Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by barnfrog, Aug 6, 2022.
I’ve know some framer that could probably reload with a measuring tape
learn something new! I’m going to try that with my feeler gague. get the feel right
I do finish carpentry and can indeed reload by eye for 99% of normal need.
I knew it! good finish guy can cut angle and measure with a pencil
My micrometer is easier to guess at, then the RCBS dial.
The left RCBS dial fell off the bench, on to cement. Broken after 40 years.
My 357 mag bullets always measured .3575" out of a .357" H&I die. Till 1 day they didnt. Alloy spring back related.
They are in .0001" resolution but I never really took the ten thousands seriously. I don't machine any more so I don't really need that type of accuracy and they haven't been calibrated since I left my last job.
Very true, we rarely need true .0001 accuracy for reloading.
Also true, when loading for my (tight necked) .262 neck 6 PPC chamber I measured neck walls and loaded round thickness at the neck to the nearest .0001 my talent allowed, then used the old fashioned...... chamber it to see if it chambered freely, then fire a couple and see if bullets would pass into the fired neck freely..... method to verify I was safe.
Dude, you need to stop being so wishy-washy. Take a stand on the issue and tell everyone who disagrees with you they're utter morons. I mean, "Unless of course you are into that, thats fine too?" Really? Have you no spine? Next time try "Unless of course you are into that, in which case your mental capacity must be the equivalent of a small cactus." How am I supposed to make a decision if you tell me I can do whatever I want?
Just kidding, of course. The point about relative vs. absolute measurement is well taken. It also reminds me that I may need to re-measure a lot of things with the new calipers, or at least compare the readings I get with them to the readings I got with the digital set to see if any adjustments are needed.
Or use a standard like a precision pin or Guage block.
If each round fits between the maximum and minimum set of gauges, it's SAT and I'm done.
I guess my point is that if I have a load worked up that specifies a CBTO length of 1.234" as measured with the digital set, I need to make sure the dial calipers give me the same length on an assembled round that the digital calipers say is 1.234".
The suggestion from @AJC1 will tell you if the digital and the dial are on the same page.......
Get yourself a Standard Calibration Block to check the calipers with. Then you will know for sure that the reading you get is accurate.
Some guys just like to do things there own way. If you want to blue print each cartridge, go for it.
very rarely in reloading. I use my "a little more than" or "a little less than" determinations when measuring with dial calipers "a little more than .355" or a little less than .430", etc., (I don't bother with digital) and my mics have .0001" hashmarks on the thimble but I can't remember any need for using except when checking mics...
I am of the +/- group.
The final point being a non issue IN MOST CASES.
Telling a machinist you want a smooth, round, 12" disc. He will ask, how smooth, how round, how close to 12?
Fit, Finish and Concentricity.
For most of handloading, there's not much to be gained with obsessing over a single measure. The combined slop of every other variable will quickly overwhelm any gain imagined from doing so. IMO, YMMV.
In reloading I agree. In barrel chambering I disagree. But that's off topic. Knowing where it's important and where it's not is just as important. I played measuring my dad's reloads for my 223 comp gun and .007 of difference in headspace is a lot. He never has an rcbs mic or a comparator but that amount of variation has to matter.
Is that one hundredth of an inch or 10 millimeters.?
Separate names with a comma.