Using a walk-in closet as a safe.

Status
Not open for further replies.
I toyed around with the same idea, but after looking into the cost of building vs. buying a safe or two, I decided against it. Another factor is that in some states, such as Kalifornistan, you must purchase an approved gun lock for every firearm you buy. Most of the locks provided by the gun's manufacturer aren't "approved" by the DOJ in Kalifornistan, so you either have to buy an approved lock or show proof that you have an approved safe. Homemade safes aren't on the State's approved list, and the red tape and idea of having the DOJ actually come to my home and approve it are not situations that I want to entertain. Just something to consider if you live in a very restrictive state. BTW, anybody want to buy a big box of gun locks? Cheap?

Peace and God bless, Wolfsong.
 
I have a walk-in closet in my MB that has a solid core hardwood door with a keyed deadbolt. Inside is an inexpensive steel gun cabinet with a padlock. Inside that I "store" three practically worthless guns. All the "valuable" firearms are elsewhere in a carefully concealed area, known only to me and my wife. I don't know if thieves would stop with the obvious, but it seems like a good idea to me. Hope it never gets tested though.:)
 
When you buy your firearm in PRK, they ask if you have a safe. Just tell them you do. When they ask for name and model number call it a "THR 4/29/7". I have an old model safe and the name given to it when new isn't even in their literature anymore. The gun salesman doesn't care, as long as you tell them you have a safe and sign the paper. You KNOW you have a safe. Nobody will know any different.

Justin
 
My basement floor is the same thickness and on the same type of base as my garage and my driveway.....

A concrete block wall puts much less load per square foot than any of my vehicles. The only time you'd need added footers is if you were trying to support a load from the dwelling above.
 
For those concerned with fire resistance, you can use steel framing instead of wood framing, combined with the previously mentioned fire resistant paperless drywall.

I've read that steel studs are supposed to hold up better than wood studs of the same size in earthquakes, hurricanes, and tornadoes too.
 
When you buy your firearm in PRK, they ask if you have a safe. Just tell them you do. When they ask for name and model number call it a "THR 4/29/7". I have an old model safe and the name given to it when new isn't even in their literature anymore. The gun salesman doesn't care, as long as you tell them you have a safe and sign the paper. You KNOW you have a safe. Nobody will know any different.

Justin


That might be a risk that some are willing to take with their guns, but giving false information when purchasing a gun and risking losing my guns because of that is not a risk that I'm willing to take. Once a gun is confiscated for any reason in Kaliforistan, it is a lengthy, expensive battle to get it back, a battle that requires an attorney on your side most of the time. Buy a cheap, approved small safe, and then build the one you want. Now you can truthfully say that you have a safe and your covered. But circumventing the law leaves you open to all kinds of legal hassles. Get a cheap WalMart or Home Depot Sentry safe for a few hundred bucks and store your ammo in it. Better safe than sorry, IMHO.:D

Peace and God bless, Wolfsong.
 
What your talking about is the EXACT route I went. I used my the closet of my master bedroom.

My security is two fold.

1st - I removed the door frame and hinged a full length mirror over the door way. When you walk into the room you cannot see any door there. If you "open" the mirror you can see a door. Then you must have the key or remove/break door. Im planning on replacing the door in the near future with a more heavy duty one.

2nd - I added an alarm system. I put a simple alarm system in my house recently. I added a door switch and gave the gun room its own zone. This allows me to leave it armed all the time, regardless if the rest of the house is secure or not. My reason for this was my wife often leaves to run up town and she sometimes gets lazy and does NOT set the alarm when she leaves.....but my gun room is always armed.

I have NO fire protection.....but other then that I feel fairly secure with my method.

This is an old picture, Ive added about 6 or more long guns since then....

rifles2.gif

rifles1.gif
 
Actually

...

