Uses for Bad Primed Brass?

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Crowcifier666

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Hey, I'm new to reloading and just loaded up my first batch of 9mm. I've bought in super cheap, using the Lee Classic loader....yes, the hammer one. Wanted to try it out before I bought-in heavy. That said, I will be investing a little better in the future.

So when seating the bullets, I mashed a few primed casings, rendering them un-loadable. Is there some way to de prime these to save the primers? Or am I just being a cheap SOB? Keeping mashed bullets too, they're jacketed. Can jacketed bullets be melted down for future use, or am I just being a cheap SOB? :evil:

Sorry guys, if you can't tell, money is tight after a long winter...just trying to produce as little waste as possible.
 
If you had a reloading press, primers can be slowly pressed back out and reused.
I would not try it with a Lee Loader & a hammer though.

Yes, jacketed bullets can be melted down to reuse the lead in bullet casting.

rc
 
Reloading is essentially fully recycled.

- Damaged/split brass cases can be recycled for bulk brass by the pound
- Even spent primers can be recycled as bulk brass
- I don't collect used bullets but many do to melt to cast more bullets. You can even use plastic can full of recycled tire rubber mulch to capture bullets - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7WWQqmDOac
 
RC, I had a feeling that was the answer, I wasn't about to start hammerin on them :D What happens to the copper jackets? Burned off? Mixed into the lead is my presumption....


BDS, I knew all those spent primers were worth with something ;)

Thanks for the help gents
 
Nothing wrong with being cheap or frugal. You might try case lead which will reduce your costs further.
 
So it separates, huh? Then what, scoop it off and cast something in copper?

Pardon my ignorance, but what is case lead?
 
What happens to the copper jackets? Burned off? Mixed into the lead is my presumption....

If you cut the copper jacket open the lead will flow out when it's melted. The copper has a higher melting point and can be strained out when the lead melts.

Here's a good video of the process: Processing 25 lbs of range lead The video didn't play for me just now, I am hoping it will for you.
 
Ok, let's not fill his head with confusing hobbies.

Lead bullet casting is a whole other animal, not recommended you start at this stage. Forget melting anything down at this point.

If you want to save a lot of money but still have a very capable setup, consider a $50 Lee Hand Press Kit. It comes with the excellent Ram Prime.
 
I`m certainly not cheap & may be frugal , BUT I`m dang shur a scrounger !!!!!!!

Ya wanna load ammo huh ???? Ya like shooting huh???

Go ahead get a press (A good one) You`ll be $$ ahead in the long run, trust me!
Second a set of good balance beam scales, Lyman manual.
These 3 items you`ll always use , ya can use different dies & priming tools but these 3 never get old!!

Ya can add as ya needs arise
 
Thanks guys. I'm not looking to start casting yet, but I am saving the bad bullets for future use. Looking to make a forge in the future, to step up my knife making; so I'll probably wait till then to start casting.

I now realize I'm going to have to get a press. I like shooting a lot of pistol, so it just makes sense to go progressive. I just wanted to feel it, out for cheap.

Got my eyes on a Dillon 550, but gotta wait until the money shows up...
 
From Whack-a-Mole to a Dillon... whew !

I strongly recommend a quality* single stage (which you will keep/use forever no
matter what) to get your feet thoroughly on the ground/comfortable with every
aspect of what you are going to encounter.



*(The best of which is 1/3 the price of a D550)
 
Ha! I've been doing a lot of reading, and the consensus is buy once, cry once. So when I do go progressive, yes, it will probably be a Dillon. Hopefully I can get a deal on a used one, but you don't see them that often either. That says something right there...

I will been the look out for a single stage press; it's just that I got the bug, and I want everything NOW! But a SS is more realistic, as I do not have much room for a dedicated press at the moment.

Thanks for the input, fellers.
 
I'd strongly echo other folks recommendation that you start on a single stage. I'm all for the buy once cry once but I'm VERY glad I learned on a single stage and then moved onto my Hornady ammo plant. I still use the single stage as well
 
I now realize I'm going to have to get a press. I like shooting a lot of pistol, so it just makes sense to go progressive. I just wanted to feel it, out for cheap.

Again, no. Progressive not recommended at this stage.

Single press, learn to use it for a couple years. There are an incredible amount of issues that can happen using a progressive, many of which can blow your gun and hand apart.

You'd be amazed how much ammo you can make with a single stage press. I've made literally many thousands with the Hand Press and see no need to get anything else, not even a turret. I like to see every operation that happens and triple check it along the way.
 
Again, no. Progressive not recommended at this stage.

Single press, learn to use it for a couple years. There are an incredible amount of issues that can happen using a progressive, many of which can blow your gun and hand apart.

You'd be amazed how much ammo you can make with a single stage press. I've made literally many thousands with the Hand Press and see no need to get anything else, not even a turret. I like to see every operation that happens and triple check it along the way.
Ditto. If I'm focused like I should be, I can knock out 100 rounds of rifle in an hour, 200 rounds pistol. That's start to finish assuming I start with cleaned brass that runs in the tumbler while I'm at work. My best day so far I knocked out 1500 357 mags, 300 38spl, 280 .270win, 160 44 mag, 200 7-30 waters, and primed a whole bunch more brass. I used up all my components to a point where I could do nothing else. That was a day when I was home from work getting over the flu. Worked out to be about 15 hours including all my changeovers. All on a rcbs jr2. With results like that who needs anything more...plus I am of the school of thought that I run a tray or two in a single operation then inspect and move to the next operation. I can't force myself to trust, let alone like a progressive, and can't see any real gain from a turret.
 
Going back to the copper jackets in the lead for a moment. Crow, the copper in the lead pot does not melt. The pieces simply stay solid and float to the top of the melted lead since the copper is less dense than the lead. Same with any steel bits in the lead that you get when melting down LEAD wheel weights.

And a knife forge would be a bad way to melt lead for casting bullets. You want to have more control over the temperature than you can get from a forge. If the time comes to try it I strongly recommend a thermostat controlled electric melting pot. It just makes it SO much easier and consistent.

Now back to the press idea. You can still load a lot of pistol ammo on a basic single stage press before you go to a full on progressive. And a single stage is very handy to have for either rifle loading or for the odd little job you want to do when the progressive is set up for other loading. So if you buy a cheap single stage it won't go unused after you get a progressive.

Since you're on a tight budget I'll say go with a Lee "closed loop" style press. I'm not a big fan of them ever since the one I was given turned out to not have the ram in line with the die position. But if you can test for that and it turns out to line up fine then it'll do the job.

Or there's a 4 position turret press.

Ebay has lots of the single stage and turret press kits up for sale at very nice prices.

Of course you'll need dies for each caliber. So plan on around $200 or so for a kit and dies.

If you load for rifle as well as handgun by all means go for the single stage kit over the turret style. It's a better setup for rifle loading with more of the tooling you need.
 
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