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Using Lead, how do I know if I have Leading?

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by Lovesbeer99, Sep 16, 2007.

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  1. Lovesbeer99

    Lovesbeer99 Member

    Sep 27, 2006
    I'm using cast bullets in my 38spl and as soon as I recieve my new order I plan to load cast bullets for my 30-30 Win 94. So how do I know if I get leading?

    Thanks in advance.
  2. 243winxb

    243winxb Member

    Jul 7, 2004
    Hopewell Big Woods
    If you have leading, accuracy will not be good. A 30-30 win. is a great caliber to use casted bullets in. The velocity and accurace will be very close to jacketed bullets. Use a Lyman "M" die to open and bell the case mouth before you seat the bullets. Gas checks work best. Sizing .311" is what i use.
  3. jfh

    jfh Member

    Aug 28, 2003
    Maple Plain, MN
    at the risk of sounding facetious, look in the barrel.

    Closely look in the barrel, particularly in the leade. It's obvious enough. There are various causes of it, and even various types, but the above info will get you started.

    243winxb's answer is better--but for 38 Special, it will be easy to see.

    Jim H.
  4. trueblue1776

    trueblue1776 Member

    Nov 16, 2005
    .38spl will not take leading much, especially if it is a shorter barrel. Just clean normally after use, make sure to inspect the rifling near the end of the barrel for lead accumulating in the grooves.

    .30-30 won't be bad either, unless you shoot 500 rounds in a sitting.

    How hard are your bullets?
  5. Bad Flynch

    Bad Flynch Member

    Aug 3, 2004
    Indian Territory
    Leading in your revolver will usually be in one of three places, but in severe cases all three. You determine the leading places and the amount by inspecting your bore and this is most easily done with a bore light or flashlight after cleaning mildly to remove the powder fouling. After the top layer of powder fouling is removed, the lead will be apparent as a gray material that is irregular and not at all like the barrel steel in color, shape, or surface texture.

    Use a decent powder solvent and sop the barrel and cylinder well. Then let the solvent sit for a few minutes and run a brush through, then wipe. No need to get too agressive at this point, all you want to remove is the powder fouling. I use the Birchwood-Casey Sheath/Barricade paper wipes at this stage, as Sheath is an excellent powder fouling remover and the mildly abrasive character of the paper removes the powder fouling down to the lead. I simply bunch it up and push it through the chambers and the barrel a couple of times each.

    You should look in your chambers just in front of where the cartridges lie and in the cylinder throat portion. From there, you should look at the barrel forcing cone and where the barrel goes through the frame. Chances are, that will do it.

    However, once in a while there will be lead further on down the bore, especially if it started at one of the closer places. Learn to look and see what you need to see.

    Rifles are similar, with leading starting at the throat (right in front of the chamber) and progressing down the bore. These critters take a little bit better eye to see what you need to see. Once in a while, leading will start near the muzzle if the bullet runs out of lube, but that is the exception rather than the rule.
  6. peterotte

    peterotte Member

    May 8, 2007
    Glad to hear you plan on using cast in your 30-30. I have used cast in my hornet which has a rust damaged barrel but see no evidence of leading and I get good accuracy. With cast, I seem to get better power out of the rifle. I use the same powder charge as for 45gr jacketed with 56gr cast. BUT, I am using a paper cup/sabot for seating the bullet! (I do not resize the cases at all). I am assuming it's the paper sabot that prevents the leading. (The paper I use is soft paper hand towel).


    PS - Nothing wrong with Beer!:evil:
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