Some closets with a man door can be converted to protect your guns, very well. As they have been on the market for sometime now, at the Home Depo's, and Lowe's, for example, all metal man doors, with locking door knobs and they can be cut to also utilize a dead-bolt. And either using reverse, inside hinges or, outside hinges with locking screw pins, for the hinge rods, that make it "very difficult" for someone to just pop the hinge rods out, as they can only access those locking pins, from within the closet. Unless of course, it's an inside job, that the thieves know what's in there, has locking hinges, and bring the right tools that they can bang those rods out, noisy, but out. That's why if possible at all, go with i/interior/inside, non-exposed, hinges. Takes care of that scenario.

Now, other than a bolted down, 600lb and up, safe, if they really want what they "know" is in that closet, and have the "time" to buzz saw a hole in a wall, etc., and no house alarm, no dog, etc., sure it's contents are going bye-bye, but it does deter an in and out 5 min hit-burglar, as it will take much longer to achieve a noisy procedure to bypass a metal door.

The doors come in various common man-sized door sizes and come with finished paint applied, in common used colors as well.

My strong suggestion is simple, it's all in the keys, who has a set, and knowing where they are, or if missing, strangely, then suddenly returning, could mean they have been cut-copied, and scrutiny is advised, to change the locks quickly.


Nothing is perfect, heavy gun safe is best, both in being fairly fire proof, water proof, and crane or truck needed to lift it and transport it away.

Locked closet, with light-weight steel, or heavy aluminum door is better than wood IMO, and buys time and, is a good enough deterrence for a hit and grab burglary (of opportunity) IMO.

Locked closet with exposed hinges, not with safety lock pins, is easy to pop open, take items, and makes no sound.


Big dog/s a/o a monitored alarm system, along with informed adult neighbors, that if they hear an alarm, to look, take descriptions, car, licence, etc., down and to call you local PD and report Robbery in Progress, House has Guns, will get the PD's attention and reaction sooner than your monitoring stations, avg 3-6 mins to call, and when no answer after 8 rings, or get a busy single, then they call the PD..


LS
 
This is a great idea. I just closed on my house and I might have to consider talking the girl into letting me do this.
 
You could plaster (with chickenwire) the walls and cieling.

My house was built in 1960 and the interior walls and the cieling are plaster (hard & grey like cement) over chickenwire over 18" wide tongue & grooved drywall run horizontal.

You can break through it but it will take HOURS and it eats up sawzall blades by the dozens. I know I took down an interior wall to enlarge a bedroom - it was a 3 day job and the cieling forgetaboutit! I left it popcorn looking and all.

I bet if you do both sides of the wall and have lots of nails pounded into the 2x4s it would slow down any thieves.

Also, use thicker wire. Next to this would be poured concrete but that would get very expensive plus you really need to know how to build the wall to hold the wet cement weight.
 
I have an obsolete darkroom that I want to put my gunsafe in (I have to remove the sink first) and disquise the door. My plan is to build a false wall over the wall that has the darkroom door on it. If I use paneling the molding that goes over the seams will disguise the door edges and I will put coat hangers on it so it just looks like a wall with coats on it.

I have a few problems though, there is an attic fan (the type that cools the whole house) on the ceiling and a door on the wall perpendicular to the darkroom door. This gives me only a few inches to build the false wall. I know it could be done but my carpentry fu is weak.

Maybe there is a way to disquise your door in addition to reenforcing it. Also an inexpensive safe would be yet another layer to breech. Here is a link that has folding or rollup walls, plus swinging bookcases to hide doors. It would not do in my case but maybe someone else here could use them, they seem like an awesome idea!

http://www.woodfold.com/rollup/caseStudies.php#caseFour
 
OMG!!! I had not read the entire thread when I posted my reply, a mirror over the door would be perfect!!! It would diguise the door and I could enhance the illusion further by hanging stuff on the wall!!!!


THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!! People don't even know there is a room there anyway, a mirror door would be great!!!!!
 
Fire protection

A few cheap possibilities for fire protection. Some modular home companies line the inside of the "chimny box" with cement board for some fire protection. Of course there is a steel liner, usually a round double walled 6pipe, that acually is the chimny inside the "box". The point is the cement board, commonly know as Dura-rock, adds some burn through protection. It is also much harder to cut through than plywood and much cheaper (3'x5'
1/2" sheet for about $5, it is basically fiberglass reinforced cement). You could line the interior of the closet with duro-rock and cement seal/glass tape the seams just like installing it for a tile floor underlayment. As for the door, a big box store, fire rated steel covered, foam core door ($150-$200) meant for use between the house and an attached garage has a certain burn through rating, maybe 1-2 hours? With good hinges, and 3 dead bolts this would keep the average crook out and provide enough fire protection untill the fire department gets it put out.
 
