Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by savagelover, Jul 29, 2022.
You can see the punch marks in the bottom of the case. If they're off center, the brass will measure differently side to side.
Companies that use different manufacturing methods, I don't find these issues.
That's true with all calibers and ammo manufacturers.
Your discovered why we sort brass by mfg. Best if all from the same lot. It does make a difference, pistol and rifle.
The more consistent every part of a reload is , the more consistent the groups will be .
It starts with the brass , then you want consistant primers , powder charge , bullets , trimmed shell length , OAL and COAL . When seating primers you want consistant primer seating ....
The more consistant everything is the better your groups will be .
Handgun shooting tin cans at 15 feet ... it doesn't really matter about mixed brass and maybe inconsistant plated bullets . But the more the distance is , the better the sights and with a rifle ... you will see a difference.
That's the problem with sorting brass, it removes an excuse for when you jerk the trigger.
I've always sorted my .38Spl cases by headstamp...I only trim the ones I load polymer coated bullets in. I don't sort by factory/machine (font), but I do separate out cases marked "W-W" and "Winchester" or "Western". I also load nickled cases separately.
When developing a new load, I want to remove as many variables as possible
I've been running ww and Win together, I haven't tested for differences.
Shooting a pistol offhand... mixed brass works just fine.
Have shot a ton of offhand pistol, and shoot a huge variety of range brass. With 8 rounds, probably 3 different brands. lol Casual shooting or banging steel... No problem. Shooting over a chrono, extremely tight velocity spreads. You'd never know it was mixed brass. (mild to moderate 9mm... 147 grain FMJ at 980 fps)
When I see things like that, I get someone else to shoot, just to see if it’s me or not.
Can you explain a bit further how neck tension would affect POI with .357 at 40 yards? Especially since the OP mentions they all have the same MV?
I've always suspected this. Heavier brass on one side of the case will crimp different than the brass on the other side of the case.
I agree, I sort all my brass and have for decades.
So do I, I like my ammo as good as it can be. Then I can work on "me".
Use your tested load data. You now have match grade ammo. How i do 45acp ammo.
*If you cant hold a group or gun is not match grade, forget all of above. *
I personally have not seen that much difference between mixed and matching brass. Not meaning to doubt your findings, and apologies if it comes across that way!
My hunting, defense and match ammo is all loaded with matching headstamps. But I also shoot a lot of mixed headstamp range brass. My latest comparison is with a heavy barrel 223 bolt gun. Mixed brass shoots between 5/8th and 3/4 inch. Carefully prepped Lapua brass consistently shoots between 1/2 and 9/16's. All of these are with the same exact load with 5 shot groups at 100 yards. I take mixed brass on our Prairie Dog hunts because I don't want to loose any Lapua. It shoots good enough to hit Prairie Dogs out to 300 yards or so. Thats about as far as we shoot, at the places we go.
The 223 is going to be more accurate then a 357, i hope.
I did a test with 5.56 LC mixed brass. Gave brass the full BR treatment. Did ok in my Axis.
Just trimmed a bunch yesterday.
Hey. I do the same thing. I really does make a difference. One thing I have never done much is crimp i
..........................Heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeere we go......................................!!
Same thing I thought. Went and got me some fresh popcorn...
I went and purchased Lee Factory Crimp dies for about everything I reload... then stopped crimping almost everything. lol
People are all over the Map depending which version you have... I love my 357 die but don't crimp rifle other than lead loads in tubes.
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