Very Interesting Result from Removing a Stuck Case

Just a little more info. I think my problem with the chamber adapter may have been I was shooting steel case Russian surplus. It worked great and I never noticed sticky extraction but being steel case it may have caused the adaptor to back out enough for me to notice chambering a new round was getting tighter. Since I removed it I have just used 150grn cast boolits in it and thats fine for what it is. One advice I read on multiple good source sites was to just use 300 Savage load data and that will keep you in safe pressure limit on the M1916 Spanish which is built on a M93 Mauser.
 
Check the bolt face before you ream the chamber. Not sure what it would take to open up the bolt face from .443 to .473.
 
Check the bolt face before you ream the chamber. Not sure what it would take to open up the bolt face from .443 to .473.
No need to. The bolt face is for a .308/7.62. None of these were made for 7,62x39. A barrel or adapter may have been added. My M1916/308 functioned fine. It even fed the small x39 from the mag if you put them all to the rear and pushed the bolt a little slower than normal. The rim got caught by the control feed extractor fine and ejected.
 
Mauser fan … one thing I’m sure of is there’s no sleeve. It chambers a 7.62x39 round just fine. But the bolt face is for a .308 and the rifling and bore are definitely .308. Will the gun perform well as it is? I’ll leave it alone if I can use .308 bullets and like the performance. What do you think?

I’ll be happy to take some pictures if you’re still curious.
I am curious as well. If you chamber a round of x39 will it extract the round when you open the bolt? I can somewhat believe a man might go to all of the trouble to rebarrel but I find it hard to believe anyone would do it knowing full well that they were building a frustrating single shot. Perhaps a new extractor claw could be fitted, but something is still off about the rifle.
 
I just inserted a 7.62x39 snap cap by hand and it ejected just fine. I will be shooting this in a match (if its shoots well enough) and loading one round at a time so the bolt face isn't an issue. I'm going to make up some x39 rounds and give it a try.

Mauser fan ... below are pictures of the only markings the gun has. Since the receiver and barrel have the same serial number there almost has to be an inserted chamber. One of the photos shows a step from the breech end of the barrel to the chamber itself. To the naked eye there is no "line" that indicates a sleeve installed but the photo shows it a little different. IMG_1187.jpg IMG_1182.jpg IMG_1183.jpg IMG_1185.jpg IMG_1186.jpg
 

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Thank you for posting the pictures I asked for that is awesome. You have an intriguing rifle and I cant help but wonder if it is an experimental chambering that Spain was playing with before finally deciding to go with the 7.62 x51mm Nato round. I read some where once upon a time that Spain entertained many different chambering when they were making the transition to the CETME rifle which is why they made the FR7 and FR8 for the transition period. That was done to train the troops and police too.

Jeremy
 
Looking at your picture of the chamber and magnifying it, it looks like a insert. They were very common so you could use the cheap 7,62x39 surplus ammo. usualy 1000rnds for 59.00 or so bucks. The Spanish went with the .308 CETME/Nato in a copy of the German G3 rifle. I never seen anything 7,62x39 in any of the bolt guns. Only 7x57, 8x57 and converted to .308.
 
Ok so I inserted a snap cap into the chamber to see if it will eject. In most cases the extractor just bumped the rim and failed to eject the cartridge. The bolt face is definitely for .308 win/7.62x51 NATO. Has Mauser ever made a rifle in a smaller cartridge that I could maybe steal an extractor? If the radius of the extractor (the part that "grabs" the rim) was .010 smaller I think it would work.

Thoughts? Ideas?
 
Hello Denny,

I'll be honest I'm at a loss for words. However there is a guy that I think that can answer your questions or steer you in the best possible direction far better than I can and you can find him on the forums castboolits.com or the handloadersbench.com. His screen name on castboolits is 405 grain and his screen name on the handloadersbench is boltlug. He is a really sharp guy and has helped me out tremendously. He is the one who made my barrel for the 450 bushmaster build that I am currently working on and he made the barrel for my .257 Bob and my 6.5x55 Swede build. All of the builds that he has made barrels for me have been for small ring Mauser's. Spanish Mauser's to be to the point. I recommend that you make contact with him.

Jeremy
 
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It just dawned on me! I have a .308 barrel, a removable 7.62x39 chamber, and a .308 bolt face. Pull out the chamber adaptor and it’s a .308 which is what I thought I purchased.

Now to get the adaptor out. I've had less than good results with stuck case extractors so I’m not real confident this will go smoothly.
 
Stuck bushings at times react to a tap started in and heat for the loctite. Tap with rod.
 
If it was put in with LocTite heat maybe required. Normally it takes about 400-450F to get it to release. It normally starts smoking once you hit the needed temp. If you use heat find a brass bush that fits the chamber body. Insert part way then pull back. The bristles trying to reverse will grab the sleeve and pull it out if loose.

If you tap you tap on the outside of the chamber away from the sleeve. If you hit the sleeve you can make it tighter.
 
I'm struggling to get the adaptor out of the barrel. I have to apply heat from the outside which, for barrel (RC32 max),doesn't concern me that much (I'd have to get the barrel awfully hot to mess of the temper) but the receiver has a hardness of RC50-55 and I have to apply direct heat to both parts. Trying to point the torch at the inside to avoid heating the receiver ring results in an over-rich yellow flame and then flame-out. I don't have acetylene (and I'd be nervous to use it if I did) so I'm out of ideas.

Any suggestions?

I might be able to tap the adapter and insert a bolt with a tube, washer and nut and brute force it out of there but that may be a fool's errand.
 
You need to heat from the outside, not inside. You want the original chamber to expand more than the inner so it will loosen. Once you get it hot you could hit it with some non flammable canned air cooling spray, up side down for liquid, Max cool shock. Heating it from the inside expands it into the outer, making it tighter, till every thing equalizes. If you can hit the insert down through the barrel once the outer side is heated it should come out.
 
With most steels you have to get above 500F-550F before you start changing the tempering in it. You should not need to get that hot. Do you have a IR thermal sensor gun? This will give you a non contact temperature of the surface. A heat blanket or cord could be used to wrap around it ti heat up. A way to spend the barrel while you heat it up will help to even the heat out, and minimize hot spots. Now if Loc-Tite was used your looking at 400-450F and it will start smoking when it gives up. Remember it's the delta between the sleeve and chamber. Heat on one, cool the other.
 
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