4 areas (doesn't take much!). Screw the arbor back in. With the wedge in the slot (as a stop), mount the arbor in the vice and torque the frame into place. You can use a really large screwdriver to turn the frame for torquing it in place (place the screwdriver against the recoil shield as well). The hole you drilled to remove the pin is your alignment mark. When you're close, mount the barrel and check the wedge slot. When you get perfect alignment, install the cyl, barrel and drive the wedge in.
Cut 2" of the 1/8" stock, upset some of it slightly for a good friction fit. Cut a groove around the new pin material a little further out than the depth of the hole it's going in.

Drive the pin fully into the assembeled revolver. Break off the stock material at the groove you made and file down till smooth with the frame! That's it!!
I know it sounds like a lot but it's really not. 20 mins. max and your in business!!

I don't use any type of thread locker.
Use mild steel rod, not drill bit stock or any hardened stock.

Mike
 
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Don't do anything that might void a warranty. Send it in for service.

You are not going to know the condition of the screw threads on the arbor or the hole and whatever lies underneath until it's unscrewed and if the threads or anything else are screwed then the warranty is screwed because of the drill job.

That arbor needs to be screwed in tight first and foremost before pinning repining or anything. It's not an easy job for laymen like myself and I suspect you. It's a bad defect. If you use it you may at some point get to watch your barrel assembly fly off the gun somewhere down range when firing,

Consider the fact that you are not forced to have MidwayUSA provide this service to be the best thing to come out of all this and a great relief.

Hopefully you will only pay a little more in postage and waiting.
 
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replace it if you can, do NOT try to remove the pin.
I had an original do this once, the gunsmith put some extra strength locktite on it and let it run in. , clean with alcohol first. let it drip in.
the ppt the gun together and it will set in the correct place.
you'll never have a problem again. I shot mine for years. never came loose...Ken
 
kennysd said:
replace it if you can, do NOT try to remove the pin.
I had an original do this once, the gunsmith put some extra strength locktite on it and let it run in. , clean with alcohol first. let it drip in.
the ppt the gun together and it will set in the correct place.
you'll never have a problem again. I shot mine for years. never came loose...Ken
Click to expand...


Absolutely!!!! Don't do what someone that does this ona regular basis !! Do what Mr. Kennysd recommends and let a "gunsmith" squirt beju juice in it and it will last forever!!!! Lol!!!!!!

Mike
 
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bwt1911 said:
45 Dragoon, any advice on drill depth and bit size?
Click to expand...

Yes, I use a 1/8" bit and as far as depth, the pin will probably start spinning before you get it drilled all the way. It usually will come out as you remove the drill bit.

If you're not comfortable doing this procedure yourself, send it in but, there's a chance the replacement may have a loose arbor as well. I see quite a lot of loose arbors on brand new revolvers. Personally, I'd rather have my fix than what the factory does! PM me your number and I will call if you like.

Mike
 
A new reproduction cap gun would have to be awfully screwed up for me to send it back to them because when you get it back it will still need work. Type of work depends on brand but I pretty much just consider these guns assembled kits anyway they need to be taken back apart and put back together right and tuned before shooting anyway.
 
Cowhide Cliff said:
A new reproduction cap gun would have to be awfully screwed up for me to send it back to them because when you get it back it will still need work. Type of work depends on brand but I pretty much just consider these guns assembled kits anyway they need to be taken back apart and put back together right and tuned before shooting anyway.
Click to expand...
What is the best quality brand to start with?
 
barnetmill said:
What is the best quality brand to start with?
Click to expand...

A simple answer to a complicated question is that Piettas generally have less problems right out of the box.
In part that's due to Uberti Colts having a short arbor problem in their design.
Otherwise Ubertis are just as good if not better.
Each individual gun is unique and the competing models have their own features that lead folks to favor one over the other.
It's a classic Chevy vs. Ford debate with no clear winner, only opinions.
 
barnetmill said:
What is the best quality brand to start with?
Click to expand...

Flip a coin or just depends on which problems you prefer to fix.

As arcticap said the Piettas (at least more recent production) are generally more apt to be acceptable to shoot right out of the box.

Guarantee any Uberti Colt style cap and ball will have a short arbor. I've never owned a Uberti or a Colt second gen that I did not have to correct the arbor length. The Colts that I've owned had the most issues. I don't think they thought anyone would ever want to shoot them and were meant to be collectables.
 
I really hate it to sound like I'm bashing Uberti because they are nice guns other than the guaranteed arbor issue but dogone..... after a half of century of making them with short arbors and 100s upon 100s of gunsmiths and people complain about it and it's all over the modern day web they have to be aware of the issue so if they can't take the time to make what should be a simple correction then I don't feel bad about calling them out.

So regarding the loose arbor on the op, once it's fixed make sure the length is right but if it's a Pietta chances are it will be.
 
Cowhide Cliff said:
I really hate it to sound like I'm bashing Uberti because they are nice guns other than the guaranteed arbor issue but dogone..... after a half of century of making them with short arbors and 100s upon 100s of gunsmiths and people complain about it and it's all over the modern day web they have to be aware of the issue so if they can't take the time to make what should be a simple correction then I don't feel bad about calling them out.

So regarding the loose arbor on the op, once it's fixed make sure the length is right but if it's a Pietta chances are it will be.
Click to expand...

A year ago I bought a Uberti repro of a pocket revolver that had been factory made in .380 ACP . It's a cute revolver with a loong barrel (import laws and gun size) and when I disassembled it to clean, the arbor had a"step" or rebate in the end and a tiny spring in there that fit inside the arbor hole. It's to .... "fix" :scrutiny: the short arbor.

Trust me Uberti knows about the short arbor!
 
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