Ultrasonic cleaner question

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TomJ

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I picked up a RCBS ultrasonic cleaner not too long ago. The instructions tell you not to clean brass with spent primers in it as it may weaken the brass, and if you do so to remove the primers promptly. I had a brain cramp this evening and cleaned some 9mm brass with spent primers in them, and removed the primers a couple of hours afterwards. Is anyone aware if there's any risk in using this brass?
 
Reading up on it, I've experienced "stuck" primers due to corrosion in commercial/wet-processed/once-fired shotgun hulls, but never in modern brass.
On the other hand, others have seen the problem with old/wet range pick-up brass of particular East European ammunition manufactureres -- due to type pf priming compound.

In any case, nothing ever weakened the brass itself... it just glued the primer into the pocket to where de-priming became troublesome -- but only after a long Long LONG time sitting wet.

Worst case: Throw the wet brass into a "just warm" oven for 30 minutes -- dry it out -- and don't worry about it.


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Out of curiosity, I checked Hornady’s ultrasonic cleaner instructions for any mention of removing primers. This is all they say:

“Before you start cleaning cases, make sure all spent primers have been removed with a full-length die, neck die or the Hornady Universal De-capping Die (050085). This will greatly enhance the cleaning of primer pockets.”

So, here is an actual ammo/brass manufacturer which doesn’t have the same concern. Or doesn’t think to express it.
 
I've not heard that either but I wouldn't leave the old primers in them anyways, sort of defeats cleaning them to start with.
I've been using US cleaners for years and have not heard that but I know dis-similar metals can corrode together under the right conditions , just like a bullet can cold weld itself into a case and raise pressures dangerously.
The only primers I have had trouble getting out were from brass that laid outside in the weather for a year or so.
 
Life long machinist/mechanic here, I would be interested to know why caution is needed for sonic cleaning brass w/primers in place. Lead stephanite fear? Galvanic corrosion? I don't use a sonic cleaner for my brass but I have used an industrial size sonic cleaner with heat for several years. Didn't seem to affect non ferrous metals...
 
If I'm going to wet clean US or FART I deprime first because I want the primer pockets clean. I've used a US cleaner for cleaning up gun parts and brass. But I no longer use it for brass since I got the FART system. I think the main thing as already mentioned is primers sticking in the pocket. But that only happens if it's allowed to dry and the cleaning solutions was not fully rinsed.

Some of the solutions used in US clears are acidic. I think the warning is to keep the acid from being trapped and eating away.
 
Life long machinist/mechanic here, I would be interested to know why caution is needed for sonic cleaning brass w/primers in place. Lead stephanite fear? Galvanic corrosion? I don't use a sonic cleaner for my brass but I have used an industrial size sonic cleaner with heat for several years. Didn't seem to affect non ferrous metals...
I'm going to put on my magic hat and guess a lawyer or two was involved. Somebody did something stupid and it got blamed on primers in the priming cup instead an idiot doing something stupid so a warning statement got slapped together and put in place for future CYA.
Just guessing.
 
In my mind, I KNOW I WANT my primers removed before ultrasonic or wet tumbling (without pins) to promote improved pocket cleaning. But… for a couple years now, I have off and on NOT deprimed before cleaning, and I’m not terribly convinced it actually cleans the pockets any better or worse whether I deprime or not.

As a chemical engineer myself, I think there may be some creative chemistry going on - a hint of pseudoscience - to convince me that ultrasonic cleaning with primers in place would chemically or mechanically weaken brass. I’d certainly expect that yes, steel anvils WILL effectively be plated when they come out of the bath, but I’m not terribly convinced that mass of leached nickel from the brass would be influential, even after multiple firings, and certainly not substantially moreso than the dissolution which would have happened without the presence of that steel. I also would expect that physical galling from the micro-collisions between the primer cup and pocket would be so ridiculously inconsequential as to say it simply isn’t…

The opportunity for trapped moisture is far greater influence in this discussion than any detriment to the brass.
 
I'm going to put on my magic hat and guess a lawyer or two was involved. Somebody did something stupid and it got blamed on primers in the priming cup instead an idiot doing something stupid so a warning statement got slapped together and put in place for future CYA.
Just guessing.

I wonder if someone had a live primer that went off? We all know it's pretty hard to kill a primer. I don't know if a US has enough energy to set one off though. Maybe so ???????
 
I wonder if someone had a live primer that went off? We all know it's pretty hard to kill a primer. I don't know if a US has enough energy to set one off though. Maybe so ???????
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Maybe they got lead poisoning and blamed it on drinking vibrated lead soup.
 
The RCBS instructions clearly refer to corrosion "caused from the wet spent primer." Leaving the spent primer in results in a place that water can be retained, and it is simply the water that causes corrosion. Don't over-think it. Dry your brass after a wet process. Leaving the primers in there just makes drying that much harder.
 
Well that does it! I ain't gonna get me a sonic cleaner! I guess I'll stick to my old cheap rotary tumbler with my media mix. I guess I can use this method for another 35 years...
 
I picked up a RCBS ultrasonic cleaner not too long ago. The instructions tell you not to clean brass with spent primers in it as it may weaken the brass, and if you do so to remove the primers promptly. I had a brain cramp this evening and cleaned some 9mm brass with spent primers in them, and removed the primers a couple of hours afterwards. Is anyone aware if there's any risk in using this brass?


Won't hurt anything but you miss out cleaning the primer pockets and that along with the insides of the cases is pretty much the purpose of ultrasonic cleaning .
 
Thanks for the responses. I'll use that brass and deprime brass before using the ultrasonic cleaner going forward.
 
I wonder if someone had a live primer that went off? We all know it's pretty hard to kill a primer. I don't know if a US has enough energy to set one off though. Maybe so ???????
I put 12) 38 SPL cases in mine that was primed and ran my normal strong solution which is 3 ph for my normal 10 minutes and didn't discover it untill later. They were mixed with .357 brass. My US is a 3 sounder, so it's more powerful then what RCBS sells.

I rinced them out good and stood them up on a shelf for a couple months.
I got curious about them so I loaded and shot them. Couldn't tell any difference between them and the others.
I don't think a US or anything else could set a primer off once they absorb water. Primers are made under water so the coumpound is safer to work with, then dried out to make them viable again.
I can't imagine that citric acid would make brass by itself corode.
Brass is passified with citric acid for long term storage so it doesn't corrode.
The minerals in ground water will definately make the primer corrode fast to the case.
 
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