Remember, once they are inside your house, they have access to all the tools YOU own. They don't have to carry their own. I'm sure most people have torches, saws, sledges, etc., in their garage.
 
One thing you might consider is turning your closet into a safe/tornado shelter by bolting steel to the studs is this:

Unless you somehow reinforce the studs and anchor the room a few feet in the ground, you aren't going to be adding a whole lot of protection in case of a tornado.
 
Don't know if anyone has mentioned this but... If you plan on putting/building a safe upstairs, always keep the firemen trying to save your home when it's burning in mind. They don't want to be under it when the floor burns through. This is mentioned in the owners manual of a small fire safe I own. I positioned it over what is a rear corner in the next room down, less likely to be a fireman under it and then I'll warn them provided I haven't burnt up in the fire myself:eek:
 
I see a lot of houses right after the fire. Just had one today in fact. Things to consider. Stay away from all duct work, this includes cold air returns. Todays job, had the floor burned out completely right over the main cold air returns. Stay away from anything electrical. Make sure you consider any wire above, below, or in the adjacent walls to be a threat. This may be very hard to do with existing construction. Any power in the vault needs to be piped in. Then keep it as low as possible. Height is THE MAIN ENEMY in every fire job I've been on. Now here is the catch 22. Water. Todays job also had a flooded basement. This is very common. The fire dept pulls your meter, therby stopping your sump pump, and then they pump enough water in to fill a lake. Some jobs I've been on have had water 6'+ deep. Most are less than a foot. So some type of waterproofing needs to be considered too. Now you have to factor in all the structural needs, and whatnot, and a safe doesn't look like such a bad idea.
 
Before I bought a 2nd safe there was a time when some had to be left out. I kept the ones that would be hard to replace in the safe and just added a deadbolt to my walk in closet. I knew it would only slow down a real thief briefly but my main concern was to keep them away from any friends of my kids who may be visiting.
 
For forced entry hardening a light version is to put Kevlar matte (like fiberglass cloth) between the drywall and whatever you are using to harden the room with. Use a light spray adhesive to attach it to the wall before hanging any other material for hardening. This works kind of like trying to drill through thick carpet in that it binds up on whatever tools are being used to cut into it. does not help with fire prevention but is just a pain to get through when is is sandwiched between other materials. This is one of the ideas I have been toying wiht for some time.
 
A home safe will only slow someone down. Anybody with a masonry blade, circular saw and time can break into it.

But I can't imagine reinforcing a closet to slow them down as much as a safe.

If you're worried, then buy the safe.
 
I like the closet idea, and it should work fine.

However, you need to think outside the box if you've got the ability to start from the ground up. I'll just say that in the plans for my next and final house, the basement footprint may not match the first floor footprint.
 
My house had interior walls that were plaster (think hard as concrete cement) over chicken wire on top of what looked like drywall except it was tongue & groved, 18 inches wide and run hosizontally. I'd never seen anything like it before - it was built in 1960.

When my B-I-L and I decided to widen a bedroom and make the wife a walk-in closet tearing that wall down took a couple days - the plaster was hard as concrete and the chicken wire (thick wire) kept screwing up the sawzall.

Build that with some thick plywood inside and horizontal 2x4 braces bwtween the studs and you will slow them down.
 
I thinking I am going to add to my house plan when we move in a few years. I am going to add a room in the basement of 12" thick reinforced concrete(All 6 sides) Pay the extra upfront spread it out over 30 years. That way I can get the footers and all done from the get go. Then I will add a Graffunder vault door to it. Get threw that with a sawsall.

I am set to inherit close to 35 guns (If not more) some of which are old, in musem quality condition and almost priceless. These will not go in the Gander Mtn Special Safe I have now.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top