Using a walk-in closet as a safe.

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Another $0.02 -

There are hinges with mating bumps and holes (for lack of a precise term) that prevent the hinge plates from separating even if the hinge pin is driven out. These require the door to be opened, then the hinge pins act normally.

Combined with multiple deadbolts on the knob side, they make for a very difficult to force door...
 
For forced entry hardening a light version is to put Kevlar matte (like fiberglass cloth) between the drywall and whatever you are using to harden the room with. Use a light spray adhesive to attach it to the wall before hanging any other material for hardening. This works kind of like trying to drill through thick carpet in that it binds up on whatever tools are being used to cut into it. does not help with fire prevention but is just a pain to get through when is is sandwiched between other materials. This is one of the ideas I have been toying wiht for some time.

Guys, like I said LAST YEAR, the cheap way is to use a couple of layers of the small chicken wire, and a liberal application of Liquid Nails between layers of drywall. Do 3 layers if you feel really paranoid. It'll take as long, if not longer, to peel as a "regular" home safe.

Frame it heavy. Fill or grind the screws on the outside. Vermiculite concrete poured is a good thing, and I may still do that.
 
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