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Used P220, what things should I be aware of?

Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by Smokey Jones, Dec 31, 2009.

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  1. Smokey Jones

    Smokey Jones Member

    Dec 26, 2009
    I'm thinking of purchasing my first handgun. After searching on the internet and reading countless forums, I've decided I'd like a Sig P220. A local shop is selling a used one for $599, which seems like a good price.

    There's a little wear on the top - I'm not sure what you call it, but I believe it to be the chamber portion of the barrel that is exposed when the slide is in battery, the part that cams down out of the way when the slide retracts so the spent cartridge can be ejected. About 50% of the black is worn away from the top surface of that part.

    I had also tried to inspect the inside of the barrel, but not being familiar with handguns I think I need to ask to see a new P220 at the same time and inspect the barrels side-by-side.

    Is there anything else I should look for on this piece, telltale signs of worn-out or abused parts or signs of a potential malfunction waiting to happen?
  2. rellascout

    rellascout member

    Dec 22, 2004
    First look at the front of the gun under the muzzle. Does it have German proofmarks? If it does it has folded carbon steel slide. These are the best of what the P220 has to offer.

    If it does not have the proof marks then check the extractor. Internal or external. External is better IMHO. This means it is a newer gun. If it has the older internal extractor, no proof marks it is a stainless steel milled slide. This does not mean it is a bad gun but there issues with the extractor placement and tolerances with these guns. They have a greater chance of having problems with FTE & FTF. This does not mean you should pass but be aware of what you are looking at.

    The top of the barrel will wear. Nothing wrong with it.


    Look at this barrel. It shows what is known as the Sig smiley on the barrel. This is normal but it will get to a point and stop. Guns which show very little smile have not been shot much.


    The last thing to look at closely are the rails on the frame of the gun. You want to see black/nitron or blue there. If you see a lot of silver the this is not good. If it looks like this pass. This will shorten the life of the gun.

  3. chemclay

    chemclay Member

    Nov 16, 2008
    i have a German bitone with internal extractor, sn G 267xxx. it works fine except with swc reloads. where does this gun rate in the good, bad, and ugly.

    thank you
  4. David E

    David E Member

    Aug 3, 2008
    If it's REAL old, if you lower the hammer manually (not using the decocking lever designed for that task) it may not put the hammer on the safety notch.

    It's easy to check: Cock it. Uncock it, lowering the hammer gently with the thumb until it stops. Let the trigger out fully. Release hammer. NOW gently push forward on hammer and see if it goes forward into the frame. It should not move. If it DOES, it needs to be sent back to Sig for upgrading.
  5. Sapper771

    Sapper771 Member

    Feb 24, 2007
    11 up and 3 down
    Rellascout nailed it on the head.
    If it is a west german sig , they are the best IMO. Under the muzzle where the Proof marks are at will also show a two letter "date code" that will tell you when the pistol was manufactured. There is a decent article on inspecting sigs on the Grays Guns website.
  6. rodinal220

    rodinal220 Member

    Jul 9, 2005
    You have a nice one.The newer SIGs are using MIM components and are under the management team that ruined the quality at Kimber before going over to SIG.I would replace the recoil spring and firing pin spring as cheap insurance.I like the older SIGs without the rail.



  7. chris in va

    chris in va Member

    Mar 4, 2005
    Louisville KY
    Mine was made in 1995 and has no proof marks, and is also a 'folded' slide model. Non-stainless.

    I bought it used about 6 years ago for $450. Absolutely zero malfunctions regarding ammo and feeding.

    The *only* thing it did was snap a trigger return spring. They're notorious for breaking, so if you do get an older one it would be in your best interest to change it out as a precaution. Very cheap part, something like $1. You may even find someone to just donate a spare if you ask.

    Oh one more thing. I have #8 sights front and rear. The bullet will impact ON the front dot, not above the sight like on most other guns. Just something to keep in mind.
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